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Camburg Ball Joint UCA Install

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by nvdeserted, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. Apr 7, 2010 at 12:40 PM
    #1
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    For those of you that decide to go this route as I did here is how to install them yourself.

    First, read this thread about removal/install of the UCA, I'll fill in how to get the ball joint (b/j) out of your stock UCA and into the Camburg UCA. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/14507-total-chaos-uca-how-install.html

    My pictures suck but are good enough.

    What you'll need in addition to remove/install:

    Ball Joint press (Free at auto store; I got mine at Kragen: $210 deposit and no charge as long as you return it in 5 days)
    Needle-Nose pliers
    Flat-head screwdriver
    Hammer or small sledge
    Non petrolium grease (optional, but recommended)

    Begin: after the UCA is off the vehicle, first remove the retainer wire from the rubber boot with the needle-nose. Be careful we'll reuse this.
    [​IMG]

    Now you have this off:
    [​IMG]

    Now just work the rubber boot off with your fingers, We reuse this too:
    [​IMG]

    Now take the retainer clip off, If ound a flat-head most useful, just work one end up and walk around it untill it's off, We reuse this too:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now the fun part (sarcasm) using your ball joint press, press the ball joint out of the stock UCA. The ball joint press comes with instructions and is pretty easy to figure out. Note: Once you have the cups on the ball joint and the C-Clamp it tight, just hit the tightening bar straight down with a hammer until the b/j pops out.
    [​IMG]

    Now wipe down the b/j and put a LIGHT coating of grease around the Camburg UCA where the ball joint fits into it, this will help install of the b/j.

    Put the b/j into the Camburg then using the b/j press, press the b/j all the way down. If you cant put the retaining clip into it's groove then you need to keep pressing; make sure the b/j is straight while doing this. Note: I found it easier to use the cups and a hammer and just tap the b/j into place. Notice each UCA is labeled 'Driver' or 'Passenger' side up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Re-install the retaining clip and pack the b/j with grease. (I use BelRay Waterproof grease)
    [​IMG]

    Then pack some more grease into the rubber boot and install it. Note: it helps to twist as you push to get it on. Then work the retaining wire back on to secure the boot, be careful not tho puncture the boot.
    [​IMG]

    Now go install your new UCA's.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Apr 7, 2010 at 12:50 PM
    #2
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Also, when you get the kit there are no instructions.

    First you'll need to install the zerks: they are self tapping so first begin threading straight in by hand and then tighten all the way down with a socket.

    Next install the rubber bushings, they just press in by hand.

    Now grease the hell out of the insides of the rubber bushings. The kit comes with grease but I used my own. Fill in the gap between the bushings on the inside, and fill those little channels on the inside of the bushings too. Save a little grease to lube the outside of the bushings where the large washers will sit. You might want to wait to install bushings/grease until after the b/j has been pressed in just so you don't get grease everywhere, or get crap to stick to the grease while handling.

    Last thing to do after everything is on the truck: install the ABS wire clamps. Note: during install make sure the wire goes over the top of the UCA, not under it.
     
  3. Apr 7, 2010 at 12:56 PM
    #3
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight Well-Known Member

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    what do you see as advantages to owning these UCA's over others?

    *edit: im not trying to start a uca butt hurting, I'm just curious of what the OP thinks.
     
  4. Apr 7, 2010 at 1:00 PM
    #4
    straycat241

    straycat241 maXXXed out mid travel

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    airaid intake, jba headers, jba exhaust, DMZ enginecage, King 2.5 coilovers , 1.25camburg uca's, total chaos lca's, shock hoops with Icon 2.5 piggybacks, camburg 4.0 Spindles, Defined engineering SUA, King 2.5" Shocks w/Reservoir, King 2.5 Bumpstops,shocktacobumper,moto metal 951's, compartment locks, blackgrill,Glassworks fenders front and rear,ViS racing glass hood,PIAA 510s,hella 500's,black rebadge,fabtech spare tire holder,tailgate delete,mudflaps delete,cobra 19 ultra iii
    they are a cheaper alternative to uni ball styled ones with more strength and clearance than the stocks
     
  5. Apr 7, 2010 at 1:01 PM
    #5
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight Well-Known Member

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    Do they correct alignment like the camburg uniball uca's?
     
  6. Apr 7, 2010 at 1:07 PM
    #6
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    The b/j UCA is $260 cheaper than its big brother the Uniball for starters.

    Second the b/j UCA needs no maintenace whereas the Uniball needs to be cleaned, lubed and can squeek if its dirty. The Uniball is a racing product and while strength and performance are great, it wasn't designed with considerations for high mileage daily drivers.

    Third, it corrects caster after lifts just like other aftermarket UCA's.

    Fourth, I think it looks cooler than the comprable Light Racing UCA.

    After speaking with Camburg and some other folks (and online research) the Camburg b/j allows for as much travel gains as its beefy brother the Uniball.

    The difference is in the strength of the joint between the b/j and the Uniball design. The Uniball is MUCH stronger than the b/j because it was designed for off-road racing. IMO the b/j is plenty strong for most of us and 90% of my miles are on the highway anyway; I never worried about the b/j strength before...

    I'm yet to test them out completely, just put them on yesterday. So far it has already ended my wandering front end (before alignment), feels smoother/quieter, and looks nice. I did take travel measurements of the stock UCA and I'll compare them later this week once I can get out and make some new measurements.

    And if you're not afraid to do it yourself it is the cheapest option ($70 less than LRs). If you have them professionally installed it will cost the same as the Light Racings in the end.

    I got mine through Wheelers Offroad in about 4 days.
     
  7. Apr 7, 2010 at 1:09 PM
    #7
    straycat241

    straycat241 maXXXed out mid travel

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    airaid intake, jba headers, jba exhaust, DMZ enginecage, King 2.5 coilovers , 1.25camburg uca's, total chaos lca's, shock hoops with Icon 2.5 piggybacks, camburg 4.0 Spindles, Defined engineering SUA, King 2.5" Shocks w/Reservoir, King 2.5 Bumpstops,shocktacobumper,moto metal 951's, compartment locks, blackgrill,Glassworks fenders front and rear,ViS racing glass hood,PIAA 510s,hella 500's,black rebadge,fabtech spare tire holder,tailgate delete,mudflaps delete,cobra 19 ultra iii
    These arms correct the suspension geometry by increasing much needed caster which improves the handling and allows for a wider range of alignment adjustment
     
  8. Apr 7, 2010 at 6:58 PM
    #8
    PreRunner

    PreRunner Well-Known Member

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    i dont mean to hijack but why do my camburgs look different? are mine installed correctly? my ball is higher up ...

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Apr 7, 2010 at 8:05 PM
    #9
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Oh wow dude, those things are trashed! who installed them?

    J/k. yours look different because you have the UNIBALL. The ball joint has a flat top and sits in the bottom, the 'ball' is actually under the contol arm with a b/j, not in it like your uniball setup. Basically that's why yours are stronger than mine... that's where your extra $260 went.
     
  10. Apr 7, 2010 at 9:58 PM
    #10
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Dude, you know haw many times that went through my head writing that! At least I put a '/' between the letters.:D
     
  11. Apr 21, 2010 at 8:31 AM
    #11
    Doc.SS

    Doc.SS ︻╦╤─

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    would these work with OME springs..?
     
  12. Apr 21, 2010 at 8:40 AM
    #12
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    NV. thanks for the perfectly timed thread.

    one question. your truck is relatively new, i assume low mileage. why didnt you just change the BJ?

    again, thanks.
     
  13. Apr 21, 2010 at 5:14 PM
    #13
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    2 reasons: 1st, the reason these are the cheapest UCA option is because you can re-use your stock ball joint, so $avings. And 2, since my truck is new/low miles I figure why replace a perfectly good balljoint when there is lots of life left in the originals still.

    After having these on for about 1k miles I'm real happy with them... I don't notice them so that's a good thing, and my steering feels great. No complaints.

    I still need to post my before after droop/tuck improvements. It wasn't as much as I had hoped for; not because of the UCA but my bumpstops/LCA are holding them back. At full droop and tuck the UCA still has tons of room to move but other components are now the limiting factor. They definitely feel like they compliment my coilovers much better, it's like the articulation is more 'fluid' and natural feeling. Plus I just flat out like the look.

    I'm still looking for a good 'dust cap' to put in the tubing above the b/j just for looks; after getting in some mud that thing packed up fast. It won't affect the b/j but it'll just bug me, plus it would look better IMO if there was a black cap there instead of just the b/j.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2010 at 6:17 PM
    #14
    aficianado

    aficianado Well-Known Member

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    THANKS!

    i'm going to do this.
     
  15. Apr 21, 2010 at 9:38 PM
    #15
    surfrat

    surfrat Well-Known Member

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    icon coilover, total chaos UCA, allpr expo, icon 2.0 rear,wet okole
    now the all time question...can you press in a uniball to these BJ arms when the BJ goes bad...
     
  16. Apr 21, 2010 at 9:49 PM
    #16
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    Good question. I haven't actually looked closely at a uniball setup; you can buy replacement uniballs for $140 at Wheelers and I'm not sure how it sits in the UCA, maybe a visit to the machine shop for some races and you'll be all upgraded...?
     
  17. Aug 15, 2010 at 6:27 AM
    #17
    Superwhitetaco10

    Superwhitetaco10 Member

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    Do yours squeak at all? Did you grease the outside of the rubber bushings before you installed them? I did, and I get a squeak from them. I wonder if it is because I greased them.(I used the camburg grease supplied for that.
     
  18. Aug 15, 2010 at 5:05 PM
    #18
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    No, mine have been super quiet. Did you make sure to heavily grease the ball joint and pack the b/j boot full of grease? Dry ball-joints get squeeky/loud real fast.

    I did grease the outside flat-lip where the large washers sit, but I did not grease the outside diameter of the bushings where they sit inside the UCA. I don't think it would make a difference either way.

    BTW if you decide to regrease stuff, pretty much any will do. I use BelRay waterproof grease on all my stuff and it works great.
     
  19. Jan 28, 2011 at 7:06 PM
    #19
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    Sorry for finding the thread late... nice write up, so rep to you sir... my question is about caster and camber...

    I read that these use the stock b/j, which I like, (who doesn't like b/j's :D) and that they allow for the much needed caster after a lift.

    What is the max positive degree of caster these UCA's allow and can you get a 0 degree camber setting after alignment?

    I'm torn on which ones to buy after reading the light racing UCA with their adjustable ball joint can boost camber to + 2 degrees... how do the Camburg b/j UCA's measure up?
     
  20. Jan 28, 2011 at 7:19 PM
    #20
    S.B.

    S.B. Well-Known Member

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    Its the same as the uniballs (caster wise). The diference is in the joint.
     
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