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I have 30k miles on my Tacoma - I want to take it into the dealer

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by GunMetalSteak, Jul 29, 2010.

  1. Jul 29, 2010 at 7:42 AM
    #1
    GunMetalSteak

    GunMetalSteak [OP] Active Member

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    07' PreRunner SR5
    Hood scoop, side steps.
    What should I expect? What should I ask to get done? I did not do any of the other dealer check ups. I have been changing my oil every 3k miles and changing the air filter every 15k or so.

    thanks in advance.
     
  2. Jul 29, 2010 at 7:50 AM
    #2
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Seriously, you can do it yourself.
    Change diff fluid, xfer case and manual trans fluid. You just need the right tools and fluids.
    Open fill plugs before opening drain plugs.
    Search for more info. It's here.
     
  3. Jul 29, 2010 at 7:55 AM
    #3
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    I forgot to add:
    Lube prop shaft' ujoints, inspect suspension and cv joints for cracked boots and excessive play and cracked leaf springs.

    If you still want to take it to the dealer, they'll do all of that. If you can change oil, you can do it yourself.
     
  4. Jul 29, 2010 at 7:56 AM
    #4
    RideFast

    RideFast on the flats.

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    ...
    You mean the sealer!

    Here is a link to the factory service manual!
    http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

    Open up your owners manual service manual and do it yourself.
    Taking your truck to the stealer these days is a waste of time and $.

    Doing all this yourself will take no longer than a few hours!

    x2




     
  5. Jul 29, 2010 at 7:59 AM
    #5
    David Tarantino

    David Tarantino Well-Known Member

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    30000 MI or 48000 KM Diagnose/Test Disc Brake System (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Measure brake pad thickness and rotor thickness and runout. Inspect for signs of fluid leakage. Drum Brake System (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months whichever occurs first. Measure brake lining thickness. Inspect brake linings (shoes) and drums for scoring, burning, fluid leakage, broken parts and excessive wear. Inspect Ball Joint (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months, whichever comes first. Check the suspension and steering linkage ball joints for looseness and damage. Check all dust covers for deterioration and damage. Brake Hose/Line (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months, whichever comes first. Visually inspect brake lines and hoses for proper installation, chafing, cracks, deterioration and signs of leakage. Condenser HVAC (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months whichever occurs first. Inspect condenser for debris and signs of damage. Coolant (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months, whichever comes first. Inspect coolant and check system hoses and connections for corrosion and leaks. Evaporative Emissions Hose (E) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Inspect fuel tank vapor vent system hoses for damage, cracks and loose or leaking connections. Exhaust System (B) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months, whichever comes first. Visually inspect the exhaust pipes, muffler and hangers for cracks, deterioration and damage. Check for exhaust leakage. Fuel Filler Cap (E) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Inspect fuel tank cap gasket damage, cracks, looseness or leakage. Fuel Supply Line (B) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Inspect fuel lines for corrosion, damage, cracks and loose or leaking connections Fuel Tank Mounting Straps (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Inspect fuel tank band for corrosion, damage, cracks or looseness. Radiator (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months, whichever comes first. Inspect radiator and condensor core for debris and signs of damage. Steering (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months, whichever comes first. Check for excessive freeplay in the steering wheel. Inspect the linkage for bending and damage and dust boots for deterioration, cracks and damage. Inspect steering gear box condition. Steering Gear (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months whichever occurs first. Inspect steering gear box for signs of leakage. Suspension Control ( Automatic - Electronic Level ) (S) Initial inspection at 30,000 miles or 36 months; inspect every 15,000 or 18 months thereafter. Inspect active height control gas chamber, if equipped. Replace Air Filter Element (B) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months, whichever comes first. Engine Oil (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months whichever occurs first. Fluid - Differential (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 18 months whichever occurs first. Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip models, and check for signs of leakage. Oil Filter, Engine (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months whichever occurs first. Spark Plug (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 36 months whichever occurs first. Reset Oil Change Reminder Lamp (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months whichever occurs first. Reset the oil replacement reminder ("MAINT REQD") light after replacing engine oil, if vehicle is equipped with this light. Rotate Tires Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months, whichever comes first. Rotate tires. Check for damage and uneven wear. Tighten/Torque Body and Frame (S) Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months whichever occurs first. Re-tighten the seat mounting bolts and front/rear suspension member retaining bolts to specified torque. Perform in case of driving on dirt roads or dusty roads. Drive/Propeller Shaft (S) Tighten drive and propeller shaft bolts. Perform at mileage interval or every 6 months whichever occurs first. Perform in case of driving on dirt roads or dusty roads or in case of driving while towing.
    thats what alldata says to do
     
  6. Jul 29, 2010 at 8:26 AM
    #6
    GunMetalSteak

    GunMetalSteak [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Hood scoop, side steps.
    I've never changed my own oil. I wish I knew how. I am kinda of handy, but have never really worked on cars before.
     
  7. Jul 29, 2010 at 8:30 AM
    #7
    David Tarantino

    David Tarantino Well-Known Member

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    do a search on oil change youll get all the info you need:D
     
  8. Jul 29, 2010 at 8:32 AM
    #8
    jnoley07

    jnoley07 Well-Known Member

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    its very easy! there are diy write ups here, I will locate it for you. just be sure to drain the oil, not the tranny (if you have an Auto)
     
  9. Jul 29, 2010 at 8:33 AM
    #9
    jnoley07

    jnoley07 Well-Known Member

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  10. Jul 29, 2010 at 9:23 AM
    #10
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Doesn't hurt to have a friend over who's done it before to help you out also. Plus, friends usually work for pizza and beer vs the $500 the dealerships rape you for performing the 30k service.
     
  11. Jul 29, 2010 at 9:30 AM
    #11
    Barnone

    Barnone Guest

    Good advice, you beat me to it.
     
  12. Jul 29, 2010 at 9:37 AM
    #12
    RideFast

    RideFast on the flats.

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    ...
    also,
    your oil filter is on top to the engine, this makes the whole process way easier!



    x2
     
  13. Aug 3, 2010 at 5:44 PM
    #13
    GunMetalSteak

    GunMetalSteak [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    LA, CA
    Vehicle:
    07' PreRunner SR5
    Hood scoop, side steps.
    I have called several different dealers and only a couple have said the rear differential needs to be changed.
    I do not take it off road, I drive 40% on freeways and 60% city if that matters.

    Should I change the rear differential? Should I change the spark plugs? Some dealers are saying 90k...

    Thanks for the help.
     
  14. Aug 3, 2010 at 5:51 PM
    #14
    Dark_Taco

    Dark_Taco ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

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    It would be a good idea to change it out. Plugs too. Manufacture spec calls for 30k spark plug interval. 90k is too long to wait.
     
  15. Aug 3, 2010 at 6:07 PM
    #15
    surfsupl

    surfsupl Well-Known Member

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    Rear Diff Breather~ 5100's ~Fog Light Anytime~Tint~TRD Seat Covers~Weather Tech's~Pioneer H.U.~Lift~Eibach Springs~LED's......blah...blah...blah
    Do it yourself like others have said and save your hard earned money for something else...........
     
  16. Aug 4, 2010 at 2:04 PM
    #16
    RSH904

    RSH904 Well-Known Member

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    There is alot of differing opinions on the 30K service. I have seen several posts where it says that Front/Rear Dif oils should be changed/ As well as tran oil and also spark plugs. I just stopped by a respected mechanical shop I trust a bit ago and they told me that none of that was due at 30K. He told me he would take my money now if I wanted the tran/dif fluids changed and plugs changed. However he said that none of that is due until 60k. He even printed off the Mitchells service schedule showing 30K and 60K. Then he showed me in my Toyota service book the same thing. Only 30K on tranny fluid if its a stick. He said that spark plugs would probably last until 100k but its best to swap them at 60k. 30k is pretty much just oil change/cabin filter/engine air filter. Can anyone expand upon this/ explain why I should have some of this done now. My truck is pretty much a mall crawler/ has never been off road and I keep up very regularly on Synthetic Oil Changes.
    And im embarrassed but I have now idea what TSB is.........
     
  17. Aug 4, 2010 at 2:13 PM
    #17
    got_titan

    got_titan Well-Known Member

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    Tsb = technical service bulletin
     
  18. Aug 4, 2010 at 3:15 PM
    #18
    RSH904

    RSH904 Well-Known Member

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    gotcha, thx

    Why the hell do you have to change the spark plugs at 30K. Some vehicle are 100k on plugs. Why cant I get a straight answer anywhere about the plugs. Mitchells and my mechanic say 60K but Edmunds does say 30K.
     
  19. Aug 19, 2010 at 5:59 PM
    #19
    Kahunadave

    Kahunadave Well-Known Member

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    K&N CAI-series 63, custom Billet Grille, Magnaflow exhaust, AR Tactic 17x8, Toyo A/T opencountry 265/70/17, Iridium plugs.
    Just my 2 cents.. have the Major service work done at the dealer.. stuff that you can't "easily" do or that are Major components. Your Truck is still under Factory warranty.. and IF something goes wrong they'll want Proof the Required Maintenance has been done before they fix anything (if it relates to the failed part). Also..just so you know..you can pick certain things you want done from the "recommended" service menu.. at least the Service writer at the stealership i go to lets me do that. GL
     
  20. Aug 19, 2010 at 9:52 PM
    #20
    Peru

    Peru Well-Known Member

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    none

    I changed my plugs at 45K and they were out of spec. That they would keep working till 100K I have no doubt but it won't run at 100%. Is it better to run the engine with plugs that are in spec that is for sure.

    Do what you feel is best. Also, when I changed the front diff oil it was visually contaminated the rear was not nearly as contaminated. Could it have gone more miles probably. Did it hurt to change it not a chance.
     
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