CV-joint drive shaft rebuild help

My Taco is a 2000, single cab, 2wd, auto trans. I don't think the CV yokes were standard on these, but previous owner installed a 6-inch lift - and maybe changed the drive shaft.

Regardless, the double cardan is Koyo "KC1720 KD" Anyone know the size of the replacement U-joints in that? I've read they're not the same as the standard u-joints in the rear.

Thanks in advance, and I've read a few tutorials on how to do this, but if you've seen one that particularly for Tacos, link me.

 

Some single cabs did come with a Double Cardan (CV) one piece shaft (rare) or yours could have been "built".
In any case it looks as if what ever you have is Toyota, You will have to accurately measure the diameter of the joint caps and determine if it has outside or inside clips. There are also 2 centering ball shaft diameters. My 99 xcab (2 piece shaft) had the inside clip type marked Koyo #KC1720AD and the larger ball shaft (known as a "pin"). There seems to be no hard and fast rule for what models came with what and when. Just sort of a guideline that Tacomas up to 99 or so had the inside clip larger joint and later years had the smaller inside clip version. The "pin dia." seems to be even more vague.

This should help, post 7 & 10.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/273119-double-cardan-joint.html

 

From the "1st Gen DIY" thread:

CV Axle Replacement/CV Axle boot replacement:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=113
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...dd-tacoma.html
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...s-2nd-gen.html

http://vimeo.com/3089355

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bTJRzrv4iA&feature=player_embedded

 

we are talking about CV drive shafts not axles.

 

Oh, gotcah. Well if you CV's give out too, you're covered

 

Thanks man. Figured I'd have to measure them and see myself, but since it was gonna snow today, thought I might order the parts so they'll be here by the time i get the damn thing taken apart.

I'll post the measurements/replacement when I find them. Also, it's Koyo KC1720AD double cardan, not KD as originally posted.

 

Do I have to replace the ball joints if they're not bad? I can't say for sure until I get it off but I think just a u-joint is failing. I read somewhere that the ball shouldn't be messed with unless it's failing. Thoughts?

 

Leave the ball in place unless you are sure it is fubar, a bit of slop between the ball and it's race is normal. The OEM part is better than the aftermarket replacement and with a little lube, lasts a long time.
Your DC joint should be identical to the write up (inside clips).

 

Thanks Dirty Pool! Driving smooth again. Followed your steps along with the 4x4wire tutorial and no problems. My double cardan u-joints were same size as the writeup, just as you suggested.

 

@

I’m 10 years too late to the discussion but hoping you’re still active. Where did you get the u joints for the double carden? And they weren’t the same size as the rest of your joints were they?

 

Click on OP’s name and it’ll show you the last time he was on here.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help!

 

Sorry, a little bit late myself.
Be prepared to encounter ignorance, complete BS and flat out lying from "lesser" parts houses/driveline shops. Every single part of the driveshaft is available and can be replaced.

I found "Neapco" (USA) at my local driveline shop but didn't care for them so I put the original joints back in. My issue with the DC was with the grease pressure relief valve for the centering ball, the joints were good. I ended eliminating the valve but that's another story.

Any searching should be mostly by brand/part# and or dimentions as few houses list a Tacoma application, see write up and they are not the same as the end joints. Now that was back then, these days there are some manufacturers that do list a Taco app. Look thru the thread towards the end for some of the "more recent" sources. If you do the "ball kit" there is now a choice of a steel or bronze/brass race. Factory is the bronze/brass and I would go with that. Keep in mind that there seems to be no rime or reason to which (of two) diameter "ball stud/needle bearing" is in any given model/year/engine combo.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/273119-double-cardan-joint.html