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Installing extended brake lines

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Fox2011PM, Jun 4, 2017.

  1. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:38 AM
    #1
    Fox2011PM

    Fox2011PM [OP] "The Mountains are calling"

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    I have searched but cannot seem to find a write up or "how to" on swapping to extended brake lines. Can anyone provide a link to a nice write up. I am not confident on the "bleeding" process or specifics. I am upgrading to ADS extended travel coilovers and piggyback rears and Dakars, and wanting to get ahead of the install with my brake lines. Any help is appreciated, thanks
     
    AZPhys13 likes this.
  2. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:49 AM
    #2
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    As far as changing then is really just remove and replace. Bleeding them can take some knowledge. Always have someone help you. Start at the furthest point from the master cylinder: i.e. right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and repeat until all air is gone. Also don't push the pedal all the way in as you can tear the seal inside the master cylinder and then air can get into the booster and cause big problems. 1/2 to 3/4 pedal while pumping and holding it down about half way while you or someone opens the bleeder and close it before said someone releases the pedal
     
  3. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:51 AM
    #3
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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  4. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:56 AM
    #4
    Fox2011PM

    Fox2011PM [OP] "The Mountains are calling"

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    Thanks man, for the write-up and video.....damn good people here on TW
     
    Jacked Burton, yote, REDdawn6 and 5 others like this.
  5. Jun 4, 2017 at 9:58 AM
    #5
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    When you do it make sure the key is on and engine off
     
  6. Jun 4, 2017 at 10:06 AM
    #6
    Fox2011PM

    Fox2011PM [OP] "The Mountains are calling"

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    Will do, thanks again
     
  7. Jun 4, 2017 at 10:06 AM
    #7
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    You got it :thumbsup:
     
  8. Jun 4, 2017 at 10:09 AM
    #8
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    For the rears, drop the spare to give yourself room to work. Also, both rears are held by a bracket. Remove the bracket and the top of the lines will be much easier to work on.
     
  9. Jun 4, 2017 at 10:14 AM
    #9
    Fox2011PM

    Fox2011PM [OP] "The Mountains are calling"

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    Great! Thank you
     
  10. Jul 19, 2017 at 1:24 PM
    #10
    Jack0928

    Jack0928 Kind of a Well-Known Member

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    How did it go? Looking to do this
     
  11. Jul 19, 2017 at 1:28 PM
    #11
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    OP do you have a TRD OFF ROAD 4x4?

    If so bleeding is STUPID easy as you have the electric boosted master cylinder which will "self bleed". Simply replace the lines, then one at a time (keep an eye on fluid level in the master). Crack the bleeder, and then have someone lightly push on the brake pedal say half way, and keep their foot there. let fluid rush out as its being pushed by the electric pump until there is no air then shut the bleeder. Done. Its literally a 2 minute job.

    Now if you are not a 09+ TRD OR 4x4 you gotta resort to ye old, pump, crack, close, release method.
     
    Dryvah, BMWxTaco, bgutierrezx and 9 others like this.
  12. Mar 7, 2018 at 5:05 PM
    #12
    ready6delta

    ready6delta REGULAR GUY

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    So for a 2014 dcsb TRD sport i would Just swap out rear lines with extended lines and follow the video process? Wow seems just as easy.
     
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  13. Mar 11, 2018 at 5:20 PM
    #13
    ready6delta

    ready6delta REGULAR GUY

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    Finished my +4 extended lines from wheelers yesterday. If you can use a lift it helps with leverage and not having to be so flexible under truck. It is doable without but highly recommended.

    Also grab some rubber nipples for the hardlines Once you pull them out of rubber lines to keep the fluid from running everywhere.

    10 mm Flare nut wrench is your friend.

    Some extra rags for spillage and extra latex gloves.

    Long flathead screwdriver and hammer for the metal clips that hold lines in bracket helps to pop then off.

    Maybe a water bottle or empty milk jug for hoses to drain into.

    Patience and beer helps those flare nuts and the awkward angle of the top brackets sucks. You could possibly bend or flatten the top brackets to aid in the angle of this. Your call.

    Bleeding brakes like the video previously by low range worked great.

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    76C46F61-A48F-4FF3-A17A-CAF4EBB7675C.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018
  14. Mar 11, 2018 at 6:05 PM
    #14
    SoJersey

    SoJersey South Jersey Defense

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    This is good to know. I will be doing mine shortly. Thank you.
     
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  15. Nov 3, 2018 at 8:54 PM
    #15
    Chux

    Chux Pura Vida

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    Just got the same lines in the mail today. Will be installing tomorrow
     
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  16. Nov 4, 2018 at 6:28 AM
    #16
    ready6delta

    ready6delta REGULAR GUY

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    Nice man let me know if you have any questions. They go great with the B110.
     
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  17. Nov 4, 2018 at 6:37 AM
    #17
    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    wow, those are some long lines! I would suggest pulling them up out of the way somehow, so they are less likely to get snagged by a branch or something underneath. In the past I have used soft coil springs clamped to the lines, so they can still be stretched, but at rest are pulled up
     
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  18. Nov 4, 2018 at 12:41 PM
    #18
    fla_sun

    fla_sun Well-Known Member

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  19. Nov 4, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #19
    ready6delta

    ready6delta REGULAR GUY

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    Nope wheelers lines fit fine. They just have to go through top bracket enough to fit brake clip on and bracket back on.
     
  20. Nov 4, 2018 at 8:22 PM
    #20
    jross20

    jross20 Well-Known Member

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