How to: Deleting ADD system

No, Its simply making it to where the front center driveshaft doesnt spin when in 2hi. Transfer case is still selectable between 2hi 4hi n 4lo.

Shit..... didnt realize this was from LAST april. I havnt seen a proper 2nd gen manual hub setup though.

 

Don't think there is one yet, but the Toyota transfer case design is pretty much unchanged. The front output shaft bearings are always bathed in oil due to their location at the bottom of the case. The only bearings that require the use of it's internal pump are the input and rear output bearings. You could run your taco like this and it'll last just as long as the rear output, maybe even longer because it is actually submerged in oil.

 

Nice work man!

 

If you have manual hubs and they are unlocked, then nothing should be spinning. That would be different than what is being done here, which would be similar to being in 2wd but leaving the hubs locked all the time.

 

A member on here was done it by taking 1st gen manual hubs and creating a custom CV axle that has a 2nd gen inner joint and a 1st gen outer joint (required a custom shaft). It's a pretty cool setup.

 

I was talking about leaving them locked in while driving in 2WD, which I do a lot in the winter when I think I may need 4wd at some point during the trip. Believe me I understand how my own truck works

 

Pardon my ignorance here, because I'm not familiar with the 4x4 system. I believed the point of this mod was to remove the actuator which engages the 4x4 system so it retains 4x4 all the time?

 

Yea. I don't see a problem with this. I drove about 20k miles with my front diff active when the actuator was broken.

 

The transfer case and the front differential tube both have actuators. The system has multiple points of engagement. This only cuts out the last one on the front differential. This one doesn't engage the power to the front driveshaft it just engages the passenger CV to the front differential, thus making it live.

 

No, it's just to remove the actuator from the front diff so that the front diff is always ready (live) for the t-case to be engaged in 4x4. You still have selectable 4x4, but the components in the front axle will also be turning.

 

Ahh, see, I didn't know there were two actuators. Fantastic answer. Thanks for the small education course.

I'll have to bookmark this thread for when I have issues with mine.

 

About as much as I worry about my rear diff turning all the time.

 

I have all the parts in my garage to do this swap to compliment my FJ case.

Only thing that would concern me are the needle bearings. But, since I have ARB's, I no longer have needle bearings.

I called ECGS twice. Two tech guys told me that with bushings, you're basically replicating the live axle on the FJ.

"Swap it and forget it" the first guy told me. That's what I'm going to do.

 

Anybody else think OP is over-exaggerating how "unreliable" the ADD actuator is? I hardly ever hear about them failing.

 

Short answer: The actuators are prone to water intrusion when submerged. The internals rust pretty easily. There are also other reasons they fail though.

 

I am hoping to install my manual hub setup this weekend.

 

Where did you get a manual hub setup for a 2nd gen?

 

No. I've had two fail on me. Both times water got in it when I was only in a few puddles up to the hubs.

 

let me find it, but there is a guy selling the kit. kinda expensive but i have always been a fan of less shit turning when driving lol