Elocker axel swap

Another option, is what I did, install a Detroit TruTrac LSD (gear-driven rather than clutch-driven) into the 8.4 axle. Not selectable, but doesn't need to be. Can't tell its there while on the highway, and improves off-road traction automatically. No buttons, no air-lines, no solenoids, no clicking, no chirping, no friction modifiers.

Cost me around $700, for parts and labor (removed the diff myself to save $).

 

Sounds like this is getting way complicated. Shouldn't he be able to buy a complete drum to drum e locker axel w the same gear ratio and bolt that on, no problem, abs or no abs? If it was an abs locker couldn't he just leave the abs sensors un wired?

Someone just made a write up for wiring their e locker axel with no harness, that made me think this swap can actually be really straight forward.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/e-locker-swap-write-up-easy-way.390461/

 

I just did the swap on to my 4cyl Tacoma. Here's how it went, and hopefully this will be helpful to you!

I bought the gears and 3rd member from a 4Runner, and found an abs housing from a 2004 Tacoma. I took it to a shop to have them assemble the gears into the axle housing. I also picked up a matching front add diff, because the new axle would be going from 3.58 gears to 4.30.

I ordered a plug and play harness from 12 volt guy, and he was very helpful and all around great to deal with. Also, the harness was only like 70 bucks! The abs axle does have a different e-brake set up than the non-abs axle, so you will have to deal with that. Other than the e-brake, it is a simple bolt on setup. Do not try to put non-Abs axle shafts into an abs axle. It will piss fluid (been there, done that). The hardest part was getting the front diff to work as a manual hub set up. Super easy once I figured it out, and I can discuss that as needed. Hopefully this helps. Reach out if you have questions.

 

And yes, you can leave the abs unwired. The hardest part is the ebrake connections are about a quarter turn from the original e brake location. I make simple aluminum brackets, and they kind of work (still fiddling with it).

 

It's tough to find an elocker axel with 529s in it. Most are 410s or 430s that I've seen, otherwise it would pretty much be a bolt on/off deal. Which is why I would have to swap my gears, or buy new ones for the v6 housing since I don't think mine will work from the 4 cylinder. I still don't really get this whole ABS shit, but I talked to one of my buddy's the other day and he said it doesn't matter what elocker axle I get, that you can just plug the sensor holes or something. That's what he did to with his tacoma with an elocker.

 

I think I'm gonna put one of those Detroit true tracs in the front, since I have manual hubs I'll only lock them when needed anyway. And with the rear being locked, hopefully I won't need to lock the front up as much. I'm also getting my warn 8K fabbed up with a receiver option front/back this weekend.

 

Jacob do you have a link to that plug and play harness from this 12volt guy? The one from low range off road looks really nice but it's $180. Looks like it comes with everything you need.

 

And I keep getting different answers on whether or not I can use my current 529 gears out of my 4 cylinder 8.4" into the v6 8" elocker axle....6 of 1, half dozen of the other. I have a friend who can do the gears, he said it's just time consuming but he can do it. He's done all the fabbing and SAS his 98' tacoma, threw an elocker axle in it. He knows quite a bit, but he's still not 100% sure on whether I can use my gears out of my truck now for the new v6 elocker axle.

 

Here ya go:
http://12voltguy.com/toyota-e-locker-panels_1.html

 

I see. The gears are the challenge. Hmmm. I honestly couldn't tell you whether the gears would fit one way or another. Wouldn't it make sense that gears that fit a 3rd member for a larger axel housing (8.4") to be too big to fit in a smaller axel housing (8")? Maybe not?

Usually someone has recommended SASing the truck at this point.

 

Not sure of your location but here is one with 5.29's https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/5791055928.html

*edit* just saw your in Oregon

 

I'm pretty sure you can swap the gears into the V6 housing, the method would be getting the new 3rd member gasket for the e locker axle and laying over the opening of your current axle. trace the parts that are different and grind/cut out those areas. I think you need to have access to a welder because I remember one part that needs to be built back up...you'll have to research that one... difficult: yes.

with 5.29's I'm almost thinking your so over-geared that its causing traction issues. a lot of guys have said you want "wheel spin" to keep traction going, otherwise the low gearing just bogs you right down. fine for crawling up boulders but for trail running, I've heard gears like that can cause problem

Like others have said, don't worry bout ABS. all it has to do with is plugs that go in right near the drum and measure a gear thats pressed onto the axle. The axles cant be mixed because of that provision for the ABS gear

FWIW, I went with the low range harness, and yes it was expensive but the quality was spot on. It saved me from another day or two of making one, which with decent wire and and buying the connections from toyota almost works out the same... I could go back to work sooner and that made it worth it to me

 

I don't want to SAS this truck yet...will be a long while. I just dropped $2K into ICON 2.5 coilovers and UCAS. Rock crawling/climbing is the least of what I do.

Thanks for all the extra insight guys. Definitely keep you posted on what I figure out and the progress.

 

I've read and heard it's better to be over geared then have bigger tires and less gearing. Less chances of breaking stuff that way I think. I can just idle around in 1st gear usually on trail, seems to do alright. I'm on 33x12.5s right now and it's a little over geared for them which is why I'm putting 35x12.5s on, should help bring my RPM down a tad to where my engine isn't pissed off and screaming.

I haven't checked out that 12V harness yet but I know low range sells good stuff. $180 isn't bad for what you're getting really and if it will save a bunch of time then I'm all for that.

I do have access to a welder, torch, all that stuff, I just don't know what I'm doing with it. A friend of mine is helping/doing the work for me.

 

Couple nice things about the low range harness: they use factory colored wires, so if you have to look at the FSM to diagnose electrical issues, you wont end up confused on what color wire goes to what. locker anytime mod is complete the moment you hook up switch and power. no need for 4X4 ecu or any of that extra crap, its a straight shot from switch to locker motor. connections to locker motor are Toyota factory plugs, so they're sealed and mate perfectly, usually the ones that come with the axle are busted up anyway, at least mine were. also, LR includes the locker breather tube in their harness, breathers are your friend!

I def agree 35's will love that gearing more, should get you some more ground clearance too! GL man

 

elocker gears are interchangable with the pre taco diffs but not the 8.4 taco diff you have.

going with 35s the 8.4 is a better choice because it is overall stronger diff.

 

I just did a bunch of reading on pirate4x4 and they say the 8.4" is still technically an 8" so was curious as to why or how the gears aren't interchangeable? I read something about carrier bearing might be the only thing you'd need to have the gears work from my 8.4" 4 cylinder into the 8" elocker.

I would love to just make the elocker work on my 8.4" since it is suppose to be stronger then the 8" Detroit true tracs don't guarantee anything over 33" tires which is kind of a bummer going to 35s now.

What doesn't make sense to me why the fuck toyota puts the elocker in an 8" and makes a whole different axle. Why not just keep it the bigger stronger 8.4" and have 1 axle for all tacomas. Especially if you're wheeling, one would think the elocker is obviously going to see some abuse/use offroad so why it doesn't have an 8.4" is beyond my comprehension I guess. Would make my swap a lot easier and give me everything I want. It seems like everything I do or look at or have the option, there's always some type of downfall or draw back.

Examples, sure ARB makes an 8.4" locker, but you have the chance of more something going wrong with lines and seals, plus no one wants or knows how to set it up around me. Price and compressor is negligible considering what you get. Good is I an keep my 8.4". Bad is if something goes out on trail you're pretty well fucked. Selectable is nice because it's still my DD.

Two, the elocker can manually be engaged/disengaged if the switch breaks or whatever on the trail, so more en likely you can still get out and home. Downfall of this being I have to swap out my stronger 8.4" axle with an 8" while running the bigger 35s this go around. Selectable is nice because it's still my DD.

Detroit true tracs can also still use my stronger current 8.4" axle, but it's not really a true locker, and they don't warranty the guarantee for the locker on anything over 33s.

I wish I could just put the elocker itself in my 8.4" and call it a day, not worry about gears etc, but that doesn't seem like the easy or feasible route unfortunately.

 

What route would you guys take all things considering??

 

i prefer auto lockers and so i installed a no-slip locker and have no regrets. its my only vehicle as a daily and its honestly un noticeable %98 of the time. you can install yourself with no gear setup aswell. the warranty is good for use of tires up to 35". i plan on getting a trutrac for the front diff when the time comes.


BUT... if it had to be between the e locker and arb id choose the arb.

 

This thread makes my head hurt.

1st gen Tacoma's have two axles, the "8.4" and e-locker. The 8.4 came in either ABS or non abs. The e-locker to the best of my knowledge was ABS only.

You can easily swap a complete (drum to drum) e-locker axle inplace of the 8.4. you can build your own wiring harness, or you can buy a pre-made harness. Since your truck doesn't have ABS, you would just leave the abs sensors on the axle housing unplugged.

The e-locker is based on the old "v6" 3rd member from the pre Tacoma era. The 8.4 is more like the old school 4cyl 3rd. However the 8.4 has a girdle that runs between the end caps. Some say the e-locker is not as strong, I can not comment on this, as I have never broken either. I did get my FZJ80 e-locker axle from a junk yard and the housing was pretty rusty, but the e-locker has worked flawlessly.