Shadow of Intent, Eubeenhadd's T4R and adventures thread

This will be a build thread/repair log for my new-to-me T4R. Vehicle Deets: 4.7L V8 AWD/4WD, 262k miles. Beige fabric interior in decent shape for the age.

Current state:


As purchased, 8/4/2023


Stuff it desperately needs to be safe to start going places that aren't just work:

Tires (done, Sumitomo Encounter AT in 265/70R17)
Fluids, mainly brake fluid(done, OH MY GOD IT STOPS), but it will need diffs/tcase/trans to ensure that stuff isn't ancient, plus coolant, oil.
Suspension vibe and noise diagnosis/repair (diagnosed, needs sway bar links, ball joints, shocks)
Halogen bulbs.

Repairs I'd like to make for my own sanity/light free dash:
TPMS fix
Emissions fix (fixed upstream sensor, now get P0420/P0430 code. Next steps: capacitor/resistor mod, minicats)

Stuff it needs to be ok to start wheeling with my friends:

sidestep removal (done)
GMRS and CB Radio
diff breather extension (done)
Drift stitch and fully affix the front bumper
onboard air, or at least a compressor
skid plates front to rear, probably coastal offroad
rock sliders, probably 4x Innovations
OME 885/895 springs(done!) and 90000(done)/60004 shocks

Long term ideas I want to write down for future thought when the money comes:
Steel wheels, probably Pro Comp 51 or 97's
rad rubber splash guards? Mine are falling off.
Rear bumper w/tire swingout and jerry can storage if I can find one that doesn't kill the tow capacity. I might need to DIY this to ensure it's beefy enough while staying reasonably high clearance.
front bumper (Hidden? hybrid? grill tube? Full tube?) and winch. I might go hidden winch/recovery plate instead of front bumper, but that doesn't help approach angle and frankly isn't as cool looking.
Torsens/lockers front and rear
Long Range fuel tank?

Here's a little SEO for those asking these questions so hopefully people find answers:

Do I need UCA's for OME 885? Yes, no, and maybe. In my V8 SR5 4WD I was able to align the truck to factory specs with the factory UCA after installing the 885 springs and 90021 shocks. The 265/70R17 rubs the UCA and frame at full lock on the stock SR5 Wheels. Spacers or aftermarket wheels should fix that. If you have a V6, you might be too light to align it because it'll sit higher. If you have different wheels/tires, it may or may not rub.

Does a 265/70R17 tire rub on a stock 4th gen 2005 SR5 4runner? Yes it does. The truck rubs the upper control arm and frame when reversing and turning out of parking spots. I suspect the factory +30 offset wheels are the reason. I will be replacing these wheels with something closer to a 0 offset and using wheel spacers to test those fitments.

 

You've got a great base to start building from. Looking forward to the build!

 

It's really stunning how decent it is. It might've seen 2-3 trails, but was otherwise visibly pretty well maintained.

 

The front end rattle appears to have been a loose skid plate. I just need to get the brake fluid sorted and I'll be squared away for trips out of state.

Sumitomo Encounter AT 10 mile review: they ride well, aren't loud, and look cool. 265/70R17 rubs the mud flap very very lightly at partial lock at low speed, which is easy to tolerate

 

Debating doing a little solo adventuring/duoing of this area, don't mind me, this is just the easiest way to use my work computer to store info where my phone can get it later.

 

Putting another event on my list of to-do's
https://windrockpark.com/events/appalachian-toyota-roundup

 

Re:torsen front diff, I'm putting this here for my future reference:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/8”-ifs-clamshell-w-frs-torsen.561017/page-6#post-18488626

also

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/8”-ifs-clamshell-w-frs-torsen.561017/page-13#post-25881543

Edit 2:

When in doubt, search used deals and ebay. OME 885/895 springs ordered used at reasonable prices, which means all it needs is shocks and an alignment.

edit3

$20 MOOG K80380 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link for Toyota 4Runner

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA4G5M/ factory type extended rear sway bar links

Edit 4: it needs sway bar links front and rear, UCA ball joints, and the shocks appear OEM and quite old. So, I'll extend the rear sway bar links with 3rd Gen ones, replace the front with new.

edit 5: another link for my future reference. https://jdfabrication.com/collectio.../products/copy-of-fj-cruiser-lower-arm-pivots

ANOTHER LINK

 

Replaced my radiator cap and upstream driver side O2 sensor. All I want to have done before ATR now is fresh brake fluid. Suspension mods will wait until after.

 

Threw some refrigerant into the system to hopefully permanently address what I hope is a small leak. AC is blowing cold again which is good.

 

My buddy convinced me to throw the new springs in and get it aligned this weekend. So I guess I lifted it with OME 885/895's.

It's way taller. So much taller.

 

That's how it should sit when mostly stock IMO. Looks great.

 

Uploading an inspiration pic from HCWatson997 over on T4R.org. Main inspirations are the diy minimalist snorkel and the hybrid style coastal offroad bumper.

 

Adventured to Windrock Park for ATR. Kept up with some built rigs on difficult blues and had a blast. After-action needs: CB and GMRS radios, rock sliders, skid plates, an air compressor and recovery points. Pictures:

 

Love this! Glad to see you are actually using it as a 4WD vehicle and having fun with it! Great job!

 

It was a lot of fun to take a 95% stock vehicle down those trails and be basically no worse for wear, and the kudos of wheeling a mild vehicle with wilder ones was nice.

 

You're brave without sliders! We went down a bunch of blues and there were several spots I would've caved in my rockers if not for my sliders. I even drug my driver side one over a ledge at one point, rock chips flying!

 

It was a gamble for sure, but this group had some seriously skilled spotters. I know I set the frame down at one point, but it was pretty simple driving otherwise due to them. I do need to replace my factory "skid" now as it's hanging by a single bolt, but that's no great loss.

 

I think we only spotted on 2 or 3 spots. Most of the time we all knew what lines we wanted to take and went for it.

 

Replaced my rear O2 sensors. Finally, no codes, no need to carry a tablet to clear CEL's for ATRAC function.

 

Highly recommend picking up an Ultraguage. It will read and clear codes, as well as let you know when there are pending codes, codes that haven't caused a full CEL yet but eventually will. It can also provide you information such as real time temps and MPG. Tons of functions available, all read from the ECU.

https://ultra-gauge.com/ZC/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=224

I had been getting pending O2 sensor errors which would only pop the CEL in cold weather. Warmer weather, they were only pending. I'd already replaced the O2 sensors and with over 330k miles on the truck and after talking to a friend of mine about it, replaced both exhaust manifolds/cats. No more pending codes and no more CELs.