How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Thanks for this guide. I looked up all the torque specs from the Toyota service manual so here they are if anyone else wants them:

ABS Sensor 10mm - 10ft lbs
Brake line bracket 12mm - 21ft lbs
Brake caliper 14mm - 91ft lbs
4 17 mm hub assembly bolts - 59ft lbs
Front axle hub nut - 173ft lbs for 4WD, 203ft lbs on Pre Runner
Tie rod - 67ftlb
Upper ball joint/suspension arm - 81ft lb
Lower suspension arm - 118ft lb
Sway bar links - 52ftlb
Wheel - 83ft lbs

 

Like this?

 

That's what I used to pop mine out. I just slammed those suckers back in by hand though.

 

Gotcha. I think I'm going to order this: If you read the 2nd Review down, a Toyota Master Tech from Buena Park, CA wrote a convincing review.

 

It works. There's a thin metal dust sheild lip on the cv's where you will be prying. I bent mine a little from prying on it but it's not a critical seal or anything so I just bent it back with some pliers and she was good to go.

 

Hey guys I am about to replace my front wheel bearing and have some questions.

1. Is the axle nut reusable?
2. Do I need a press for or can I use a wood block and hammer to hammer in the spindle into the wheel bearing hub?
3. What seal is the correct seal for the one that goes between the spindle and the wheel bearing hub assembly

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...79603&searchTerm=710477&showTitle=#fragment-3

or


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/national-oil-seal-710573/20441889-P?searchTerm=wheel+seal



Lasty. For the inner seal, is there enough room to take out the cv shaft from the knuckle without removing the sway bar, tie rod, ball joint etc? I want to replace both inner and outter but not if its going to be a pain.

 

I ordered it. Hope it helps.

 

It'll definitely work. I tried a couple quick wacks with a slide hammer, which didn't work at first, then just pryed them off. Took a couple minutes with the pry bar.

 

So, you're saying that you used the Pry bar in lieu of the Slide Hammer?

After I got the Pry Bar, all I'll need is a couple more quarts of

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 and a Torque Wrench that goes to at least 173 foot lbs. The one I have stops at 150

How long did it take you to do one side?

 

I didn't replace my hubs. I took my CV's out to swap the front diff. And yes, I used the pry bar instead of the slide hammer. IIRC it took me about 30-45 min per side. I used a corded electric Dewalt 1/2" impact gun to take the axle hub nut off and to reinstall.

Are you swapping diffs?

 

Well, not my Diffs but... I'm going to attempt to swap out both CV Axles, Wheel Bearing/Hub Assemblies, and replace my tucks busted Needle Bearing with the ECGS replacement. Kind of a big job for someone who's never replaced any of those parts before haha
I'm just trying my best to have all the tools, seals, gear oil, etc ready before I attempt to give it a go.

 

I just remove by using a chisel and a hammer on the notches haha

 

That also works. I remember having to tap one side in like that when re-installing.

 

I used the pry bar like this and they popped right out:

 

1. For a $2-5 part, it's wise to replace - I re-used mine. Dura kit # 295-96058 from RockAuto includes bearing, hub and nut for $74.
2. Eric the Car Guy used a hammer on a 4Runner - took forever https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTS4ke7nViE
I used a 20-ton press. Follow these tips (I inverted an old bearing race in place of the sleeve):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhHbOe5SSZc
3. The 710573. $11 at Amazon; $9 at RockAuto.
3b. Don't forget the O-ring, part Toyota # 90301-A0005.

Lastly: you need to remove sway bar and tie rod ball joint. Main ball joint also, but it is on a subassembly (aka ball joint steering stop) - it comes off easy by removing two bolts. You don't have to remove the CV shaft - it's easy to push outta the way once the knuckle is free from the ball joint steering stop. (Do remove the caliper first.)

Some tips: Use a wire adapter on a drill to remove all rust, then apply a light coat of grease (axle cap; bearing seals - on metal to metal surfaces; even the rotor where it slides over the hub). Lube rubber to metal surfaces with silicon such as SuperLube #92003; diaelectric grease will do. That inside seal was a PIA to install - I ended up using a 1X3 piece of wood and a C-clamp to press the seal onto the knuckle. Be very careful sliding the CV shaft through so it don't tear the rubber on seal - use silicone here.

Some good tips here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/another-front-wheel-bearing-replacement-resource.202119/

Don't follow the Eric the Car Guy video; he did it the hard way.
This is a good video for replacing the bearing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVuM8iVO6u8

 

KenpachiZarak, there is no need to remove the hub and get it pressed. Simply remove the two bolts from the lower steering knuckle will give plenty clearance to get it out. Just an easier way about it.

 

Awesome write up, very helpful while researching before doing my wheel bearings and ECGS bushing last weekend!

 

Awesome glad it helped.

 

Thank you for the shootout Alex

 

You're welcome! Those seals are a great save again btw!