Driveline Part

Was under the Taco earlier today, doing some inspection after reading up on the double-cardan u-joint replacement and... I see this carrier piece that has rubber in it and it’s almost shot. I looked at schematics and can’t find it. I have an 03’ 3.4L Tacoma w/ extended cab (4x4). Also, if anyone’s replaced this item... do I have any advice?

 

I think that's a little more than almost...


That's your center support bearing or carrier bearing for the driveshaft.

I have replaced one before and my advice is take it to a reputable driveline shop, not a mechanic, but specifically a driveline shop.

The U joint will need taken apart and then a large nut will be removed to slide the joint half off the driveshaft so that the bearing can then slide off.

The inner bearing surface is often seized to the shaft.

You will need a new bearing and it's a good idea to do your U joints while you're there anyway.

This is a major PITA and it's a good idea to take it to a specialist and have the work done so that everything remains in phase and balanced to prevent vibes.

But yeah, that thing is toasted done been past time to replace it, surprised you don't have bad vibes and a clunking on takeoff and switching to reverse.

 

So it’s a carrier bearing? Yeah, I’ve got no vibrations. Guess I’m lucky. What sucks is... I’m out in the desert. Not close to a driveline shop.

 

I found this on Rock Auto... this is on the more expensive end of $75. Is this the correct part?

 

Any shop can do it, as mentioned replace the ujoints while you're at it.

TIMKEN is a good brand.

If you DIY, make sure to mark all shaft alignments.

 

Looking at yours it might not be as bad, that 6074 should be the spicer part number but you may want to call up O'reilly's to confirm. It should be Spicer as the OEM, even if you buy from Toyota it's just an overpriced Spicer.

Looks like you could get away with just unbolting the U joint from the shaft flange there and then unstakeing the nut and recording the number of turns for removal, the preload is important IIRC, pull the flange (mark it and the driveshaft so they stay clocked together and thus balanced and then you might get lucky sliding the old one off and the new one on reinstalling and restakeing the nut.

There's a thread on here in the 2nd gen section about filling the "rubber doughnut" with construction adhesive or sealant for added strength and longevity as that vibration mount rubber always fails long before the sealed ceramic bearing.

 

Timken makes good bearings, if that's what RA says fits for your year then it should be correct.

Typically the difference between a 4WD and 2WD driveline components is nothing more than the 4WD stuff usually has more sealing lips and typically comes with grease fittings for the U joints. 2WD usually does not.

 

2WD is a slip yoke into the transmission as well.

 

I was more referring to the U joint spiders and bearings but you are correct, there's also naturally a length difference as there's no transfer case, and again length differences between AT and MT shafts. So 6 total shafts, 2WD AT and MT 4WD AT and MT and 5 Lug AT and MT.

That said if you have a TRD PreRunner first gen (2WD with the E-locker) it has a bolted trans flange and a 4WD style driveshaft components.

The double cardigan is great for preventing vibes and increasing tolerance, wish Toyota pit the DC in the 2nd gens.

 

I actually skip grease fittings now. My xterra needed front joints and I went out of my way to avoid the greaseable. I went napa heavy duty oddly enough, was too impatient for a splicer.

I've found sealed is better in my years at toyota, and toyota manufacturing agrees, even the 2nd gen updated ujoints are non-serviceable.

I always find the greaseable joints have 2 failed caps and the 2 primary grease caps are ok.

 

This carrier bearing isn’t hard at all to replace. I certainly didn’t use a driveline shop. There’s a write up somewhere on this site for how to do it. Go buy yourself the proper sized large socket and knock it out. I changed this and the transmission mount on my 01 at the same time. Both are easy to replace and helped me address some vibrations I was having at the time.

 

I might be wrong since I haven't take the time to install it yet and its just sitting on the shelf collecting dust but shouldn't this fit just fine?

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing Compatible with Select Toyota Models 1995-2021

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPFD2E

There is a thread on it here -
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/best-center-support-bearing-for-2002-tacoma.689848

and also here -
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-genuine-oem-carrier-bearing-for-79.583219/

 

I found one at Autozone for about $50. It’s the Duralast version. Jonesbt, doin remember what size socket is required?

 

I don't know about the 1st gens but I want to say mine was a 27mm.

For mine I had to stick it in the bench vise and use a big breaker bar to get the center nut broke loose, then use a three jaw puller to pull the bearing inside part of the bearing off.

 

Here is a pretty good video of the process. It’ll give you a good idea if it’s something you’re comfortable trying.
https://youtu.be/cw3qeQkKnc8

 

All the ones I changed over the year if your careful and mark things I never had problems .

If you pull things apart and have different parts laying at random I could see problems could happen.

 

Great video, yeah that looks like a can-do job for me. Just gotta be mindful of making markings and what-not. Thx for the help!

 

I put that Spicer CB on my truck almost 3 years ago. Been 100% trouble free. Comes with a Toyota P/N stamped in the rubber and says its made in Japan. Id bet money that Spicer is the OEM manufacturer for these for Toyota, I know on the 2nd gens that they are.

Do your self a favor and do not buy anything but that Spicer bearing or one from a Toyota dealer. While Timken makes good bearings, the rubber housings are a different story. Ive read on here more than a few times of those Timken and other cheaper carrier bearings having the rubber rip apart prematurely.

Also, pick up a set of extended length (non ratcheting) metric wrenches. I found that a long 14mm was the bees knees for getting the torque needed to break the bolts free on the flanges. A socket + ratchet and a ratcheting wrench wouldnt fit on them, atleast in my case.

 

Did the center bearing today (finally)! Job went fairly easy. I was surprised how much smoother the truck runs... didn’t think it was too rough before, but I guess perspective is everything. The nut that secures the the end cap of the propeller shaft is all haggard now. Anyone know it’s proper nomenclature? I need to replace it the next go around. Didn’t replace any ujoints, they all seemed fine. Just greased everything. Even separated the rear propeller shaft and manually greased the splines. I feel way more secure knowing the driveshaft isn’t jumping around freely anymore.

 

It’s called a staked nut, I believes there’s a write on this site with the part number.