Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Folks have moved the PS reservoir a few inches to fit a tray there. I relocated the air duct and put a Wirthco tray in the space below it. I have a 2007; so, I don't know how different your engine compartment looks like. The other problem with doubling the two batteries together is the extra weight - you have the gas tank, driver, steering, and battery on the driver side, with not too much counter weight on the passenger side.

 

Panel: Renogy 100watt monocrystaline, pwm charge controller

Meter: G.T Power Rc meter inline between solar panel and charge controller

Load: Fully charged house and starting battery. Starting battery load of Ignition turned to On position with radio, fan, and headlights on, House battery load of a "go pro" and 12v led work light.

Test 0: Full sun

Result: 12.97v, 5.28a


Test 1: Partially shade panel (~20%)

Result: 13.18v, 0.35a


Test 2: Fully cover panel (~15%)

Result: 11.57v, 0.00a voltage changed with different positions of tarp but no current was recorded.


Test 3: Fully cover panel (~30, 60, 90%) and check output amperage/voltage

Result: no reading, I changed the position of the tarp which made little difference. Sometimes the meter would light up but not have enough power to function.


Conclusion:
A fully covered (percentage) panel will not produce enough voltage/current to power a device or charge a battery.
A partially shaded panel will produce voltage but may not produce enough current to power a device or charge a battery.

 

Has anyone found any reliable info on replacing the voltage limiting diode?

I've heard that you can buy something on eBay from Australia for $50 but I can't find anything.

 

For a higher voltage or because it went bad?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-1grfe-alternator-rebuild-mud-cleanout.453757/

 

I'm researching how to increase the voltage output so I can fully charge my AGM batteries. There's a lot more too it than just increasing the voltage, but changing the diode is key.

 

My head is hurting right now from reading this thread. So much good info. I do have 1 question. If I run my arb fridge off of my single battery, and plan on running my rig everyday, do I need to worry about killing my battery?

 

no sir, but we do recommend having a deep cycle battery

 

My eventually goal is a dual battery setup but should I go it. Deep cycle for now? My truck is 6 months old so I don't want to buy a new battery if I can avoid it

 

if youre not going to get a deep cycle, i suggest to carry a reliable jump starter, just in case.

i have my whynter fridge plugged in on two or three day camping trips with my deep cycle battery without issues..and the whynter has more draw than the arb..

no issues.

ive never tried it on a stock battery.

i suggest a jump starter, as mentioned above.

 

Without getting into how deep is deep (subjective), regularly discharging a starting battery will eventually kill it. Starting batteries are not designed to take a discharge like deep cycle batteries.

 

So what battery do you suggest?

 

A starting battery with a solar panel would probably make a half way decent setup.

 

The least expensive will probably be an Optima Yellow Top but there are any other choices. In general an AGM type is recommended.

I am quite happy with my dual Northstars but Northstars are not inexpensive. Maybe Ramon @ramonortiz55 will do another (#5) GB on them soon.

 

Do you still have your spare battery in the bed?

 

Those with an ML-ACR, quick question...
Thought the cooler weather I could hear the audible disconnect within 15 seconds of turning the truck off.

I've noticed the last few days it doesn't disconnect, even after 15 minutes or so.
The red led on the remote stays on as well. I have to imagine this is also maintaining draw on the battery.

Any idea what would be causing this? Is it normal?

 

That's normal. It means there is no draw in either battery and the voltages are stable. They only disconnect when something draws from on battery and there is no charging current.

 

So even when the truck is off- "no charging current" it will stay on for a while?

 

Yes, it's all automatic. If it stays in the voltages are equal on he batteries.

If you want to test it, keep your truck off and turn on your high beams. They will disconnect soon after.

 

@Kennedyusmc what ^^ @Iggy said x2. Completely normal.

 

Alright I can finally contribute to this thread.
I used the blue sea ML-ACR with the switch. I have this mounted on the palfrey battery cage for the starting battery. I have a unfused run from the starter battery to the relay.

My second battery is mounted in the bed. I decided to put the fuse (150amps) at the second battery. Here is a picture of the battery mounted in a tray that I made using some 1/4 inch aluminum.
I use my traction boards to keep stuff from hitting it and keep everything protected.

Now, I have solar setup in this as well. All that is in the cap tool box. So my solar panel is mounted on the roof rack and I used a marine deck grommet to run all the wire into the cap. I used a trailer wire harness which has a cord with 4 12 gauge wires in it. I have one common ground and 3 wires. One of the wires is for the solar setup and the other 2 are for lights.

solar and wire run

the switch panel I put together with the solar controller to the left and the terminal posts to the right with my 100 amp breakers for the auxiliary fuse panel the inverter.

In the cab of the truck I have the blue sea switch, a dual battery monitor that was suggested in this thread (thank you), and a usb thats live all the time. All of this is mounted in @Iggy switch panel from iggycorp. Really cleaned everything up and made this a hell of a lot easier.

Here is a picture when the truck is off, and the solar is charging both batteries.

With the truck on

The wire I used was all 1/0, with marine grade lugs that I crimped on.