ARB Locker + ARB Compressor

So Im going to be adding an ARB locker and I'm wondering if anyone has installed a compressor and done the wiring from the locker to the compressor themselves.

According to the data I've been able to pull from the forum, Im can go with either the ARB twin compressor which runs $540ish or the Single one that runs $290ish

I believe i will also need to purchase the ARB manifold kit? Is this kit required for either one of the options i mentioned above? Im asking because in the pictures it looks like the single has the manifold included.

Another question is which compressor is best for my needs. I will be using it for the rear locker obviously but im also looking to use it to air up my tires (33s...for now)

Lastly, what do i need to run from the locker to the compressor?

Im having the shop doing my re gearing install the locker, and i may attempt to install the compressor, but then what else do i need to do? is it something that may just be better done by a shop?

Thanks guys, I tried looking for more info on here, or maybe someone who had done it themselves. But didn't have much luck so figured I’d reach out.

 

I ran one in a Dana 44 in my TJ. LOVED it!

If you're not doing the gear install but want to install the compressor yourself, do that before you send it to be regeared so they can hook up the airline and function check it and check for leaks. Run the airline(s) all the way down to the frame and leave the excess coiled up, capped and secured out of the way so they can just grab it, zip tie it and connect it. ARB uses a strange sized line, its like 5mm iirc, so grab a union or two to keep on hand for a trail repair. They're just push-to-connect so you razor the line, clean, connect and you're on your way.

I would highly recommend that if youre paying all that money to have gears set, then do a front arb as well. Locked front and unlocked rear is incredible for driving in deep snow and on the beach! For gracefully driving, that is, not when playing around. It tracked so nice on sand, you point and give it power and the front wheels aim you and the rears help. Not sure how tough the steering is on these trucks for that kind of usage but its something to look into.

I ran the actual, small arb compressor just for lockers and I would do it again in a heartbeat. It was relatively cheap, worked beautifully and I didn't have to worry about pressures or manifolds or any of that. I could get about 5 actuations before the compressor would have to cycle. The bronco will likely get the same with a second, different compressor for various air stuff. I also like the idea of the systems being isolated.

Driving the jeep locked/locked on sand and snowy gravel roads was like cutting cake with a chainsaw. It would surely do it, itll get you there but its messy and definitely not graceful. Locked front unlocked rear was as graceful as my various subarus in the snow, what an improvement that was. I've yet to drive a subaru on the beach so I can't compare to it but that'll happen one day, I'm sure, lol

 

I purchased items similar to this bundle package: https://mountainoffroad.com/collect...sor-and-1-gallon-tank-for-toyota-tacoma-gen-3

And, opted for the lead-in air line hose instead of having a custom braided line made up. Hose here:

$24 3/8 in. x 30 in. Rubber Lead-in Hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9UWSVQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A29YZPQ267IX8H&psc=1

ECGS carries the Manifold and the air up kit https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-282799-arb-accessories-recovery-arb-compressor-kits.html

Installing the compressor, tank, and manifold wasn't that tough, but the wiring and switches can be a pain. My electrician brother wired the compressor and switches for me.

I ended up using various fittings and a water separator on the tank too. The air line to the locker isn't that big of a deal, just some sleeve and pressure fittings. GL!

 

The high output compressor comes with the manifold attached and I believe the dual compressor does not. The air solenoid and in-cab switch come with the locker. From the compressor to the locker is just the supplied air line from the solenoid to the diff.

I'm in the middle of doing all this myself. Basically mount compressor, attach pressure switch, attach solenoid, attach quick fitting, I added a pressure gauge, run wires, mount relay, mount switches, plug everything in, rip out diff, install air locker, reinstall diff, run air line, go test. That's it!

 

Reviving this... I’m looking to regear soon on a trd sport 4x4 and might as well add lockers now instead of doing them later. Is it possible to install the arb front + rear air lockers without hooking up the air compressor and lock switches until later? And yes I know I wouldn’t be able to use them until they’re hooked up.

 

Yes you can install them before you have your compressor installed. Have them cap your air chuck until you’re ready to use it. Else... you’ll spew some very foul smelling fluid.

 

Any extra parts needed for that? I’m guessing the air chuck is where the compressor hose would be connected to?

 

When I had my front locker installed it stayed disconnected from my air compressor for about 7 months before I finally bought the manifold I needed. The installer just attached a piece of fuel line to the locker air line input and capped the fuel line with a bolt and clamp. No issues for those 7 months like that and the locker worked immediately after I plumbed it and first tried it.

 

Thanks for the explanation! Feeling better about this

 

Are you actually running an air ratchet off that compressor? What are you doing with it?

 

To be honest, I haven't used it much, but I like the option of having it. It was like 20 bux, and makes a super cool sound.

I have a rear mounted air chuck outlet too. The air gun and digital pressure gauge are priceless. More on my setup over here.

 

I've basically got the same thing just nothing in the back and no air ratchet. What's the benefit of the regulator? I've only been using my ARB for airing back up so please excuse my ignorance, ha.

 

The air regulator is a nice addition because it lets me control the pressure coming out of the tank (obviously). One useful example, I can hard line my ARB hose to a tire, set the regulator psi to 32, and let it run until it equalizes the tire at 32 psi.

 

Ahhhh, never thought of that. I built one of those quickflate kits, so I usually hit all 4 at the same time, ha.

 

If you're getting the differentials from ECGS, be sure to check the plug for the threaded ARB connector on the differential. ECGS taps/threads the hole, but they didn't tighten the plug, so when I went to change the gear oil, the plug was finger tight. Otherwise, differentials run fine with the lockers (as they should) without any air plumbed to them.

 

I'll most likely be searching for the parts separate if I can shave a few hundred off. RD111 front, RD232 rear, and 5.29s for 8.75" rear + 8" front. If I buy them separately, do they not come with the threaded holes?

 

@ShimStack posted a great writeup here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-arb-air-locker-diy-install-thread.692979/

See: seal housing and bulkhead install

Page 15 for the rear here: http://www.arb4x4.pl/instrukcje/blokady_mostu/ARB-RD129.pdf

 

@INT.EGRATED

 

I'd do everything and get the bulkhead done and run the air lines. Then just leave the lines tied up and capped off wherever you plan to install the compressor.

You should not be spewing gear oil. It can weep past the seal head seals over time, but if there's a ton then something needs to be corrected.

 

nice set up so for the rear lockers im still gonna need that solenoid and when you buy itself does it come with the connector that goes to the solenoid then a plug to the switch?