How to: drop, clean, and reinstall the 2nd Gen transmission pan and filter

TacomawithArima · Jun 6, 2022

Your part number for the transmission filter is WRONG.

$24 35330-60030 Automatic Transmission Filter Strainer Fit For Fit For Toyota Tacoma Lexus 3533060030

35330-60030 is the wrong filter. Youll get a filter without the circular opening.

35330-60050 is the correct filter. Please make this correction...it cost me money

Hook78[OP] initial post: ↑

This forum has given me a lot over the last few years, so thought I would give a little back in the form of this write-up. Haven’t seen a how-to on dropping and cleaning the transmission pan, hope this isn’t a duplicate.

There is already an excellent thread describing how to drain and fill the transmission fluid including the procedure to get into temp check mode and set the proper transmission fluid level with the engine running:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/

This post adds in steps to remove the pan, remove the filter, and clean both along with the four pan magnets. Then reinstall with a new gasket (and as I chose to do, new o-ring for the filter and new crush washers for the drain and overflow plugs).

Note: this procedure is for the A750F transmission. Your A/T P/N is listed on your driver’s door jamb above the tire PSI sticker. My vehicle is a 2015 DCSB V6 with 65k miles at the time of service.

Material and parts:
5 qts ATF (I used Toyota WS)
Filter o-ring P/N 90301-31014
Gasket P/N 35168-60010
Crush washers (2) P/N

$11 35178-30010

35178-30010
Shop towels
Brake cleaner
PB blaster
Optional: should you choose to replace rather than clean the filter (or “strainer”), it is Toyota P/N

$24 35330-60030 Automatic Transmission Filter Strainer Fit For Fit For Toyota Tacoma Lexus 3533060030

35330-60030 or Wix P/N 58136 which includes the pan gasket, or NAPA P/N ATP 17061 which also includes the gasket.

Tools:
24mm socket (fill plug)
14 mm socket (drain plug)
10 mm socket (pan bolts)
5 mm hex (overflow plug)
Torque wrench in ft-lbs
Torque wrench in in-lbs
5 quart metered clear bucket (recommended)
Drain container (I liked the Hopkins 16 qt variety because it’s shaped like the transmission pan)
Hand pump

Torque values derived from https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/
Fill plug: 29 ft-lbs
Drain plug: 21 ft-lbs (note: see posts #4, #25 and #26 where other members state this torque value should be corrected to 15 ft-lbs and that 21 ft-lbs can damage the plug and/or pan. I can only reference the torque spec in the manual. If someone has an official updated reference for this I’d appreciate it)
Overflow plug: 15 ft-lbs
Bolts attaching filter to valve body: 7 ft-lbs or 84 in-pounds
Bolts attaching pan to transmission case: 39 INCH-pounds

Procedure:

Soak the fill, drain, overflow and pan bolts with PB blaster the day prior. Just in case.

Remove fill plug located high on passenger side of transmission case using the 24mm socket. Should come off with an o-ring attached. Note: this is not doable with a deep socket due to lack of clearance. I chose a six-sided shallow socket, which is hard to find apparently. Didn’t want to round off corners with a 12-sided, but opinions vary on the subject.

Position catch bucket and remove drain plug. This is the plug that sits lower on the pan and requires the 14 mm socket. Loosen overflow plug with 5mm hex socket once pan is drained.

In the photo above, taken from the driver’s side, the overflow plug is center and closest to the camera.

Reinstall drain plug but only hand tighten. This is just to prevent the next part from being any messier than necessary.

Remove (20) pan bolts with the 10mm socket in a star pattern. They have washers so take your time and make sure you retain each bolt and washer. Ensure the last two you leave are opposite and easy to access. Hold the pan firmly in place while removing the last two bolts, lower slowly and then place over bucket or drain container to remove both plugs and pour out any remaining fluid. Once the pan is low enough to pull away from the filter intake, some fluid will dump from the filter so be prepared. Keep a bucket or drain container under the transmission as it will continue to drip.

The gasket may stick to the pan or to the case. Pull free or gently pry loose with a non-metallic tool if necessary. Mine came off the pan easily. There is no sealant holding the gasket in place. Make sure you have a soft cloth to place the pan on.

Remove the four magnets, and clean the magnets and pan with brake cleaner. Ensure the mating surface of the pan is clean. Replace magnets.

Next, remove the four 10mm bolts holding the filter to the valve body and then remove the filter. It takes a bit of force. Be prepared for some more fluid to dump once the filter comes off. Keep track of the o-ring on the top of the filter where it connects to the valve body.

Cleaning the body of the filter with brake fluid is easy, but getting the grit off the screen is awkward because of the access. I just wiped it out as best I could with a shop towel. Be careful as the screen is fragile. I also replaced the o-ring but some might consider this overkill.

You could also choose to replace the filter.

All told, through this whole process I collected about 4.3 qts of fluid.

Reinstall the filter with o-ring, it takes a hard push and kind of clunks into place. Torque bolts to spec in star pattern.

Clean mating surface of transmission case. Arrange new gasket in place on the transmission pan. Install two bolts to hold in place and hand tighten. It was a huge ass pain to keep the gasket in place on the pan while raising it to the case, because I did this whole procedure on my back on the floor of my garage with the transmission a foot or less from my face. Fun times! Some might put a drop of sealant on the four corners to hold the gasket in place, I was determined not to.

Install remaining bolts and torque to spec in star pattern. Congratulate yourself and drink copious beers.

At this point, install the drain plug with new crush washer and torque to spec, then install the overflow plug with new crush washer and only tighten slightly.

Add 5 quarts minimum to transmission via fill port and then reinstall fill plug. Up to you whether or not to torque it down, because if nothing comes out when you go into temp check mode and open the overflow plug, you will need access back to the fill port to add more fluid.

From here, refer to the remainder of the fill procedures in the drain and fill thread linked above, starting with turning on the engine and cycling through all the gears. I stayed in each gear for 30 seconds and cycled through twice. Don’t forget to ensure you’ve properly torqued all three transmission plugs to spec.

Some notes: this gets awkward because all three socket head sizes are involved: 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inches. So plan ahead. On the overflow plug make sure your hex socket seats deep into the plug, and clean it or blow it out if needed. Also, finding the smaller inch-pound torque wrench was a pain in the butt. Harbor Freight was the only game in town, had one for $20. But overall the mechanical difficulty level was very low, and it was pretty satisfying to clean all the sludge off the pan and magnets in addition to replacing some of the fluid. I do plan on 3 more drain and fills over the next month so that I’ll have gotten to most of the overall fluid.
Click to expand...

Hook78[OP] initial post: ↑

This forum has given me a lot over the last few years, so thought I would give a little back in the form of this write-up. Haven’t seen a how-to on dropping and cleaning the transmission pan, hope this isn’t a duplicate.

There is already an excellent thread describing how to drain and fill the transmission fluid including the procedure to get into temp check mode and set the proper transmission fluid level with the engine running:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/

This post adds in steps to remove the pan, remove the filter, and clean both along with the four pan magnets. Then reinstall with a new gasket (and as I chose to do, new o-ring for the filter and new crush washers for the drain and overflow plugs).

Note: this procedure is for the A750F transmission. Your A/T P/N is listed on your driver’s door jamb above the tire PSI sticker. My vehicle is a 2015 DCSB V6 with 65k miles at the time of service.

Material and parts:
5 qts ATF (I used Toyota WS)
Filter o-ring P/N 90301-31014
Gasket P/N 35168-60010
Crush washers (2) P/N

$11 35178-30010

35178-30010
Shop towels
Brake cleaner
PB blaster
Optional: should you choose to replace rather than clean the filter (or “strainer”), it is Toyota P/N

$24 35330-60030 Automatic Transmission Filter Strainer Fit For Fit For Toyota Tacoma Lexus 3533060030

35330-60030 or Wix P/N 58136 which includes the pan gasket, or NAPA P/N ATP 17061 which also includes the gasket.

Tools:
24mm socket (fill plug)
14 mm socket (drain plug)
10 mm socket (pan bolts)
5 mm hex (overflow plug)
Torque wrench in ft-lbs
Torque wrench in in-lbs
5 quart metered clear bucket (recommended)
Drain container (I liked the Hopkins 16 qt variety because it’s shaped like the transmission pan)
Hand pump

Torque values derived from https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/
Fill plug: 29 ft-lbs
Drain plug: 21 ft-lbs (note: see posts #4, #25 and #26 where other members state this torque value should be corrected to 15 ft-lbs and that 21 ft-lbs can damage the plug and/or pan. I can only reference the torque spec in the manual. If someone has an official updated reference for this I’d appreciate it)
Overflow plug: 15 ft-lbs
Bolts attaching filter to valve body: 7 ft-lbs or 84 in-pounds
Bolts attaching pan to transmission case: 39 INCH-pounds

Procedure:

Soak the fill, drain, overflow and pan bolts with PB blaster the day prior. Just in case.

Remove fill plug located high on passenger side of transmission case using the 24mm socket. Should come off with an o-ring attached. Note: this is not doable with a deep socket due to lack of clearance. I chose a six-sided shallow socket, which is hard to find apparently. Didn’t want to round off corners with a 12-sided, but opinions vary on the subject.

Position catch bucket and remove drain plug. This is the plug that sits lower on the pan and requires the 14 mm socket. Loosen overflow plug with 5mm hex socket once pan is drained.

In the photo above, taken from the driver’s side, the overflow plug is center and closest to the camera.

Reinstall drain plug but only hand tighten. This is just to prevent the next part from being any messier than necessary.

Remove (20) pan bolts with the 10mm socket in a star pattern. They have washers so take your time and make sure you retain each bolt and washer. Ensure the last two you leave are opposite and easy to access. Hold the pan firmly in place while removing the last two bolts, lower slowly and then place over bucket or drain container to remove both plugs and pour out any remaining fluid. Once the pan is low enough to pull away from the filter intake, some fluid will dump from the filter so be prepared. Keep a bucket or drain container under the transmission as it will continue to drip.

The gasket may stick to the pan or to the case. Pull free or gently pry loose with a non-metallic tool if necessary. Mine came off the pan easily. There is no sealant holding the gasket in place. Make sure you have a soft cloth to place the pan on.

Remove the four magnets, and clean the magnets and pan with brake cleaner. Ensure the mating surface of the pan is clean. Replace magnets.

Next, remove the four 10mm bolts holding the filter to the valve body and then remove the filter. It takes a bit of force. Be prepared for some more fluid to dump once the filter comes off. Keep track of the o-ring on the top of the filter where it connects to the valve body.

Cleaning the body of the filter with brake fluid is easy, but getting the grit off the screen is awkward because of the access. I just wiped it out as best I could with a shop towel. Be careful as the screen is fragile. I also replaced the o-ring but some might consider this overkill.

You could also choose to replace the filter.

All told, through this whole process I collected about 4.3 qts of fluid.

Reinstall the filter with o-ring, it takes a hard push and kind of clunks into place. Torque bolts to spec in star pattern.

Clean mating surface of transmission case. Arrange new gasket in place on the transmission pan. Install two bolts to hold in place and hand tighten. It was a huge ass pain to keep the gasket in place on the pan while raising it to the case, because I did this whole procedure on my back on the floor of my garage with the transmission a foot or less from my face. Fun times! Some might put a drop of sealant on the four corners to hold the gasket in place, I was determined not to.

Install remaining bolts and torque to spec in star pattern. Congratulate yourself and drink copious beers.

At this point, install the drain plug with new crush washer and torque to spec, then install the overflow plug with new crush washer and only tighten slightly.

Add 5 quarts minimum to transmission via fill port and then reinstall fill plug. Up to you whether or not to torque it down, because if nothing comes out when you go into temp check mode and open the overflow plug, you will need access back to the fill port to add more fluid.

From here, refer to the remainder of the fill procedures in the drain and fill thread linked above, starting with turning on the engine and cycling through all the gears. I stayed in each gear for 30 seconds and cycled through twice. Don’t forget to ensure you’ve properly torqued all three transmission plugs to spec.

Some notes: this gets awkward because all three socket head sizes are involved: 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inches. So plan ahead. On the overflow plug make sure your hex socket seats deep into the plug, and clean it or blow it out if needed. Also, finding the smaller inch-pound torque wrench was a pain in the butt. Harbor Freight was the only game in town, had one for $20. But overall the mechanical difficulty level was very low, and it was pretty satisfying to clean all the sludge off the pan and magnets in addition to replacing some of the fluid. I do plan on 3 more drain and fills over the next month so that I’ll have gotten to most of the overall fluid.
Click to expand...

I'

Hook78 · Jun 6, 2022

TacomawithArima said: ↑

Your part number for the transmission filter is WRONG.

$24 35330-60030 Automatic Transmission Filter Strainer Fit For Fit For Toyota Tacoma Lexus 3533060030

35330-60030 is the wrong filter. Youll get a filter without the circular opening.

35330-60050 is the correct filter. Please make this correction...it cost me money

I'
Click to expand...

Well, it depends on which engine you have. The -30 is for the 2.7L and the -50 is for the 4.0L. I’ve updated the original post, thanks for the correction.

You couldn’t return the -30?

Send me your Venmo, or PP and how much $ you’re out and I’ll hook you up.

KetoClutch · Jun 6, 2022

PA38flyer said: ↑

Big thanks to OP Hook78 for putting this together . . . the best step by step ever! Couple of things I did to make it easier on myself:

As Hook says, soak the pan bolts the day before. I used 10W whatever oil was on my shelf; brushed it on the top of the case flange where the threads go all the way through and tried to get oil under the head. Bought some extra M6-1.0x12 bolts in case I broke one (didn't though).

Didn't have a 24mm socket for the fill plug, but had an old 15/16" that was wore out just enough to make a nice snug fit on the plug. (24mm = 0.94488", 15/16" = 0.9375") The plug has a pretty shallow head, so I ground the socket down to where the points begin to get full contact. It bit just fine, no slipping.

To keep from spilling on the driveway when dropping the pan, I put a trash bag over a (well used) cheap plastic cement mixing tray and positioned it underneath. It was big enough to contain any splashes.

Didn't feel agile enough to fool around with a pump under the truck, so 4 feet of plastic tube and a funnel worked good. Buck and a half for the tube and pinched a funnel from under the kitchen sink; zip tied it to the intake plenum. Didn't spill a drop.

Last note, the local NAPA had the ATP 17061 filters for $25; the bolt holes in the gasket are slightly undersize so a couple of bolts inserted keeps the gasket in place.
Click to expand...

Your fill method is genius. Thank you!

Also, great write up OP

TacomawithArima · Jun 6, 2022

Thanks for the offer but I cannot accept your offer, this was my mistake. I should have had the Toyota Parts folk verify the part number would work. Always give them your vin for them to double check.

Thank you so much for creating this Guide and uploading the pictures and I'm glad I could contribute some information to the overall guide.

Hook78[OP] said: ↑

Well, it depends on which engine you have. The -30 is for the 2.7L and the -50 is for the 4.0L. I’ve updated the original post, thanks for the correction.

You couldn’t return the -30?

Send me your Venmo, or PP and how much $ you’re out and I’ll hook you up.
Click to expand...

Hook78 · Jun 7, 2022

TacomawithArima said: ↑

Thanks for the offer but I cannot accept your offer, this was my mistake. I should have had the Toyota Parts folk verify the part number would work. Always give them your vin for them to double check.

Thank you so much for creating this Guide and uploading the pictures and I'm glad I could contribute some information to the overall guide.
Click to expand...

Appreciate it, hate that you’re out cash. PM me if you change your mind.

deanosaurus · Jun 7, 2022

@Hook78 Yo, thanks for the great writeup.

If anyone is doing this job and wants to just go ahead and put new bolts in, I picked up 25 stainless flange head M6x1.0x12 for a couple bucks - eBay link here https://www.ebay.com/itm/222548680528

Hook78 · Jun 7, 2022

deanosaurus said: ↑

@Hook78 Yo, thanks for the great writeup.

If anyone is doing this job and wants to just go ahead and put new bolts in, I picked up 25 stainless flange head M6x1.0x12 for a couple bucks - eBay link here https://www.ebay.com/itm/222548680528
Click to expand...

Glad it was helpful! And thanks for the info on the bolts, some people have some seriously rusted out ones.

KetoClutch · Jun 7, 2022

Just bought a set. Hit 120k miles this week, so it’s in my near future. Thanks @deanosaurus

Technikev · Aug 20, 2022

deanosaurus said: ↑

@Hook78If anyone is doing this job and wants to just go ahead and put new bolts in, I picked up 25 stainless flange head M6x1.0x12 for a couple bucks - eBay link here https://www.ebay.com/itm/222548680528
Click to expand...

If you want to replace the pan bolts, I'd recommend using regular steel. I know the idea of using bolts that won't rust like the originals is pretty appealing, but stainless bolts on an aluminum pan or threading into an aluminum transmission is asking for some issues. Galvanic corrosion of aluminum pieces in contact with the stainless is pretty likely. And probably more problematic or expensive.

deanosaurus · Aug 20, 2022

Technikev said: ↑

If you want to replace the pan bolts, I'd recommend using regular steel. I know the idea of using bolts that won't rust like the originals is pretty appealing, but stainless bolts on an aluminum pan or threading into an aluminum transmission is asking for some issues. Galvanic corrosion of aluminum pieces in contact with the stainless is pretty likely. And probably more problematic or expensive.
Click to expand...

That's a good point, but here in Salt Hell I've had more problems with heads rounding out or snapping. The mild steel shafts everywhere I've had issues (with a few exceptions) looked fine - it's the heads and "necks" that get eaten up, so I personally am not as concerned about the threads corroding.

You end up paying the salt tax one way or another, I guess!

Edit - after doing a bit of refreshing and reading (this is not my area of specialty), I believe that stainless fasteners in this application will not be certain doom. This is due to two things:

1) the surface area ratio of exposed aluminum to stainless is VERY high, and

2) while the fastener head is exposed, little to no electrolyte (road salt spray) should make it into the threads, due to the pan and gasket forming an effective seal. This mirrors what I noticed when extracting the broken factory bolts - the threads actually looked great, it was the heads that popped. Guidance in a few industries (based on BPs and common applications in marine and mining) is that isolating the threads from electrolyte intrusion with e.g. a neoprene washer, gasket, or various types of anti-fouling applied to the threads is important, and that using an aluminum fastener (typically a rivet) in stainless sheets is verboten.

We'll see in another 250k miles or so, I guess!

KetoClutch · Aug 20, 2022

I’m not in salt hell, but sand just came out my bathroom and sink drains this week. Broken drainage pipe, obviously.
+1 for Sand hell!

tacofish · Aug 24, 2022

Just did his
Great write up everything went smooth
Not much metal but fluid was pretty dark
Wish I saw PA38 FLYERS post before i did this would have save a bunch of time
Took longer because i had to remove my cat shield to get to the trans

I’m at 105000 ml

Logger · Aug 24, 2022

@Hook78 thanks for taking the time to outline and post. This helped me a TON, everything from ordering the correct parts to the actual work. I just did mine yesterday, everything went smoothly. Having my Scangauge 2 really made it slick when it came time to check proper fluid level.

Hook78 · Aug 24, 2022

Logger said: ↑

@Hook78 thanks for taking the time to outline and post. This helped me a TON, everything from ordering the correct parts to the actual work. I just did mine yesterday, everything went smoothly. Having my Scangauge 2 really made it slick when it came time to check proper fluid level.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it man! Yeah I would trade a Scan gauge for the temp mode game any time.

balls47 · Sep 1, 2022

Great information here and love the hose trick for refill.

gotoman1969 · Sep 2, 2022

Flush every 90k and call it day.

Cozza · Mar 4, 2023

Awesome walk through. Just used it today and the hose to the engine bay saved a lot of crawling around.

troexc77 · May 27, 2023

I Just wanted to point out an issue I had following this and maybe someone else that knows what they are doing can chime in because I am by no mean a mechanic. So I followed these instructions except the only thing I didn't do was measure how much drained out of trans. I then refiled it with 5 quarts like the write up says too. Everything seemed to be fine while I was cycling through the gears and then it came time to get the truck into temp check mode. While I was cycling between D and N I had a couple of hard/rough sounds shifts. Once I crawled underneath to drain the over flow I noticed that there was a drop of trans fluid hanging from this part of the transmission (pictured below) coming from that gasket seal. Those pictures are after I wiped the drops of oil off.

So I guess Im wondering, was 5 qrts to much? Did it create to much pressure and force oil out of the seal? I drained at least a half qrt maybe even a full qrt from the overflow plug.

Transmission seem to be shifting great now and the leak appears to have stopped. Im going to drive around for a while tomorrow then check to see if it appears to be leaking at all again.

Hook78 · May 28, 2023

troexc77 said: ↑

I Just wanted to point out an issue I had following this and maybe someone else that knows what they are doing can chime in because I am by no mean a mechanic. So I followed these instructions except the only thing I didn't do was measure how much drained out of trans. I then refiled it with 5 quarts like the write up says too. Everything seemed to be fine while I was cycling through the gears and then it came time to get the truck into temp check mode. While I was cycling between D and N I had a couple of hard/rough sounds shifts. Once I crawled underneath to drain the over flow I noticed that there was a drop of trans fluid hanging from this part of the transmission (pictured below) coming from that gasket seal. Those pictures are after I wiped the drops of oil off.

So I guess Im wondering, was 5 qrts to much? Did it create to much pressure and force oil out of the seal? I drained at least a half qrt maybe even a full qrt from the overflow plug.

Transmission seem to be shifting great now and the leak appears to have stopped. Im going to drive around for a while tomorrow then check to see if it appears to be leaking at all again.

Click to expand...

The 5 qts was based on my experience of losing 4.3 quarts in the process, so it’s important to measure out what you drain in total in order to know what to replace. I’ll update the instructions accordingly.

SR-71A · Jun 9, 2023

troexc77 said: ↑

I Just wanted to point out an issue I had following this and maybe someone else that knows what they are doing can chime in because I am by no mean a mechanic. So I followed these instructions except the only thing I didn't do was measure how much drained out of trans. I then refiled it with 5 quarts like the write up says too. Everything seemed to be fine while I was cycling through the gears and then it came time to get the truck into temp check mode. While I was cycling between D and N I had a couple of hard/rough sounds shifts. Once I crawled underneath to drain the over flow I noticed that there was a drop of trans fluid hanging from this part of the transmission (pictured below) coming from that gasket seal. Those pictures are after I wiped the drops of oil off.

So I guess Im wondering, was 5 qrts to much? Did it create to much pressure and force oil out of the seal? I drained at least a half qrt maybe even a full qrt from the overflow plug.

Transmission seem to be shifting great now and the leak appears to have stopped. Im going to drive around for a while tomorrow then check to see if it appears to be leaking at all again.

Click to expand...

Isn't that where the trans meets the t-case? A qt over for the fluid level check procedure shouldn't be a big deal. Id just keep an eye on it for now.

Interesting the pan gasket you used seems to be cork. I think OEM and most aftermarket ones are a synthetic rubber style

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How to: drop, clean, and reinstall the 2nd Gen transmission pan and filter

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