Cooling issues? Not anymore

Spouse

 

That would be my question:

 

100%!

 

We have Homer Simpson as a great example of that..

 

He might have been partly right?



Looks like a 2021 Bimmer SUV?

 

If the torque output is limited, then I'd expect a mpg increase if this is indeed more efficient.

 

you can't see it.....you gotta feel it!

 

you guys cant look at it that way. the torque command is from driver request. if the dirver say i need this much pedal to go 75 down the highway the truck makes that happen and provides to the torque to do so. but with an engine driven fan that torque required to go doen the highway thru the air and turn everything has the fan torque added to the system. cant go 75 down the highway WITHOUT the fan spinning. the loss is always there. if its deleted and the e fan doesnt need to run not there is ) parasitic loss and the engine commands less to go 75 and burns less gas.

 

I’ve read this whole thread to this point and I am definitely interested. It’s 120 out here regularly and I could use the extra cooling. During recoveries and general wheeling, things get HOT.

 

I would say im safe to leave it full time. I live in the desert.

 

Yes and it definitely fixed it for some people. I’m adding in a larger all alum radiator

 

be very careful there, a radiator only works once are is passed thru. alot of aftermarket companies do NOT design fin density per the vehicle and can create high pressure zones in FRONT of the rad with little air passing thru. those work if you have a very aggressive say e fan to back it up. i have done the math on single pass vs dual vs 3 and there is almost no gain from dual to 3 bc of the slow down of the water system due to the restrictions in the rad. bc you have taken a single pass rad with say 30 routes for the water to pass thru and now have 10 and it has to do it 3 times.

 

Have you seen this thread? This radiator has been very successful
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...mance-radiator-for-our-trucks-finally.539151/

The increased capacity makes a massive difference.

I personally modified the oem fan clutch to pull more air, at the cost of robbed horse power I’m sure. I also have a pusher fan for slow situations. Truck never gets hot at idle, yet runs super warm at freeway speeds in 100+ degree temperatures. The increased coolant capacity should help a bunch.

 

I have not seen the rad but I can tell you that no oem runs pusher fans bx it blocks air at highway speeds. Thats actually hurting your system. The air at speed does not have time to get around the fan motor and into the rad fins it covers. So that creates a dead spot in the rad at highway speed

 

no oem runs a pusher fan? That’s not true. There’s an entire toyota TSB to add a pusher fan to the ac condenser.

definitely don’t disagree with you on the fan blocking the air though. Definitely not an ideal set up.

 

Thank you for posting this as this is exactly what I’ll likely be upgrading to! Pound for pound even a two-row aluminum radiator will dissipate heat much more effectively than one with plastic tanks will.

 

Can you provide ANY support for these statements. I may be wrong, but these kind of statements often sound good, but have no basis (often times).

I would love to see some kind of data (airflow data, thermal imagery, something) because I am having a very hard time justifying that it is dramatically different front vs rear...

Convince me.

 

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/ho... puller fan on the,it is behind the radiator.

 

While not the data points your looking for, its a pretty old company thats been doing performance for a long time.
https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_choose_an_electric_radiator_fan/

 

pusher fans ride almost on the rad fins. that means air at 70mph has to go around the motor, with momentum and turn back behind it and get routed into the fins that run straight thru the rad.