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Help with a wiring issue

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by primer, Sep 4, 2011.

  1. Sep 4, 2011 at 8:07 AM
    #1
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I need some wiring / electronics help.

    I just installed some power running boards. The price was high - but I like the look better than my old steps when they are up and they are much more effective at getting people in my truck when they are down. I am organizing photos for a write up soon.

    I want to add this switch:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TQMU5C?tag=amazonquery-20

    In one switch position I want the steps to work as they do normally - (open a door and the steps deploy and lights come on, close it and they both reverse)

    In the middle position I want the system disabled.

    When I put the switch in the third position I want the steps to deploy (+/- lights) whether or not a door is open.

    The first two seem easy. I can insert the switch in the power wire from the battery, or in the ground wire (?). That will allow me to turn the switch on and off.

    Deploying at the flip of a switch is more problematic. I can think of ways to make it work - but it requires some assumptions on my part:

    The current signal to deploy comes from the door ajar wire on each side - if I assume that signal is 12v, and that 12v is what runs to the motors - then I could just wire another power wire from the battery through the switch and directly to the motors.

    Unfortunately I have no idea how safe those assumptions are. As currently wired the wiring from the door ajar wire does NOT go directly to the motor, it goes to a control box - from there wiring goes to the motors. Put more plainly, I suspect my assumptions are incorrect, and that my plan could damage the motors, or worse - my truck.

    For reference these are the involved circuits in the truck:

    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ileaf/06toyewd/06toypdf/ewd/2006/tacoma/h/em01d13.pdf

    And the installation inst for the steps can be found here:

    http://www.amp-research.com/products/truckaccessories/powerstep/powerstep-applications/


    Interestingly, the steps are wired to work with a double cab and mine is an access cab. The wiring that would normally trigger deployment when the rear doors are opened. That isn’t hooked up in my truck - because you can’t open the AC rear doors without the front doors being opened. Sending a signal (12v?) through the rear door wires to the control module should deploy the steps.

    IF I can make that work then I need to find a different way to turn the steps off. If I cut them off at the power source then I can’t deploy them at will with the switch in the other position.

    I’m sure there are mistakes in my reasoning. I also realize I may not have all the information needed to make these decisions. Hoping someone can help me at least ask the right questions to make this happen.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Sep 10, 2011 at 5:50 PM
    #2
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    [​IMG]
    Your going to need a Double Pole Double Throw switch.
    Middle is OFF
    On side is Normal OP
    Other side will be DOWN.
    Make sure you re-use the doide wires correctly.:rolleyes:
     
  3. Sep 10, 2011 at 5:56 PM
    #3
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Caribe's got it!

    Actually, since you have an access cab you are only using one of the two trigger wires. You should be able to use the SPDT switch you have linked to and just wire it like Caribe has pictured, minus the side of the switch with the red/black wire (rear doors trigger)

    Edit: I read that wrong. Caribe corrected me below.

    The instructions you linked to specify that the truck's door triggers are 12V negative, or ground. They are not positive (hot) power.
     
  4. Sep 11, 2011 at 8:37 AM
    #4
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks both of you. I actually had a EE buddy of mine help me out. His diagram looks identical to this. Was planning to get it done today - but the switch I ordered is a little too deep. Ordering another and hope to be able to install next week.

    I'll post when it's done.

    TL
     
  5. Sep 11, 2011 at 8:42 AM
    #5
    rcbs204

    rcbs204 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I wanna see video of these in action please. I want to do these as well. Are they Amp Research?
     
  6. Sep 11, 2011 at 12:04 PM
    #6
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    Yellow n Green Drivers side; Red n Black Passenger side. The Pink n Black are the rear doors. (not used for access cab) If you use spdt you'll have a bypass to switch if passenger door is opened while switch is OFF. Tacoma's door triggers are separated internally left n right for various reasons. rear doors are parallel circuit.
    Use DPDT switch...
     
  7. Sep 11, 2011 at 12:13 PM
    #7
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    I stand corrected.
     
  8. Sep 11, 2011 at 12:39 PM
    #8
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes - Amp Research. I'll try to get a vid. Actually I haven't even taken pics of the final product.

    TL
     
  9. Sep 11, 2011 at 1:02 PM
    #9
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for clarifying. DPDT is what I'm planning. On-Off-On. That's the type of switch I got - but the mounting depth is too deep for my location. I have a new one on order.

    Diodes not involved because I'm still not using the rear door circuit.
     
  10. Sep 11, 2011 at 6:20 PM
    #10
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    Again, the wires coming from the control box is 12v+, the door switch closes the circuit to activate the motors. The diode is there to prevent "loop" back power from going into the vehicle "black box"(light delay, alarm triggers, etc.) You'll need to use the original diode wires, both sides in order to get the effect you desire.

    If you only use the rear pink w black tracer, the real doors will bypass the switch effect.

    But try and fry....maybe:rolleyes:
     
  11. Sep 11, 2011 at 7:43 PM
    #11
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ouch!

    Your expertise exceeds mine by far. I have some limited understanding of diodes and played with them on a previous project.

    As I currently have the steps installed there are no diodes in the circuit. It works fine. The diodes included with the kit are only for the rear door wires (pink/black). I'm not using them because I have an Access Cab. The pink/black wires are there, but I didn't tap into them - hence I didn't use the supplied diodes. The wires that currently tap into the front door ajar circuit don't have diodes (and weren't supposed to per the instructions).

    As I understand my planned modification I am just going to add a separate path from the control module to ground. At first I thought it might make my door open light come on or something - but I don't think so as I look at it. I appreciate your help - if I'm missing something let me know. What I'm doing should bypass the door switch and just go directly to ground. I don't think that should fry anything.

    Please help me see what I'm missing.
     
  12. Sep 11, 2011 at 7:58 PM
    #12
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    cm

    I should also add that the schematic I am following looks like the same thing you drew - but is more complete. I may be assuming they are the same when they aren't.

    I'll post mine soon.
     
  13. Sep 11, 2011 at 8:07 PM
    #13
    JGJ

    JGJ Well-Known Member

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  14. Sep 11, 2011 at 8:14 PM
    #14
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here it is:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sep 13, 2011 at 12:40 PM
    #15
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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    Looks same.
    I would add the diodes just to be keep the OEM system isolated from the added step control box and the additional switch. I've had issues when adding ground trigger w/o diodes for other modes. Just my $.02.
     
  16. Sep 13, 2011 at 5:22 PM
    #16
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. When I was putting my stereo in I experimented with some diodes. They worked as expected for one application - but I ended up doing something else that was simpler. I had planned to use them for something else, but they didn't work as expected. I think that it was a similar circuit - using the diode on a wire that connected to ground. I tried installing the diode both directions, but neither worked. I found a different way around that problem as well. Not sure what I was doing wrong.

    As I understand it, a diode should be inserted where the step wiring taps into the existing truck circuit in a direction that allows current to flow only up to the control module - but not down from the module into the existing circuit.

    I'll have to read again to tell how to know what direction is which and play with them some.

    Let me know if I'm on the wrong track so far.

    Thanks

    TL
     
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