MORE Twin ARB + 1 Gallon Tank Bracket Install Overview and Impressions

I haven't found a lot of information on the MORE mounting bracket for an ARB twin with a 1 gallon tank under the hood so I wanted to share my experiences and my install.

For starters, here's the kit: https://mountainoffroad.com/collect...sor-and-1-gallon-tank-for-toyota-tacoma-gen-3

The bundle pricing on its own is very good. I happened to also get it on a flash sale which sealed the deal for me.

You may be asking yourself if you need the 1 gallon air tank. The short answer is no, especially if all you're doing is filling tires or if you're running air lockers. It was appealing to me for a few reasons. 1) For mountain biking, seating tubeless tires can be a pain. Having a gallon of air pressurized to 150 psi can make a huge difference with stubborn tires. That's how I do it at home (with a trim-sized air compressor), so this will give me that ability if I have to put a new tire on while we are on the road. 2) Maaayyybe for running some air tools. Though I don't think this is really enough air volume to make that worth while. Maybe for some finish nail gunning. 3) Technically it's better for a compressor to fill a tank first, then have the tank fill the tires. The reason being that the shrader valves in your tires can flow less air than your compressor can produce. So if your compressor fills the tank, then your tank fills the tires (at a lower flow rate), your compressor runs more efficiently. That said, this is absolutely not mandatory and ARB even says it's fine to hook your compressor up directly to your tires as long as you aren't doing "more than a few."

So, to cut to the chase, here is my final install. I am pairing this with with an @Shellshock style dual inflator setup: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shellshocks-diy-inflator-deflator.613122/


I went back and forth on whether or not to plumb in quick connects that could be accessed at the front and rear bumpers. Ultimately I decided not to for a couple reasons. First, I think the compressor will be happier running with the hood open. Keeping the quick connect under the hood will force me to open the hood to use it. Second, running air lines all over the place creates more opportunities for something to go wrong. Leaks, broken lines, bungled up fittings. Things I don't want to deal with on the trail. For those reasons, though it's more annoying to have to open the hood to use it, it simplifies the overall system.

Some other caveats: I'm not running any check valves, water traps, pressure gauges, pressure relief valves, or any of that crap. Why not? The long and short of it is I don't think I need to. The ARB compressor has a built in pressure switch that shuts it off at 150 PSI. If that malfunctions, it could burn up the compressor, but I can also just turn it off if it won't stop running. I don't care how much pressure it's making. I can check that with my tire inflator gauge too. It's not running that often, so I don't expect much water, and I'm also only filling tires so I don't really care if there's a little moisture in the tank. And I'm only holding 1 gallon of air temporarily, so if it leaks back against the compressor I don't really care. Plus ARB doesn't seem to think that matters. So simple is the name of the game.

Okay let's get down to details. The kit comes with the mounting bracket and all the hardware you need to install it. It comes with exactly one fitting, it's a 1/4" NPT to -04 AN elbow. Why does it come with that particular fitting? Because that fitting will fit in the compressor AND under the hood. And also, -04 AN is the fitting size that ARB uses on their hoses.

So what else do you need? Well if you are running air lockers, you may want to get a manifold kit. I'm not covering that, so you'll have to figure that out on your own.

What you will need are some air lines to connect the compressor to the tank, and a quick connect on the outlet from the tank. And the easiest way to connect them is to use the ARB air lines that already have -04 AN fittings on the ends. I got these 1/2 meter long ones: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ories/0740202-arb-hose-reinforced-jic-04-0-5m and this quick connect: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/compressor-mounts-accessories/0740111-arb-air-hose-coupling Note that the quick connect that I linked works with -04 AN fittings! No adapters needed.

Alright let's get this show on the road. The MORE kit comes with some pretty basic instructions with some okay pictures: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0016/7850/8143/files/ARBTACO3_instructions.pdf. The bracket itself is very well made and well thought out. The powder coating is thick (real thick), and the hardware is all there. Overall, I give the kit an 8/10.

Step 0) Pre-assemble the bracket and check the clearance of the slot and the compressor mount plate. On my kit the powder coating was REEEEaaaaal Thiccc. It took quite a bit of back and forth to finally wear off just enough powder coating to get it to slide in. I also had to ream out one of the bolt holes for attaching the compressor plate to the mounting bracket. Do yourself a favor and check these out before you mount it into your truck.

Pic below shows the powder coating I had to wear off to get the compressor mounting plate to slide into the slot of the mounting bracket. Note, that isn't down to bare metal. Just the outer, glossy black part of the powdercoating had to be worn through.


Step 1) Rotate the pre-installed tank fittings approximately 180 degrees. I found that what works best is to have the fitting that is closest to the passenger fender rotated slightly aft, toward the firewall. For the fitting closest to the engine I rotated it slightly fore, toward the bumper. This makes attaching the airlines a lot easier in a few steps.

Passenger fender side of tank:


Engine side of tank:


Step 2) Install the tank on the mounting bracket using the provided hardware.


Step 3) Install the air lines onto the tank fittings, and install the tank bracket into the truck (follow MORE's instructions). Note: Make sure you use an appropriate thread sealer for AN fittings like Loctite 545 for these fittings. Normal thread sealer will not work. And make sure you allow it to cure completely before pressurizing!


Step 4) Mount your compressor to the mounting plate with the provided hardware. I've got nothing to add here. Just follow MORE's instructions.



Step 5) Make your electrical connections and run your wiring. I'm not going to go into much detail on this. Your compressor will come with all the wiring and schematics you need. It has built in relays and fuses. All you really need to do is hook up the correct wires to the correct wires of your switch. I had already pre-run wires into the cab and had a switch wired up, so I just had to connect those wires to the correct ARB wires and I was done. I ran everything in wire loom and zip tied it across the fire wall. I left a nice big service loop that sits behind the air comrpessor which makes it really easy to pull the compressor out if needed. I didn't shorten the ARB harness at all.


Step 6) Mount the compressor mounting plate onto the bracket using the supplied hardware. Here is where your Step 0 will come in. If you did your homework then this will be easy. If not, you will fight it.


Step 7) This is a bit confusing following MORE's instructions. Basically, where the air fitting comes out of the compressor can be rotated, and needs to be rotated for the fitting to clear the hood. To do this, there is a bolt head that you can access with a 10mm wrench through the opening by the air fitting. Loosen that, install the fitting, and then rotate the fitting over. Note: Use normal thread sealant for the side of the fitting going into the air compressor (NPT thread). MORE shows the fitting pointing towards the firewall. I positioned mine pointing toward the bumper. My reasoning was that I didn't want to run a potentially hot air line near my electrical bundle. Once you've got your fitting positioned - tighten that cap bolt using the 10mm wrench through the slot.


Step 8) Connect your air hose from the tank to the compressor. Connect your quick connect to the hose from the tank. Again, use AN appropriate thread sealer for these connections.



Step 9) Find some way to mount your hose. My first version was just using some 1/2" cable clamps and some self-tappers through the plastic. This seemed adequate but not exactly robust.


More recently, I 3D printed up a quick connect holder that mounts on top of the washer fluid reservoir using that bolt. This seems to do the trick a little better, and also protects the quick connect from dirt and gunk. If anyone wants this model I'm happy to share it as long as you promise to keep the silly Snake Tails logo on it.


If you don't want to do that, there are lots of things to zip tie to, or just stuff it into a crevice. You may have to get creative here

Step 10) Have a celebratory drink of your choosing.

Happy trails!

 

Nice job on the write-up! A compressor is on my short list of to-dos.

 

Yeah I’m pretty pumped for this setup! (I’ll see myself out...)

 

can someone answer this question? if I was make a 4-way inflator system and have a viair 450p auto, and lets say 1 tire is 2 less psi than the other 3, and I preset a certain PSI, how will that 1 tire match with the other 3 if that 1 tire is 2 less psi? hopefully this is not a confusing question. thanks in advance!

 

let me try. Like water, air goes directly to the path with the least resistance. So basically it will inflate more on the tire with the lowest pressure until it equalizes on all 4 tires then all 4 gets similar amount of air

 

The M.O.R.E. bracket and ARB Twin compressor works great in my 2020 Pro!

 

Great write up @tacomarin! Guessing you keep the tank empty most of the time and fill it up when needed. How long does it take to fill up the tank? Also, does a single tank bring all 4 tires back to pressure? Or does it take a couple tanks worth? Do you use the same hose when putting air into your bike tires? Finally, do you release the air out of the tank when the job is finished?

 

The tank stays full, or at whatever pressure it ends up at when I'm done filling up. I'm not too worried about trucking around 150 psi. 1 gallon of air at 150 PSI is not all that much air, definitely not enough to fill up a tire, so the compressor turns on pretty much immediately. A gallon at 1500 psi might get you there . The compressor runs continuously while I'm filling up, but the benefit in this type of setup is the compressor only has to fill the tank with a 1/4" hose, which in turn fills up the tires through the more restrictive schrader valve. So in theory the compressor isn't working as hard and it should fill a bit faster. For the bike tires, yes I use the same hose. I use presta-schrader adapters

$7 Brass Presta Valve Adaptor (Pack of 5 + 10 Caps) - Convert Presta to Schrader for All Types of Bikes, e-Bikes, and e-Scooters - Inflate Tire Using Standard Pump or Air Compressor - by Mobi Lock

like these

 

Awesome write up! I definitely want to add the M.O.R.E. bracket when I install my OBA just because I want to add the tank. I don’t think I need it but it doesn’t hurt at all so why not.

Reading the description on the M.O.R.E. bracket, however, it states it doesn’t work with CA Emissions vehicles. I live in CA and bought my truck here. Is that actually the case or does it work fine?

 

That would be news to me. I’m also in CA with a CA purchased truck. Mines a 2018 so there is a possibility they changed something. What’s it look like under your hood in that spot?

 

very nice. i love that the arb compressor comes with the cool rocker switch

im doing the in grill bracket install for the twin compressor today or tomorrow.

 

Here’s a few photos (I’ve never added photos before so I hope it works). There is a random horn/speaker looking thing in that area and I don’t know what that is. It’s seems to have a little bit if extra wiring so I can probably move it if needed slightly. Hope these photos can help you help me!

 

I'm not 100% sure because I don't have any before photos of the area, but looking back through the photos in my post I think I see all the same things. So far so good for me!

 

You should be good here. this area doesn't have the standard ABS brake module. TRD Pro and Off-Road have the booster with the ABS module on the Driver's side.

FWIW, I don't think it's about CA emissions but more about the brake setup. The ABS pump is mounted at this location on non 4wd offroad models, all the 4wd offroads use a combination abs pump/master cylinder/brake booster instead of the standard donut booster. Found with picture here.

 

Thank you for the responses. I was thinking I’d be good to go but always great to get insight from those with experience. Gotta love TW; best forum I’ve ever been a part of!

Definitely going to get this ordered soon along with MORRFlate. Was thinking about going with the wifey system but I think mounting an ARB connector on the front bumper and running the SPOD, I can just hop out, connect the MORRFlate and air up/down easier without opening the hood as I would have to with the wifey system.

 

I like that idea, and I might run something on the bumper too. @PcBuilder14 found a nice spot up front here, and here's my setup for the rear. RAGO also has a Wifey system found .

 

Just ‘finished’ my install today. Took about a week because I didn’t have the foresight to order the lines and fittings. And the wife and I welcomed our first baby! Now just waiting on the loctite to cure before I can test it out. I’ll post pics tomorrow but for now I zip tied the arb coupler to the grille while I wait for my BAMF hybrid to be built. I’ll decide then whether to keep the coupler on the grille or drill and install on the bumper. Overall I’m really impressed with the M.O.R.E bracket and it’s fitment.

 

Did you have any fitment issue with the Mountainoffroad kit on your 22? I was told directly, it will not fit for the 20+ due to ac line location and hesitate to buy for my 21.

 

The only fitment issue I had was I needed to remove that horn/speaker looking thing along the right apron, bend the bracket slightly and reinstall it. It would’ve fit anyway but this way it won’t rub against the M.O.R.E. bracket. The ac line is close but not of any concern.

 

Any chance you can snap a pic of the AC line? And, what did you do with the horn/speaker?

@TheIncredibleTaco