Installing Overhead Garage Door/Gate Opener Button w/ a FOB Retrofit

What did you think of this switch panel? I'm currently using a cheaper 3D printed version that didn't really snap into place and my switches are more recessed than those in the OEM panels

 

If I were putting it in the overhead panel next to my locker switch/crawl control this is exactly what I would have done!

Mine is a much older 12v Overhead Door remote, so it's a little on the chunky side. I pulled it apart, soldered the wires I needed, screwed the case back together, and ran a zip tie to keep the pressure from the wires from pulling on the small screw that holds it all together.

Only slightly looks like an IED, but it's hidden in my dash.

My remote only has one button, and the way I soldered the wires retains full control of the remote because I did my soldering on the back side of the opener to leave the factory switch in place. I can reprogram my remote via my dash switch OR the remote if I pulled it from the dash.

These are the only pictures I have of doing the wiring/soldering and the blue factory switch is circled in red. Flip it over and I've circled the two contact points that I soldered the wires to.

One wire for each contact point of the switch. So when the opener has power, you can push the button, or you can take the two soldered wires and touch them together achieving the exact same outcome just bypassing the button. I then wired those two contact point wires to my dash switch. The other two wires are power and ground to replace my 12V battery.

 

I love this forum, everyone's so incredibly helpful and willing to explain things in so much detail.

I appreciate the insight! Gonna start tinkering with things and see what I can come up with!

 

Happy to help man!

If you have any questions I'm sure anyone in this thread can probably help answer them or at least point you in the right direction

 

Good thing I put the case back on to tone it down a little

 

I had no problems with this switch panel. It's performing as designed. FYI, I opted for the 2 switch panel, because the 3 switch panel requires modifying the overhead console.

 

I liked the setup.

 

That is a nice clean install!

 

Thanks! No problems whatsoever!

 

Time to revisit this myself.

We just moved and I replaced the old unit in the house we just bought with a much newer Chamberlain belt drive opener with WiFi. Which means unfortunately I can't use my older Overhead Door CodeDodger remote that I currently have wired into my dash switch.

The compatibility chart says they should work but I've spent a ridiculous amount of time this weekend trying to program it with no luck. I also had an extra of the same remote that I tried to program just to verify it wasn't my dash switch causing the problem and couldn't get it either. Chalking that up to the old remotes won't work even though the MHz frequencies overlap.

I'm now on the hunt for a 12v universal remote that I can rewire in place of my old one to work with the new Chamberlain. Seems like most openers use 3v coin batteries, and I'd like to avoid a stepdown in voltage if possible. This is still one of my most useful mods to date, so it's worth the effort/cost to make it work with the new setup.

 

Did you call Chamberlain or email them for assistance?

 

I haven't. New Chamberlain opener, old legacy Overhead Door remote. Different "types" of code blasting/selection, but have a frequency overlap. I'm going to try a few different procedures later that I've read about today, but if that doesn't work I'd almost bet they are incompatible.

 

okay, this may be a stupid question but, I have bought the step down and have identified the button terminals for the switch, and the +positive terminal for the battery, but where do I ground the battery or does it do it thru the step down negative lead to chassis?