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DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by XXXX, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. Sep 7, 2011 at 4:01 PM
    #1
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4).

    For LCA BJ replacement see here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...oint-replacement-2005-tacoma.html#post3691540

    This is for removal and replacement of a OE LCA bushings ONLY.
    I am not covering the removal of OE components that are in the way of bushing removal and installation.


    <<<A front end alignment is highly recommended>>>


    Tools required:

    Common Sense
    Ball Joint press
    adjustable wrench for above BJ press
    <<Specialized Ball Joint adapters>>
    Flat head screwdriver
    Hammer
    Vise Grips
    PB Blaster or similar
    Mobil 1 grease or similar
    Wire brush or similar
    Gloves
    Safety glasses
    Jigsaw with 5" wood blade
    Hacksaw with metal blade
    Drill
    1/4" - 3/8" wood drill bit
    Dremel or similar tool with a cut off blade
    (2) OE Toyota bushings # 48655-04020
    (2) OE Toyota bushings # 48654-04040




    Moog is also making newly designed serviceable LCA cams & bolts.
    DO NOT BUY!!!! KIT HAS ISSUES!!! WILL UPDATE WHEN MOOG FIXES THE ISSUES. REAR BOLTS DO NOT FIT. FRONTS WORK FINE.
    SEE HERE FOR REFERENCE
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...placement-2005-tacoma-4x4-15.html#post7664525
    (1) MOOG K100128 Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit ($ 33.79 PER)
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    SpEcIaL THANKS GO OUT TO BRUTALGUYRACING FOR FINDING THE MOOG GOODIES AND BEING THE GUINEA PIG TO INSTALL THEM.



    It's YOUR responsibility to wear the proper PPE and use common sense. This could prove dangerous if the tools required are used in manners they were not designed or intended for. Do not apply torque to the tools past their recommended limit.


    Removal

    Tip: I soaked all bushings in PB overnight before starting. I was unable to press my bushings out so this is the best way I could think of. If you can press yours out do so.

    Tip: Do not mar the bushing seat. Most likely it's rusted to crap already so no need to further damage it.


    [​IMG]


    Step 1: Drill a starter hole in the old rear bushings

    [​IMG]

    The front bushings already have room



    Step 2: Using a jigsaw on it's slow setting cut the rubber to free up the center. You might need a hammer to tap out the center of bushing like I needed to do for the fronts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Step 3: Insert a hacksaw and cut until you are through the bushing sleeve. Make sure you are cutting on the seam of the bushing seat. Do NOT cut to far.

    Tip: I cut until I saw rust. Make sure you cut evenly...not like the saw is angled in the below picture - that was for reference only.

    [​IMG]



    Step 4: Using a Dremel cut the collar of the bushing exactly where you cut the inside. Then bend the outside of the collar with vise grips. The slight bending motion should free up the bushing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Step 5: Tap the bushing out with a hammer and flat screwdriver

    [​IMG]



    Step 6: Clean the rust and grit from the bushing seat. At this point I sanded and painted the LCA.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Step 7: Grease up all the bushings and seats.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Step 8: Insert all the bushings. All four should go in 90% leaving only 1/2" to be pressed.

    [​IMG]



    Step 9: Press in the new bushings.

    Front

    [​IMG]

    Rear

    [​IMG]


    Done

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Ball Joint adapters used:

    Front

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Rear

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Old bushings

    Rear

    [​IMG]

    Front

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
  2. Sep 20, 2011 at 11:33 PM
    #2
    Rich Beauregard

    Rich Beauregard Well-Known Member

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    Great info! Thank you!
     
  3. Sep 20, 2011 at 11:35 PM
    #3
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Subbed
     
  4. Feb 29, 2012 at 8:32 AM
    #4
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    No wonder you said to cut it...makes perfect sense now. I only removed the bolts. Not the whole bushing.
     
  5. Feb 29, 2012 at 8:48 AM
    #5
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3 of my 4 were seized and with as much water and mud I play in I figured what the hell Ill change the bushings out. Once I got them out I'm glad I did replace them. They were in sad shape due to all the rust.
     
  6. Feb 29, 2012 at 8:51 AM
    #6
    maxamillion2345

    maxamillion2345 Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.

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    Tuner.
    What prevented you from pressing them out?
     
  7. Feb 29, 2012 at 8:52 AM
    #7
    NYCO

    NYCO ┌∩┐‹(ಠ_ಠ)›┌∩┐

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  8. Feb 29, 2012 at 8:52 AM
    #8
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Probably would have been a good idea for me to do the same. Judging by how bad my bolts were, I can bet the bushing sleeves looked the same as those above. I just didn't think about going that route though, at the time.
     
  9. Feb 29, 2012 at 9:00 AM
    #9
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    They were welded by rust. I was not able to press them out. Believe me I tried. I tried using the same tools I used to remove the LCA BJ with no luck.

    I did everything I could think of for almost a week including all thread and washers.

    Then one day I was sitting on my porch looking at them and thought to myself why not cut the fuckers out :D
    Turns out it was super easy and quick to cut them out so I wrote this up in hope others would find this easier then pressing.

    If it weren't for your thread I wouldn't of even tried to do them myself :D
     
  10. Feb 29, 2012 at 9:04 AM
    #10
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    When you try to do it on your truck then you can say that lol

    First thread is somewhat usefull second one has nothing new in it and links back to first thread by you :rofl:

    I would recommend using whatever method you can to get them out, but I would like it to be known I tried pressing them with an impact gun, torch, and a press kit after soaking them in PB for a week and got no where so using large sockets and all thread is a waste of time for ones as bad as mine.
     
  11. Feb 29, 2012 at 9:05 AM
    #11
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Pabst Blue Ribbon on ice

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    Nice write up
     
  12. Feb 29, 2012 at 9:16 AM
    #12
    BigRedToy

    BigRedToy BRT

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  13. Mar 16, 2012 at 12:13 PM
    #13
    tacocolin

    tacocolin Well-Known Member

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  14. Mar 16, 2012 at 2:05 PM
    #14
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    lol...your truck delivered me my skids and bed rails once upon a time :spy:

    that thing is mean.
     
  15. Mar 16, 2012 at 3:36 PM
    #15
    tacocolin

    tacocolin Well-Known Member

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    Everything Kevin from ATO did on his... and then some. LOL
    Thats funny, such a small world on TW. LOL

    So let me get your opinion, how does mine look compared to the new, I was a moron and thought I was missing one whole side, but I just snapped a picture of a new 2012 and it doesn't look that much different.

    New...Click for full-size image (1024 x 819)
    [​IMG]

    IMG_0502 by GIMMETHECASH, on Flickr

    Mine-----

    Click for full-size image (1024 x 768)
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 16, 2012 at 5:08 PM
    #16
    XXXX

    XXXX [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Look good to me, but it's the cam bolts that are the issue and they can't bee seen. When they seize they rotate with the suspension and usually bend a tab. You have to mark them then loosen and check. In the salt belt states it doesn't hurt to clean and grease them regularly. Mine were shot before 70k due to lack of maintenance and regular swampings. If they are seized and you can't loosen them here is an option but it sucks http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...-replacement-2005-tacoma-4x4.html#post3691528
     
  17. Mar 29, 2012 at 11:02 PM
    #17
    silver taco

    silver taco Well-Known Member

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  18. Sep 3, 2012 at 11:37 AM
    #18
    precoma

    precoma Well-Known Member

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    i just took a video of my rear lca bushing on the driver side because i have a bad rattle on that side when i hit a bump. is the lca supost to move at all on the bolt because my lca would pull all the way to the front of the bolt then to the back and when i would hit a bump and the rattle would occur the whole lca would shift to the center of the truck then to the outside, im assuming this is my problem and its the source of my rattle. but i dont have flattened cam alignment tabs so its like the whole lca is shifting while the bolt stays in place. so my question is do i need new bushings or cam bolts or both ???
     
  19. Sep 3, 2012 at 11:46 AM
    #19
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

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    Upload the video if you can but it sounds like your bushings are shot. The rubber should allow for some flex but it shouldn't be that noticable and certainly shouldn't be making noise. Was anything loosened recently, like for an alignment? The alignment shop didn't properly torque mine once and it made a clunk noise until I torqued down the bolts.
     
  20. Sep 3, 2012 at 11:47 AM
    #20
    precoma

    precoma Well-Known Member

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    no not recently but i will check that the video is uploading right now
     
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