How To Install SumoSprings

The front got higher too? I thought it was just 5/8" in the rear.
How much did the dealer charge if you don't mind me asking?

 

It is

 

As stated above, he adjusted the alignment in terms of the 'thrust angle'. To me, it appears that the truck is higher overall. I assume that he made several adjustments - perhaps front and rear.... IDK, and frankly, I don't really care as long as it works - and it does.

The local Stealership charged 1 hour of time - with taxes and all the other BS it was around $130. Far easier than spending another 3-4 hours of my life taking it somewhere else or burning up my precious time off from work.

 

Not with out modifying or making your own plates.

I was looking into a flip kit till this pain

 

Ok I've read the whole thread and didn't find answers to a couple of my questions. I installed the sumosprings on my 2016 off road. They definately feel great and solved my squatting issue when towing my camper. But I'm worried about a couple things.

1. The sumosprings are in contact with the bump atop brackets all the time on the frame. Obviously more so when loaded. Are these brackets designed to take a load all the time or could use of sumosprings damage the fram from stress?

2. There seems to be lots of dirt getting trapped between the end of the sumospring and the frame. Is anyone seeing a problem with rusting due to abrasion of this dirt.

3. I'm noticing a little more porpusing when towing. It's only a 3000lb trailer with 300lbs of tongue load. I have bilstein 5100s in the back. Why would I have more bouncing. I got he whole rig weighed. 2400 front axle. 2900 rear axle. 2600 drive axle. So Wright ha seem to be in line with axle specs. No way to use a weight distributing hitch because it's a single pole trailer. Any ideas?

 

Thoughts, just thoughts:
1) Stress on frame.Unloaded, while maybe constantly in contact, its still a 'relatively soft' contact, and even with the factory bumpstops, the frame has got to be able to withstand spontaneous and hard hits without repercussions;
2) If perpetual contact and perpetual dirt can abraid (sp?) to bare metal, it can also keep rust abraided.
3) Porpoising? I have the same set-up, TRD Off Road, 3000lb A-Frame trailer, same tongue wt. Have towed this configuration a couple thousand miles already, have not experienced said porpoising. Ordinary, that suggests too light a tongue weight, at 3000lbs, 300lb tongue weight might be light... Try increasing to 15% instead of 10%.
NOTE. Actually, I tow at about 2300lbs with 275lb tongue weight: 12%
Thems my thoughts.

 

Just did this last Sunday. Having added Firestones and Hellwig helper leaves to F150's, all I can say is I wish I knew about these years ago. Firestones worked when they were loaded, but unloaded, even at 5 psi, the back end was up in the air (don't forget, any change in temperature meant going above 5 psi so you never went below 5 psi). Sumos didn't require running lines that can rub on the frame and leak. Hellwigs simply did not provide the help they were supposed to. All this said, before learning of Sumos, I was thinking of Firestones.

Concerns:

Has anybody else seen or heard any reference promoting an alignment after adding these? I would think if this were a legitimate need, SumoSprings documentation would have some "don't sue us because we told you to get an alignment" language. If adding these screws up the alignment of the rear axle, you will drive sideways. A thrust alignment (if I am correct, aligns the front using the back as a reference) isn't going to fix that. My guess is that either you are correct using the term "stealer", or the dealership and/or Toyota has a policy that if a wrench touches a suspension member, somebody is paying for an alignment. Thoughts here? I don't question what I see as the most important issue: If you ever have an issue, Toyota will be far less able to claim it was caused by Sumosprings.

Can you use a pole-tongue adapter? Reese makes these, I think there are some others on etrailer.com. My thoughts are the porpoising is there now because the leaf springs aren't as compressed and there is more room to move. Is this from the trailer in your avatar? If so, the single axle is being used as a pivot, and that tall camper is catching every gust of wind sent its' way. Now, being that this is a camper, there are probably cabinets and things mounted about 6' off the floor. Trailer & tongue weight is one thing, how high the weight is above the axle of the trailer is vastly different. If you take something that weighs 10 pounds out of a cabinet 3 feet above the axle and stow it in an overhead cabinet 6 feet above the axle, it now feels like a hundred pounds trying to make you porpoise when you brake / accelerate. Toyota doesn't recommend a weight distribution hitch until you hit 5000 pounds, but does recommend anything over 3000 pounds be a double axle trailer, it's harder to pivot on two axles at once.

I'm interested in how tall your camper is and where your gear loads in your camper when you are underway. Keep in mind, doubling the distance between the axle and load increases the amount of force that load has exponentially when it tries to pivot on the axle. Example: I took a 15 foot camper that was loaded to the limit for years with no problems, and flipped the axle to get more ground clearance. That small change moved everything up off the axle, and every time I would go around a corner, the increased load caused the tires to wear more on one edge instead of the center. My response: When we travel, everything is on the floor. Looks like my kids bedrooms, but nothing falls out of a cabinet and there is less roll. I still get some weird pattern on the tires, but some things you can't move. I'm still pulling things out, like the particle board table (that supports the bed) that could be replaced with plywood to cut the weight in half. Another item related to the distance-from-axle is the distance between your axle and hitch ball. Longer is better to prevent sway / porpoise (this is why Jeeps or FJs - which is essentially a short wheelbase Tacoma - have lower tow ratings). I would suggest looking on craigslist or local ads for the cheapest complete WD hitch, and look at examples of a pole tongue adapter for ideas - I'm guessing if you built that camper, you can build / engineer an adapter or rail to mount the spring bar chain brackets.

Nice truck / nice camper. Just a guess from your photos, is this in Virginia / NC?

 

I have a 2017 TRD OR DCSB and have recently installed a cap and DIY drawer system. The ass has sagged an inch and I haven't put my Prinsu rack or Awning on yet. I don't have the funds to do a full lift yet. will these push my back end back up?

 

Yes, they are perfect for you as you will have the truck loaded all the time.

 

thats what i was thinking, anyone else with thoughts or opinions?

 

I have a cap and sleeping setup, along with gear I leave in the bed 24/7. I was having a lot of sag, and the back would bottom out easy on rough terrain. The sumosprings helped significantly. They got the sag out and no more hard hits bottoming out. In my opinion, they are a cheap mod that are perfect for anyone that carries weight in the bed all the time.

 

they're cheap but they are temporary as i plan to go with an OME kit and Dakars this fall. i just need to bring the but up for the time being and get back to or close to factory rake

 

Here she is under full load, to give you an idea of how the sumo springs sit loaded. This is my completely stock OR except the sumo springs and about 900 #s in the bed.

 

F yeah, you look like you are sitting pretty level even with the weight added in this pic, and thats way more than i'll have!

 

and just to confirm, i need to get the SSR-610-40s, correct?

 

Yes, the blue ones.

$280 SSR-610-40 | SumoSprings Rear for Toyota Tundra, Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier, Nissan Titan

SSR-610-40

 

In case my current prospect doesn't work out, anyone here willing to sell me their old bump stops? I need them for a trailer project I'm working.
Please let me know.

 

For guys running the heavier duty black/tundra sumo's, what's the feedback. I'm getting ready to pick up a pop up with a front deck for my dirt bike, will probably be running around 450lbs hitch weight plus about 200lbs constantly in the bed. Wondering if the blue ones will be enough to prevent significant sag. Thanks!

 

I though the blue ones where rated at like 1000 lbs or something like that. Black ones for like 1,500 lbs. Would think the blues would be more than enough.

 

Here you go... Check out this thread (post #43 specifically):

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sumo-springs-for-lifted-applications.459775/page-3