Fuel gauge issues again I know

So I know there are many threads on this and I believe I've read them all. My fuel gauge does not work- at all. It quit working about a year ago for a couple weeks and then it started working again. About a month ago it stopped working again. When I say it doesnt work, when you start the truck the needle doesnt move at all. It stays way down there below E. So I replaced the fuel pump assembly with a new one. New fuel pump and lever arm etc. Still didnt work. So then I read several posts about the gauge cluster being faulty. I found a place online that repairs your gauge cluster and sends it back to you. Sent it to them, put it back in, still doesnt work. So today I figured I would test the wires going back to the fuel pump. There is a connector down in the left kickpanel that the two wires to the fuel level are at. An orange and a yellow with a black stripe. I tested from the connector to the gauge cluster and got continuity from both the wires. Then I took the fuel tank down Again to get to the wire connector to the fuel pump. I got continuity from both the wires from the kickpanel to the fuel pump connector. So the wires are good and not broken. Also tested all the fuses in the cab and under the hood, and checked/cleaned the ground from the battery. What is left to check?

 

Check the resistance?
Or do a quick test to see if you can get the gauge to move

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2008-tacoma-fuel-gauge-only-reads-3-4-full.738806/#post-26300022

Thank @Dm93 for the info

More useful stuff here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gas-gage-on-dash-shows-empty.729840/page-2#post-26003303

 

Ok, I went and filled the truck up, and did a resistance test. I got 5.1 ohms on the wire connecting to the back of the cluster harness. So the level assembly and wires are working as should. I took the cluster out again and made sure the needle wasnt stuck or anything and it wasnt. So i have narrowed it down to the cluster itself which I already sent in for it to be repaired. I guess they rushed through that or something. I will have to have some words with those people. Thanks for the help. I was very frustrated this afternoon.

 

It started as an intermittent problem that has come, gone, and returned, to stay this time of I read that correctly...
New fuel pump w/sending unit. Dash gauges sent out for repair.

Take a very close look at the connectors on the gauges and behind the kick panel. Are all the pins set into the connector body the same? Are any pins bent, shorted out in the connector bodies?

If the terminals are dirty, use either a pencil eraser or a matte finish business card to clean any terminals. Use nothing else or you'll damage any finish on the terminals. If you do, cleaning these will become a regular thing.

This stuff works great! I have an 80's vintage arcade game and this stuff, along with some hand cleaning, saved a couple hours repinning a 40 conductor edge connector and several molex connectors.

CAIG Laboratories D100L-2DB Electric Cleaner

$18 CAIG LABORATORIES DeoxIT D100L-2DB Brush Applicator, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 7.4mL, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBVN2

I don't know the particulars of the resistance readings for the sending unit as I didn't read the attachment in the thread linked above. You could however, get a potentiometer (volume control), and use that to simulate the sending unit. These come with three terminals. Use the center and 1 outer terminal, to simulate the sending unit. I think one rated 5-10 watts would be heavy duty enough to not burn up during your test.

Good luck.