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Fuel Pump Replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by havoc5788, Sep 14, 2015.

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Is main Fuel line to Fuel pump canister made to break free?

  1. If breaks replace main fuel line.

    2 vote(s)
    100.0%
  2. Leave main Fuel line Attached.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. Sep 14, 2015 at 5:47 PM
    #1
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    I have started Disassembly of my Tacoma fuel pump.After releasing pressure through the fuel filter I started to go to work on the Fuel line.I noticed it was very tight to break loose when I tried I had to use 2 torque bars against each other to break loose.Do they use lock tight on these lines or something?Now IM wondering if I should Finished torque loose on line and break loose or leave the line on there in fear of a cross thread.

    Snapshot@2015_0914_165014.jpg
     
  2. Sep 14, 2015 at 6:46 PM
    #2
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    that nut in the picture is meant to break free. no worries. but you should use a flare nut wrench to do so. this tool minimizes chances of the nut being stripped and the whole line needing to be replaced.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Sep 14, 2015 at 7:32 PM
    #3
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    Yea I was wondering if there was A tool TYSM.
     
  4. Sep 15, 2015 at 9:50 PM
    #4
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    :popcorn:


    +1
     
  5. Sep 16, 2015 at 12:31 PM
    #5
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    I have Fuel Pump out today.Testing The Sending unit with A new Meter got from Walmart a TEK.Im not sure witch wires to test as I can see it has 2 wire to 4 connections.
    I was seeing if anyone can clue me in on the testing procedure for gauge if im doing it right.

    Snapshot@2015_0916_120802.jpg
    Snapshot@2015_0916_120818.jpg
    Snapshot@2015_0916_121601.jpg
     
  6. Sep 16, 2015 at 7:31 PM
    #6
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    2 wire for fuel pump. 2 wires for sending unit (fuel gauge) use that meter and check each connector pin and wire for ohm (resistance) rating or (better) continuity. that way you know what wire goes where. Also, use dielectric grease on the connector up top side of the pump housing before connecting, don't use it inside the fuel tank!. it will make sure the wires don't fry themselves.
     
  7. Sep 17, 2015 at 8:47 AM
    #7
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    I have made test this morning and meter seems to be real jumpy.
    I'm going to try cleaning connectors and test for better continuity with brake cleaner,and school.
    I was wondering if anyone new were to get the full rebuild of sender unit.Auto stores here only sold pumps.
    I went ahead and bought this pump Below for rebuild of this unit.

    (http://www.carparts.com/details/Toy...=g&c2cid=e566dbb6-bc6a-431f-8aee-4c3910f6e132).
     
  8. Sep 17, 2015 at 11:33 AM
    #8
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    isn't really any rebuild kits. no need. so long as your fuel level gauge works, there's nothing to rebuild. just swap the pump and you're done.
     
  9. Sep 17, 2015 at 1:50 PM
    #9
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    I did clean and retest now the Floater reading is A higher reading when it crank half way.it went over 176 to 196 then craps out back to 1.Now i'm shopping for A New Sender unit can anyone help me find one on sale I can check out.I Seem to be having trouble getting one.
     
  10. Sep 17, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #10
    Bullfrog 75

    Bullfrog 75 Well-Known Member

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  11. Sep 17, 2015 at 3:40 PM
    #11
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    Is Toyota the only place with Sending units.Been looking for 2 days now.
     
  12. Sep 17, 2015 at 5:15 PM
    #12
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    All I need is the wire float thing not the whole canister.
     
  13. Sep 17, 2015 at 7:02 PM
    #13
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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  14. Sep 17, 2015 at 10:18 PM
    #14
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    The float is moving a variable resistor, not much you can do to fix it. Im not sure if the sensor is fully submerged on these cars, but i wouldnt play around it if that was the case, as there is voltage flowing through the gasoline on these parts.

    One thing you can try, there is a body harness plug directly under the drivers seat, you can feel the lump in the carpet where it is. It was caked with grease when i opened it up. I cleaned it out with DeOxit D5 spray, this solved most of the dancing gauge issue. It still wobbles a bit, but not nearly as much as before. Pics in my thread.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...etting-spark-and-fuel-fried-ecu.387148/page-2


    Found this on ebay, part 8332080308

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-8332...NIT-/121531544043?hash=item1c4bd831eb&vxp=mtr
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
  15. Sep 17, 2015 at 10:29 PM
    #15
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    All vehicles have their senders submerged in gas in the tank. but there isn't enough voltage to cause a spark that can ignite it. ignition coils need to increase voltage to the spark plugs to over 100,000 volts just to ignite the fuel.
     
  16. Sep 17, 2015 at 10:45 PM
    #16
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    I am aware of how senders work, and of the process of magnetic fields, voltage spikes, and ionization. I was also tested on it during my ASE and Smog Check exams.

    A bad solder or connection, overheated component, im just one who doesn't like to take liability for something thats soaked in gasoline.
     
  17. Sep 17, 2015 at 11:32 PM
    #17
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven Yo

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    With the millions of cars on the road that have the senders in the gas tank, im sure one of them would have exploded if that design was even the slightest bit faulty. There's nothing you have to worry about especially when gasoline needs a 14.7:1 ratio to burn properly. Im sure there is very little oxygen in a gas tank. Much less than stoichiometry.
     
  18. Sep 18, 2015 at 4:46 AM
    #18
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    Thats awesome.
     
  19. Sep 18, 2015 at 6:24 AM
    #19
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    In the fix all you have to do is take the cover off and clean it then oil A little.Were looking to get resistance back after cleaned.I will also check Harness today Caligula TYSM.:)
     
  20. Sep 18, 2015 at 1:13 PM
    #20
    havoc5788

    havoc5788 [OP] Active Member

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    My Cleaning is through today.I plugged in sender and gauge went straight back up.With the reading after cleaning I think it may still act up.I will finish rebuild when parts come in and post results again when through.

    Snapshot@2015_0918_084136.jpg
     

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