OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

I can’t remember from the last time I removed the bracket but if you can simply unbolt it just do that.

 

Ended up unbolting it, and then had to use a hook to undo the locking tab (which was strong enough to bend the hook). I came to the conclusion that the instructions are kind of... bad. Lots of "install Thing 1, then install Thing 2" only to find that Thing 1 prevents you from being able to access Thing 2. At least it's installed now. Just gotta finish the wiring and test it out.

 

Made a thread about my compressor wire melting. Has anyone seen something similar?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/arb-compressor-wire-melting.793977/

 

Def check the fuse ratings as suggested in that thread, but assuming it's the OEM 40A fuses, that def says there was a defect in the connection points or in the wire itself in that stretch.

 

Finished up the wiring for the ARB twin and got it working. So much nicer than dealing with the little portable thing I had. I want to install a switch to the left of the steering wheel, but the switch ARB includes doesn't fit the holes, so I'm going to order up a CH4X4 switch for it.

Is what I've drawn below the correct way to splice the wires?

[Image Removed, See Post #2396]

 

I updated that thread but forgot to post here; they are the factory 40a fuses and wiring harness.

 

Did you check the wire connections to see if something was loose or pinched?

 

Yes, the rest looks fine.

 

I'm also going to use a switch by ch4x4 so thanks for the post.
Going with a small switch in the lower center dash area just above the cup holders.

 

Have you done that before? If not it’s pretty involved since you have to remove everything from the radio left including the threshold, kick panel, dead pedal, instrument cluster cover, lower dash panel, and center console & shifter section just to get at that panel. When I did it I lined up several other mods to do at the same time. I also set up a daisy chained harness so I can add switches in the future without having to remove more than just the center console and shifter section.

 

No, thanks for the info.

 

Just following up on this before I wire up the CH4x4 switch this afternoon or tomorrow. Green (to red/yellow) on the CH4x4 switch gets an inline fuse (3 amp), and red (to red) does or doesn't need a relay? (From what I read in another thread, the ARB Twin has an internal relay so adding one isn't required?)

 

Color coding isn’t consistent for different switch vendors so double check which is the switch output wire on your CH4X4 switch, which is the switch input wire, and which is the switch illumination input wire. The fuse should be on the input wire that feeds the switch at the wire source. Either an add-a-fuse on your dash fuse panel or an auxiliary fuse panel if you add one of those. I’d recommend against tapping a 12v wire and burying an in-line fuse randomly behind the dash.
Tacoma switches are dimmed on the ground side and it’s not really a ground but a variable voltage instead so if you want dimming you need to connect the black switch wire to the dash illumination (-). Dash illumination (+) will light the switch with headlights on and using chassis ground(not dimming) or dash illumination (-)(dimming). Any other 12V source will illuminate the switch constantly according to always hot or ignition hot source.
If you want the compressor to only operate with the engine running then tap an ignition hot source for the switch supply.
If you want anytime operation then use an always hot circuit such as door locks instead.

 

Deleted my earlier response after I realized I should probably explain better. I revised the drawing I made (see below), so it hopefully makes more sense. The questions I have are:

(1) Since I'm using a 12V 7.5A fuse under the dash (lowest available) and a switch that's rated at 12V 3.0A, should I (A) not worry about it or (B) insert a 3.0A inline fuse between them to protect the switch or (C) use a 3.0A fuse instead of the 7.5A fuse on the Add-A-Fuse (for the switch)? I'm presuming that A isn't ideal because the fuse is rated for more than double the amps of the switch, and C isn't good because the fuse I'm tapping into is designed to have 7.5A fuse(s) plugged into it.

(2) CH4x4's switch packaging has a big sticker on it that says "Always use with relay! Wire melts!" But... there already is a relay in the compressor, so I don't need to add another relay between the compressor and the switch, right?

Basically just trying not to set my dash on fire and/or have my compressor shit the bed due to me screwing something up.

[Image Removed, See Post #2396]

 

Fuses protect the wire downstream so you’ll need a 3A fuse to supply the switch. If it’s with an add-a-fuse then the 7.5A fuse goes in one slot(feeds original circuit) and the 3A fuse goes in the other(feeds added circuit). Pay attention to the orientation of add-a-fuses(which end the wire comes off of), one orientation puts the fuses in series and the other puts them in parallel. You want parallel and you also need to verify the correct fuses are in each slot(added fuse lines up with the wire). You’ll know they’re in series if both relays have to be installed to get power to the wire.
You don’t need an additional relay if the switch is only used to trigger an existing one. All of these aftermarket taco console switch housings use a similar switch inside and they’re pretty dinky so yes, unless the accessories is VERY low power I always use them to activate a relay.

 

Thanks for the help, @bagelboy. Worked perfect. I deleted the old graphics I uploaded so as not to confuse anybody. For anybody who's interested's reference, this is how it's wired up on my 2nd gen.

 

Looks like you have it wired so the switch lights up when on only(that led is powered from switch output). If you don’t want that simply disconnect the black switch wire. It’s only use is grounding or dimming the two illumination leds.

 

Hope this is okay here. Figured since it was the megathread I’d be okay. You guys probably know all of the different gadgets and things for onboard air so I wanted to ask for any tips here. Note that I don’t want to run lines to each wheel. At most a quick connect on each side though.

Here's where I have my compressor mounted. I could just slap in a quick connect underneath but it’s going to be a hassle to get to. Also want them out of the way a bit so I don’t snap them off on accident.

 

Looking for some help from the TW crowd who has experience installing an ARB twin compressor under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall. I've read back in this entire thread and searched around but not finding answers, and before I start fabbing my own solution I wanted to ask those who might have first-hand experience.

Wondering if anyone has successfully fit/modified an off-the-shelf ARB dual compressor 3rd gen bracket to fit in a 2.5 gen. Examples would be the M.O.R.E., Slee, To my eyeballs it seems the inner fender mount on the wheel well is the same shape/pattern, and the vertical part of the fender also has the same bolt patterns. Relocating that Denso module won't be an issue but I still have the SAIS which seems like major problem #1, and possibly those AC lines are problem #2, but otherwise it appears so close I can't believe an existing off-the-shelf products couldn't work for my configuration.

The problem is I can't easily get dimensions from the vendors and I can't tell from photos how close everything fits up. I took photos of mine which most people probably already know what it looks like. But just curious what the hive mind thinks about how close it looks (or if I'm chasing my own tail). Thanks in advance for any insights!

 

Bumping this back up…..

Got a question…..

Currently running an on board compressor set up as an open system - simple on/off switch, no pressure switch, no tank, single air line to the bed with a male quick connect fitting.

I wanna change it up to tankless closed system because I would like to add a second air line to the front bumper.

My plan is to add a pressure switch off the “out” side of the compressor with a T fitting and wire it between the switch and pin 86 on the compressor relay.

I’m gonna run a PTC T fitting off the compressor “out” side on the other side of the pressure switch T. I’ll run one air line to the front of the truck and I’ll plumb the existing rear air line into the other side of the PTC T. I’ll change the rear quick connect to a female and also add a female quick connect to the front air line.

My question is what PSI on/off pressure switch should I use?

I’ve set up air ride and shit in vehicles before, but they’ve all had tanks. This would be the first tankless system.

We’ve always used 110/145psi switches for air ride.

I’m just using the compressor to inflate tires, so it be compressor will never see anything over 50psi most likely.


To me, what I described above makes sense, right?