How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Just did (most of) the 30K service, and your how-to for the spark plugs was a knuckle saver...many thanks for a crystal clear writeup. I did not read all 82 pages of this thread, so my apologies if this is a repeat: my only contribution is for those less nimble-fingered, instead of needle nose pliers to pull off or push on the wire harness plugs (especially driver's side), I used two large, long, flat blade screwdrivers. One to press the plug's center release point, and the other to pry the plug away, or to drag it in.

AS for Denso's on one bank and NGK's on the other, it's been mentioned that it may be Toyota's way of keeping their suppliers on their toes. Smart.

 

Just replaced mine and took all of hour and half thanks to your write-up. Thanks

 

Great write up. Just called the stealership and they advised you don't need to replace the iridium plugs up until 100k. I'm going to follow the manual and do it at 30k.

 

Thanks for the great write up, easy to follow and made me feel like a winner when I only took an hour and a half to finish.

 

...I'm a bit confused about the proper torque specs for the plugs... if the manual says "15 ft-lbs", ..does that apply to plugs installed with or without the anti-seize compound applied to threads?

...I installed mine using anti-seize compound on the threads, and I torqued it to 13 ft-lbs, ...is that bad?

 

Great thread/read pages 1-10 80-82

Anyone have any experience doing them on the SC engine.

 

Changed Spark plugs today....

Just right @ 2 hrs to complete everything...

Thanks for the great write up!!

DF .49 NGK
DM .50 NGK
DR .50 NGK

PF .48 Denso
PM .47 Denso
PR .48 Denso

 

Subbed. Coming up on my 60k service in a few months. Great write-up!

 

funny thing, brought the '11 AC to the dealership for a couple of items, seat belts mounts under a recall and a TSB on the DTRL...68k on the vehicle and I have done plugs at 40k and 60k. Dealer advised me plugs were do and they could do it for the bargin price of $228 plus applicable taxes, fees, service materials and such.

I politely declined, but will return next week for the DTRL replacement.

Howard

 

use swivels, and a few short extensions. Total pita if u have large hands

 

...some advice for folks looking to do this;
- a set of u-joints for your sockets (1/4" drive and 3/8" drive, ..and while you're at it just get a complete set and rest easy )
- a second set of extensions for your sockets (1/4" drive and 3/8" drive)
- a 3/8" drive to 1/4" drive reducer/adapter (...again, better yet get a whole set while you're at it )...

if it's your first plug change on this truck, you may encounter as I did, the bolts securing the coil packs to be on way too damn tight from the factory... I had to use my 3/8" drive wrench, reduced to 1/4" drive and socket, and a lot of muscle to get them off... I was trying to be gentle, as i was worried i'd break one of those small bolts... when re-installing the coil packs after plug change, I used anti-seize on the threads and tightened those small bolts down w/ the 1/4" drive wrench, using just a modicum of effort on the handle... (my torque wrench didn't have a setting low enough for the "recommended" torque on these)...

...also, the spark plugs, as installed from the factory, ...on way too tight as well, ..and/or they didn't use anti-seize... when re-installing these, put anti-seize on the threads, and torque to the recommended spec or just below (I did mine at 13 ft-lbs, ...but then how "accurate" is my cheap torque wrench?...)

 

Don't know where my post went. This are the original spark plugs, changed at 76,000 km. Great post Chris, thanks for the step by step tutorial.

 

I am about to hit 30k miles and will be doing my plugs in the next couple of weeks. I've called 3 dealerships in my area and all of them said they do not use anti-seize on the plugs when they put them in. Any thoughts on this? My fear is too much torque when using anti-seize.

Great write up btw.

 

My brother is a toyota tech and he said they don't use antiseize. Basically if you change them regularly you don't need it. Just don't run the same plugs for 100k.

That said, I used antiseize last time I did my plugs.

 

see comments from recent experience above, post #1634

 

good thread, very helpful. The tip about using two long flat screwdrivers really helped in removing the coil connectors on the drivers side.

I have a 2005 Prerunner (my 5th Toyota truck, I've owned every generation '71 '79 '85 '95 '05). 337K miles. The check engine light came on and I figured it was the spark plugs as the engine would misfire when starting up cold and I hadn't replaced them in years. Once it warmed up it was fine but the check light stayed on so I figured I should replace the plugs. The passenger side was easy, driver side not too bad thanks to this thread. About 1 1/2 hours total. The old plugs had good color, gaps were .089 to .092 (231,000 miles since last plug replacement in 2009). No wonder it was misfiring! Went with Iridium Autolites on sale, about $25 total cost (vs. $200 quoted to me by a couple places).

 

www.sparkplugs.com Is who i order from.

 

Well, this was interesting. I have a 2009 TRD DC with about 150K. NO IDEA when the plugs were last changes as we got it used earlier this year with 138K on it. I guess I'll be trying this soon.

 

Chris, just wanted to say thanks for this great write up. I followed it to the T and everything went smoothly. Took about 2 hours and I even had my lil helper "helping" me.
I went through a really tough time with job loss and having to adjust to lower income over the past few years. Things finally getting good again. Unfortunately, my truck took the brunt of the neglect. Long oil changes, and this was my very first plug change. I can confirm the Denso plugs on one side and the NGK on the other (very strange). I can also confirm that if you too go through some tough times your stock plugs will last 180k miles. I checked the gaps and they had wore down to .073. My truck runs sooo much better! Can wait to see the change in mileage!