Cooling issues? Not anymore

ah engine got it. I was thinking transmission but overall my engine has been sitting around 185-190 as well.

 

I cannot speak from experience, I added the GM fan with Lingenfelter controller, and deleted the mechanical fan. But I think adding a pusher fan is fairly easy, plenty of room for it behind the grille. The time will be spent on wiring and deciding how to control it. I am sure there are persons here that could help.

To me, Ideally, you would want a reasonably small fan, need only be single speed, run off a relay. The challenge is to have this fan run only with AC demand, so need to find 12+ signal that exists only when the AC is active. Tapping the power to the AC compressor only might work (as someone else here pointed out), this would cycle on and off often, and the cycles may be too short for the fan to be effective. The compressor cycles with pressure in the system, and with a hot condenser, the pressure rises very quickly; condensing of the gas generates a pressure drop {as gas shrinks to become liquid} and requires rejecting heat; the HOT condenser slows the rejection of heat from the freon. The fan probably needs to run longer than the compressor.

To be an intelligent control, you would only want this fan to run, when the free-air through the condenser/radiator is not adequate. Example that on a cool day with the defroster on, or on a warm day but you are traveling at 60mph; in either case there is no need for this fan to be running; the electric draw (=gas consumption) and wear to the fan being downsides. This may be why the Toyota pusher fan TSB ties to the the truck in two locations under the dash; likely is ECM controlled (not verified, I did not look into identifying the circuits being tapped into).

Maybe a T-sensor switch, fastened to the out line of the condenser would be the simplest intelligent control. Would require specific knowledge or testing to determine target T, but seems this would work very well, and eliminates the need for an AC +12v signal wire; the T-sensor would provide all needed information. I had planned to trigger a relay off the compressor wire, to increase the variable fan speed for AC; but after conversations here, I think I like the T-sensor on the condenser outlet better, so I may work out how to do this. Will share what i learn, but being in the N-East, I am not sure how soon.

 

@Torspd I am struggling a bit with these wiring drawings, seems the pressure must be high enough to close the relay and turn on the fan, and seems that unless the AC Amplifier pulls in the first relay, then there is no power available to the the fan relay.

But have more questions than answers: So what conditions does the AC Amplifer pull in the first relay? Is the pressure switch stock on the truck already? Where is the pressure switch located? Does this take into account if there is already enough free air cooling.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-condenser-fan.239576/

 

I just re-read (more thoroughly) the 62 page TSB for AC not working in high ambient temperatures, and found the following as Note worthy, with regard to importance of free-air through the radiators, and controlling a fan for AC, only as needed.

- In this TSB, Toyota provides part numbers, for 3 "Body Hole Plugs" and a strip of gasket. Apparently they get that the large body holes thru the radiator support (some have a pipe through them) are enough to allow considerable free-air to bypass the radiators, and for this TSB suggest to seal them, or seal them around the pipes. They go further and also seal the front edge of the Belly Pan with a foam tape gasket. Body plugs are called "Cover, Packing" on the parts list provided.

- In this TSB, they connect in the cabin, on both the left and right sides (right side is to a pin on the AC ECU, Left side is in connector J/B 1F, which may be at the ECU?), and add a relay. They do not provide enough detail to understand how this is controlling the additional pusher fan (of TSB), but it provides a clue that it is running the fan intelligently, only when conditions are not currently adequate; as for after installation testing, the TSB instructs to start the truck, turn on AC at lowest fan and temperature setting, then to place a piece of cardboard between the condenser and radiator (stop air-flow thru condenser) and see that the fan starts in less than 2 minutes. This sure seems like it is not simply using ambient temperature and AC-switch to decide fan necessity, but are somehow monitoring the AC performance, to decide; which sounds great to me! I have to wonder if the 2016 and newer trucks, AC pressure sensor is an actual T-sensor feeding the AC-ECU, instead of a temperature switch typical of older models. Will need to get a copy of the wiring diagram to see what it tells.

In the TSB install, they add wires at the two locations, but also instruct that there may already be wires at those pins, and if so, those existing wires are disconnected and abandoned. I need to get my hands on the wiring diagram, to see where those abandoned wires go, and see if that provides a better understanding of how this will control the fan.

All of the parts for this TSB are separate (is not provided as a kit), so I am currently leaning toward buying the body plugs (though I already made my own), wire harness, relay box and relay, and then using the relay to increase the fan speed on the variable speed fan, by inserting a relay controlled resistor in parallel with the Lingenfelter sensor (tricking the sensor into thinking the coolant is hotter than actual; when the relay is energized). The only real advantage of the wire harness is that it has the correct pins for the two interior wire connections, instead of trying to identify the correct socket ends. Plus the slick factory look for the added relay/relay box.

 

Toyota refuses to sell the parts!

I purchased a subscription on AllData, and looked up the pins where this TSB connects under the dash. For my specific truck, the pins are not identified. The TSB also does not provide a wiring diagram, so no way to tell what is happening in the harness. So decided to order the harness and body plugs. But Toyota refuses to sell the parts without VIN and explanation as to why the parts are being replaced. Will not even sell the body plugs! I declined to provide this additional information at this time (saved me $400), so if I care to proceed, I will need to investigate directly off the truck.

Does anyone have information as to what the pins are where this TSB hooks to the truck? Would like to understand the behavior of this TSB fan control.

 

I was overlooking the available wiring diagrams, and the Mexico wiring is included., showing the cond. fan of this TSB. does not tell mush of the story, but clearly the output to the cond. fan is a dedicated pin on the ac controller, and that controller has a cabin thermistor, an ac pressure sensor (instead of a switch), and also reads the coolant sensor. I have to guess from this, that the output to activate the fan, is intelligently controlled. Likely turns on this cond, fan, when the pressure sensor is high, but probably at a threshold lower than the cut off for the compressor clutch; and may also consider cabin T, and or fan speed setting in this logic. this output goes directly to a relay, to activate the cond. fan, and is active LOW, the relay has 12+ directly from one of ign2.

Very straight-forward, so i am working to identify the wire terminal, and use this output, AC controller, A14- pin 16, to provide switched ground to a relay, and have the relay increase the speed of variable speed fan.

 

Can anyone identify a part number for the wire terminal (Socket) necessary for:
- Connector A14, location 16
- Connector 1F, location 16

Pretty sure these are both socket terminal ends, not gold plated, but I have been searching AllData documents, and though it has a guide that says to use the connector body number to identify the connector body and the terminals, I apparently do not have access to that information. Does anyone have access to part numbers that can look up theses wire terminals?

 

So what happened with this product? It’s no longer on his website, is it still for sale?

 

Buehler?? @Deo taco

 

+1 here I'd be interested as well

 

I remember when this kit first came out. I was thrilled. Some loved it and some hated it. I’ve done electric fans on all my vehicles that never came with them. 60”s, 80’s and 90’s vehicles. Most vehicles have Electric fans now days. I always got better throttle response and feel. Less drag on the motor. If done correct there’s nothing wrong with electric fans. I’d love to see this kit come back.

 

If anyone is interested, i purchased this kit, and didn't use the 3D printed mounting brackets, so I would be willing to box them up and ship them. You would need to get your own hardware and everything else. Would entertain $45 with shipping for the set. PM me if interested.

 

That's actually a pretty good deal!!!

I ended up coming up with my own solution to mount the fan because @MESO has nevwr responded to my PM's and never replied back to emails with regards to purchasing his mounts. I was going to make a post up tomorrow actually of what I came up, I'm just about done with the full install. I'll wait a few days to make my post to give you time to sell..

currently making the fan connector harness at this very moment..

 

@MonkeyProof

So I did not use the provided 3D printed brackets for two reasons; it mounted the fan too close to the engine, making belt changes an unnecessary challenge, and that the Tacoma shroud is about an inch larger in diameter than the GM fan shroud, and I did not like that gap.

Also; seeing your pic, and strongly suggest you invest in a ratcheting crimping tool. The proper ones are typically $100+, and are specific to brand and size; but even a lesser, universal ratcheting crimp tool will provide tremendously better crimps than the one in your picture.

The ideal result of crimping terminals, is to create a "Gas Tight Connection" between the terminal and the wire strands. This dramatically increases longevity of the connection, keeping oxygen (and moisture) out of the crimped area. To accomplish a Gas Tight Connection requires extreme leverage, and the widest possible crimp width. The pressure necessary must compress the round wire strands, into pentagonal strands, by pressing the strands into each other, within the crimp.

I have great success with an inexpensive crimper on a variety of different connector terminals, and using a magnifying glass, to see exactly how the tool is loaded with the crimp and wire. A little experimenting and examining the outcome, will dial in how to repeat a nice crimp. wanted to provide a link, but the one I use is no longer available. Best I can do is say that it should be ratcheting type, and the die should include a two in one crimp, such that it crimps the gas tight ferrule to the wire strands, and crimps the ears to the wire insulation, in a single stroke. The one I use has two different terminal crimp sizes on the same jaw. This would not work for all different crimps, but is has been universally useful to me; your mileage may vary. Pasting the following address, does produce results, if you are interested in more info.

Very happy to see that you are working on a solution for yourself and others, because I also experience great benefit to having installed a variable speed electric fan.

HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S?ie=UTF8

 

Great advice and very awesome explanation of what a proper crimp should accomplish!

Those in the pic are used for stripping insulation. I originally intended to use crimpers that I have for Weather Pack connectors but quickly found out those weren't suitable. So I busted out the old trusty Harbor Freight Hydraulic Crimper. It was a bit cumbersome to use on those connectors, but I got it done.

Edited

 

Anyone know of a way to shut off the fan when the engines not running without having to pull the large fuse, ie i want to listen to the stereo while parked when the engine is still hot?

 

Add a relay with a switch to the red 12v wire that powers the module. That's going to be my solution for turning off the fan for deep water crossings..