How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Boulder Taco · Aug 8, 2020

Taco No Baka said: ↑

Good luck. Hope it goes smoothly for you.
Click to expand...

Success! Worked out great. Both axles took 2.5 hours. Hardest part was getting the damn dust cap off
I'd add we only took the 2 bolts off the bottom where knuckle connects, as well as the the tie rod. Def. 2 man job getting the axle out and back on, but not too bad. Saved a whole lotta $$$

Taco No Baka · Aug 8, 2020

On a 2nd Gen, I don't think you even needed to take the tie rod end loose. Once you remove the ball joint bolts, you should have enough movement to swing the knuckle out while sliding the outer stub axle out of the hub assembly. The CV axle removal and installation can be done by one person. Haha, I guess I've changed so many of them at this point I can't see where another person would be doing anything but getting in the way. If I happen to have help or am helping someone else with their 2 Gen, we usually each take a side and work them both at the same time.

Texas-Shrapnel · May 26, 2021

slcsez2000 said: ↑

Quick question relating to replacing an entire hub assembly and the seals:

Are these parts inside the complete hub assembly OR are these going in either side outside the assembly?

I think outside right? Like do I need these if I have a full assembled hub assembly and am replacing only that? Doing this tomorrow morning so want to make sure I am ready.

Click to expand...

Quick question. If I'm simply removing both CV Axles just so I can replace the inner boots with the CV Higher Angle Red Silicone Inner Boot, which seals (if any) do I need, or should I replace? Thanks in advance.

4WDTrout · Feb 26, 2023

Texas-Shrapnel said: ↑

Quick question. If I'm simply removing both CV Axles just so I can replace the inner boots with the CV Higher Angle Red Silicone Inner Boot, which seals (if any) do I need, or should I replace? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Are those “Higher Angle Red Silicone Inner Boots” like the ones that CVJ puts on their remanned cv axles?
If so, I had all mine fail on me after about 2 years or so. Not trying to throw a wrench in your plan but, thought I might be able to share my experience and possibly save you time & money. Not sure what others experiences are but, that was mine.

hotajax · May 18, 2022

KenpachiZaraki[OP] said: ↑

No prob! I will be doing the Needle bearing replacement soon, I just need a few days off to do so, but The driver side bearing+cv axle+ needle bearing are next I got this!!
Click to expand...

Easy job. Suggestion: Place a pine board under the bearing while you're whacking it with a hammer. That way it won't fall to the pavment and break ( if the bearing isn't bad to begin with ).

jkg01913 · Feb 25, 2023

I am reassembling my passenger side and the new wheel bearing assembly is getting stuck on the axle splines. No burs or damage on the axle or new hub. Axle was free when I removed the original, could slide in/out of the original hub with my thumb when the axle nut was removed.Original hub assembly still slides right on with a light push, new hub gets stuck on axle spines before the machined lip reaches the upright. Short of a messed up new bearing assembly what am I missing? The new unit is Koyo wheel bearing assembly. Left the dust shield off for clarity in the attached picture.

Boulder Taco · Apr 28, 2023

Has anyone had any issues replacing their CV Boots on a rig with a lift or running spacers?

Suckafartout · Jul 8, 2023

KenpachiZaraki[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey guys, I did this recently, took some pics, and i hope they help out. I did this with the help of a friend (mostly just so he could drive me to get the bearing pressed in. Jonathan-Nobody4343 on TW) so here goes, i might miss some stuff, but I'll try to explain as best i can from memory.

*Disclaimer* I am not responsible for any damage done to YOUR vehicle. This is solely for informational purposes. If you feel you can't do this, or are not mechanically inclined, I suggest you pay someone or have someone else do this for you. Thanks and enjoy!!

Tools that would be beneficial to your task at hand. Thanks for the knowledge input @Chickenmunga !

get your wheel off! 21mm impact or muscle, whichever you can do best

looks like so

cotter pin out, pull off retaining cap

35mm socket to take it off, its on there nice and tight, I locked my front diff to do this. just made it easier. Autozone has it for aboot 20 bucks

remove ABS sensor 10mm socket

remove brake line bracket 12 mm IIRC

remove brake caliper bolts 14mm IIRC

suspend caliper with wire/bungee/ or speaker wire and rotor should come off

remove HUB Bearing assembly theres 4 total. 17 mm I believe. these are on tight (especially if you wheel and get dirt and crap on there)
Use some P'Blaster or WD40 or Liquid Wrench overnight for best results (thanks toytaco!)

cheated, used two wrenches to do it for leverage

STOP!!! Hammer Time!! Knocking around the HUB assembly will help with getting it loose from the spindle if theres junk
not letting it come off.

I put the cv axle nut back on to kinda keep the whole thing from falling off

Close up of the play i had in the bearing BEFORE i took it off or loosened it, you can see here that there is *some* play but that is more than enough for dirt/water to get in there and ruin your bearing especially if you like 4wheeling like I do.

I used a big screw driver to help pry out the hub from the spindle, just be gentle and work around it a little at a time.

BAM! off it comes!! You kinda have to go all the way around wiggling it off, but it will come off eventually

This is what you're left with

thats your bearing, which HAS to be pressed in, i haven't see a hub assemble *yet* that would make this much easier

Disconnect upperball joint, tie rod end, lower shock bolt, and sway bar link. You will need to move the spindle to get the cv axle free

you can see my cv boot torn in the back. the cv axle was 75 bucks i believe.(autozone) It beats 80 bucks at the dealer ship to replace JUST the cv boot. its just more work. Lower ball joints are shot too which I will end up replacing LOL

You will have to angle/wrestle the old and new cv joint in and out of the spindle, but you can do it without hurting anything.
Now to remove the CV joint, I rented the slide hammer with jaw attachments. all you need it slide hammer with ONE jaw/hook attackment and a hose clamp which you can get at Autozone as well.

Fluids will leak out, make sure to have drain pan ready

the hook attachment will hook onto the flat part on the cv axle. that's ALL you need. It comes out easy, or you can grunt your way to knock it loose with a big hammer. your choice. my way is easy.

EDIT:

Our good friend @nj636 has provided other tips on how to remove the cv axel incase others have a difficult time.

Thanks @nj636 ! Credit goes to you!

Now would be a good time to replace the seal if its shot. I didn't (stealership is 1hr away) but it didn't leak afterwards, just be sure not to jack it up with the end of the cv axle.

there is a seal at the end of the axle as well, i reused these also (i know i'm cheap )

other end

hammer of the seal lightly, it comes off easier that it goes on haha

One side of the axle, the seal is huge. like i had to use 3"pvc pipe+coupling huge. the other side i used some sockets i had at work.

Drove it like this for 2+years!!!! Notice how dirty the grease is, but its a Tacoma, its not gonna break that easy!!

Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure to fill up your front diff, and your new bearing HAS to get pressed in. Usually machine shops can or welding shops will have a press. I costed me 30 bucks to get it pressed in which is about average. The hook method of removal will also work in putting back on the cv axle, but you'll need a second hand to center the new cv axle while another hammers that junk in haha.
slide hammer attachement kit

hook attachment

Ball join adapter for getting on ONE of the seals (its the smaller of the two)

The set

I just stacked them to make sure the cv shaft didnt hit the socket while i hammered. ANother person does help here

Ok i'm tired. Any questions, please feel free to ask. I know others have done it around here so i'm sure they'll pitch in ideas and whatnot. I hope this helps everyone on TW. Thanks!!!

UPDATE: Hey guys I'm in the process of getting all the parts together for the driver's side bearing, as It seems I have to replace it already. I'm getting a groaning noise, very similar to the passenger side I replace. And it indeed WAS the pass side wheel bearing causing a groaning noise.
I Might also add that my brakes were affected as well when the pass side wheel bearing was bad. It almost felt like the pedal would travel all the way down to the floor and sometimes it wouldn't. It seems i'm having the same symptoms again, so i'm going to replace the wheel bearing on the driver side, CV axle (for good measure) needle bearing, differential seal (mine seems to be leaking/wetting diff), and all the seals that are found on the cv axle itself.

If anyone can help me with part #'s for the seals on the axle itself i would greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do some calling around to see if i can get a complete parts list of all the stuff needed to replace cv axles, bearing etc. I have a few numbers right now, but i want to be more thorough in case anyone else has problems.

You can buy complete HUB assemblies here. Saves yourself an ass load of time, money and headaches. Make sure to get the seals while you're at it! Preventative maintenance! vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x2-prerunner-for-sale-complete-save.288055/

Part #'s
CV axle - 665235 (cardone #) 10298(autozone) Both sides are the same #
Needle Roller Bearing - 90364-35010 (Toyota Part #) This is for driver side.
Wheel Bearing - B30(timken) DL515040 (Autozone) Both sides are same part #
Differential Seal - 710419 (Timken) This is the seal that goes on/inside the differential
Oil Seal(s) - 710477 inner (towards differential)
710573 outer (towards wheel/hub bearing)

Thanks again @Chickenmunga for issuing the knowledge upon us with these pictures and part #'s

Like i said, I just want to be more thorough. I'm not an expert, but I do my own work and I can't stop learning. Thanks to all those that have contributed to this thread, hopefully, this will save someone some time in the future.
Click to expand...

Wow it’s a lot harder than I thought, thanks for doing the right up and letting me know not to try this on my own at home with my truck as my one and only vehicle right now, don’t wanna get stuck. Lol

T Fades · Apr 1, 2024

Replacing the front hub assembly/wheel bearings on my '11 PreRunner. Is it recommended to grease the o-ring on the new assembly? TIA.

abk1004 · Feb 5, 2025

KenpachiZaraki[OP] initial post: ↑

Hey guys, I did this recently, took some pics, and i hope they help out. I did this with the help of a friend (mostly just so he could drive me to get the bearing pressed in. Jonathan-Nobody4343 on TW) so here goes, i might miss some stuff, but I'll try to explain as best i can from memory.

*Disclaimer* I am not responsible for any damage done to YOUR vehicle. This is solely for informational purposes. If you feel you can't do this, or are not mechanically inclined, I suggest you pay someone or have someone else do this for you. Thanks and enjoy!!

Tools that would be beneficial to your task at hand. Thanks for the knowledge input @Chickenmunga !

get your wheel off! 21mm impact or muscle, whichever you can do best

looks like so

cotter pin out, pull off retaining cap

35mm socket to take it off, its on there nice and tight, I locked my front diff to do this. just made it easier. Autozone has it for aboot 20 bucks

remove ABS sensor 10mm socket

remove brake line bracket 12 mm IIRC

remove brake caliper bolts 14mm IIRC

suspend caliper with wire/bungee/ or speaker wire and rotor should come off

remove HUB Bearing assembly theres 4 total. 17 mm I believe. these are on tight (especially if you wheel and get dirt and crap on there)
Use some P'Blaster or WD40 or Liquid Wrench overnight for best results (thanks toytaco!)

cheated, used two wrenches to do it for leverage

STOP!!! Hammer Time!! Knocking around the HUB assembly will help with getting it loose from the spindle if theres junk
not letting it come off.

I put the cv axle nut back on to kinda keep the whole thing from falling off

Close up of the play i had in the bearing BEFORE i took it off or loosened it, you can see here that there is *some* play but that is more than enough for dirt/water to get in there and ruin your bearing especially if you like 4wheeling like I do.

I used a big screw driver to help pry out the hub from the spindle, just be gentle and work around it a little at a time.

BAM! off it comes!! You kinda have to go all the way around wiggling it off, but it will come off eventually

This is what you're left with

thats your bearing, which HAS to be pressed in, i haven't see a hub assemble *yet* that would make this much easier

Disconnect upperball joint, tie rod end, lower shock bolt, and sway bar link. You will need to move the spindle to get the cv axle free

you can see my cv boot torn in the back. the cv axle was 75 bucks i believe.(autozone) It beats 80 bucks at the dealer ship to replace JUST the cv boot. its just more work. Lower ball joints are shot too which I will end up replacing LOL

You will have to angle/wrestle the old and new cv joint in and out of the spindle, but you can do it without hurting anything.
Now to remove the CV joint, I rented the slide hammer with jaw attachments. all you need it slide hammer with ONE jaw/hook attackment and a hose clamp which you can get at Autozone as well.

Fluids will leak out, make sure to have drain pan ready

the hook attachment will hook onto the flat part on the cv axle. that's ALL you need. It comes out easy, or you can grunt your way to knock it loose with a big hammer. your choice. my way is easy.

EDIT:

Our good friend @nj636 has provided other tips on how to remove the cv axel incase others have a difficult time.

Thanks @nj636 ! Credit goes to you!

Now would be a good time to replace the seal if its shot. I didn't (stealership is 1hr away) but it didn't leak afterwards, just be sure not to jack it up with the end of the cv axle.

there is a seal at the end of the axle as well, i reused these also (i know i'm cheap )

other end

hammer of the seal lightly, it comes off easier that it goes on haha

One side of the axle, the seal is huge. like i had to use 3"pvc pipe+coupling huge. the other side i used some sockets i had at work.

Drove it like this for 2+years!!!! Notice how dirty the grease is, but its a Tacoma, its not gonna break that easy!!

Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure to fill up your front diff, and your new bearing HAS to get pressed in. Usually machine shops can or welding shops will have a press. I costed me 30 bucks to get it pressed in which is about average. The hook method of removal will also work in putting back on the cv axle, but you'll need a second hand to center the new cv axle while another hammers that junk in haha.
slide hammer attachement kit

hook attachment

Ball join adapter for getting on ONE of the seals (its the smaller of the two)

The set

I just stacked them to make sure the cv shaft didnt hit the socket while i hammered. ANother person does help here

Ok i'm tired. Any questions, please feel free to ask. I know others have done it around here so i'm sure they'll pitch in ideas and whatnot. I hope this helps everyone on TW. Thanks!!!

UPDATE: Hey guys I'm in the process of getting all the parts together for the driver's side bearing, as It seems I have to replace it already. I'm getting a groaning noise, very similar to the passenger side I replace. And it indeed WAS the pass side wheel bearing causing a groaning noise.
I Might also add that my brakes were affected as well when the pass side wheel bearing was bad. It almost felt like the pedal would travel all the way down to the floor and sometimes it wouldn't. It seems i'm having the same symptoms again, so i'm going to replace the wheel bearing on the driver side, CV axle (for good measure) needle bearing, differential seal (mine seems to be leaking/wetting diff), and all the seals that are found on the cv axle itself.

If anyone can help me with part #'s for the seals on the axle itself i would greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do some calling around to see if i can get a complete parts list of all the stuff needed to replace cv axles, bearing etc. I have a few numbers right now, but i want to be more thorough in case anyone else has problems.

You can buy complete HUB assemblies here. Saves yourself an ass load of time, money and headaches. Make sure to get the seals while you're at it! Preventative maintenance! vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x2-prerunner-for-sale-complete-save.288055/

Part #'s
CV axle - 665235 (cardone #) 10298(autozone) Both sides are the same #
Needle Roller Bearing - 90364-35010 (Toyota Part #) This is for driver side.
Wheel Bearing - B30(timken) DL515040 (Autozone) Both sides are same part #
Differential Seal - 710419 (Timken) This is the seal that goes on/inside the differential
Oil Seal(s) - 710477 inner (towards differential)
710573 outer (towards wheel/hub bearing)

Thanks again @Chickenmunga for issuing the knowledge upon us with these pictures and part #'s

Like i said, I just want to be more thorough. I'm not an expert, but I do my own work and I can't stop learning. Thanks to all those that have contributed to this thread, hopefully, this will save someone some time in the future.
Click to expand...

I just bought some new oem cv axels. Do you by chance know if they will come with the new axel seal you spoke about replacing but just ended up using the old one?

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How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

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How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

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Products Discussed in Entire Site Forum: 2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015) Thread: How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

#461
Boulder Taco Well-Known Member

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Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

#463
Texas-Shrapnel Well-Known Member

#464
4WDTrout Perpetually dreaming of tall trees & rivers

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