OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Do you have any unused connectors behind any of the blanks? If so, I would remove the (2) lighting terminals from the connector and plug the (2) terminals for the lighting into your new connector. That way, it is reversible and doesn't require any tapping, cutting or soldering.
If not, BensonX gave you some good tips.

 

Thanks CtryBoy.

Just started this today. Didnt have much time, but i fitted one of the heatpads to the mirror, changed the FJ mirror light to Oznium amber instead of weird blue that comes on it...and thats it...at least i finally started

Quick question, is it really safe to ground the heated mirror on the door? Although I guess all it takes is to check it with multimeter, ground the mirror first, and then do a continuity check from somewhere else, but still curious

 

I don't think there is any safety concern. It tested fine, and I haven't had any issues whatsoever.

 

Absolutely safe. All the factory electronics ground at or near the installed location.
Just a caution, though. A lot of bolts are not really attached to a good metal ground. Most are supported by plastic rivet nuts, or the appliance it's holding is made of a non-conductive material and the bolt itself is over the paint. Never getting a "Good" ground. Although you usually get a reading of "0" ohms (direct ground). Ohm meters only use a small Milli-volt or less to determine conductivity. Once you pull real power through that ground (with an electrical accessory), though, it can't flow enough amps through them and can't get enough amps to your accessory. You need to visually look at how the bolt attachment structure is attached to the chassis. Most of the screws/bolts in my Tacoma door were this way and only a handful were "good" chassis grounds. Don't let the size of the bolt fool you. The large bolts that hold the window track looked and ohm'd good, but since the track was non-conductive and the paint on the door, it wasn't going to work. the only reason it would ohm out was the one or two threads that happened to contact the bare metal on the sides of the hole in the door metal itself. Choose a good one or just run the ground back into the cab. Either way will make no difference as long as its a good chassis ground.

 

Good points and advice. Now you're making me second guess myself. I know the bolt I chose was metal-on-metal, and gave a good reading, but that could be due to the threads making contact with the metal inside the hole, as you mentioned. One quick solution to increase peace of mind would be to strip the surrounding paint to increase conductivity. I might do this soon, but as of know it tests and works fine, so as the saying goes: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

 

Yeah, I finally tested that one mirror I've done couple of day ago. Grounded on the door and took power from the fuse panel...It worked no problems Unfortunately project is not going super fast for me, because of our new born, and also the fact that I paint mirrors black when they are off the car.

BTW anybody tried Plasti Dip here? We at fjcruiserforums are in love with it, gives you matte black, and in case you don't like it comes off like vinyl when dries

 

I haven't used plasti-dip on anything yet....but yeah, most of TW pretty much bathes in the stuff.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/detailing/124474-plasti-dip-mega-thread.html

 

I'm still WIP, but all mirrors now have heat pads installed and wired inside the cabin, blacked out and with new orange lights instea of stupid blueish OEM ones.

Anyways, I have understanding of bosch relays, but could somebody explain why 30 is connected to 86? I know it works, I just wanted to know why and how . I assume it is probably because of how the OEM switch works.

 

First off, it is not really the OEM switch, specifically. It's for "any" switch not designed to handle full power of an appliance. Imagine if you didn't have a starter relay, the battery cable ~1/2" diameter would need to be fed into the interior of the vehicle (probably would be even larger due to the amp loss running such a long cable). Also, the key switch would be absolutely massive to handle the ~200 amps required to start the vehicle.

Hopefully this helps visualize without totally causing confusion.
The red +12v lead coming from the fused circuit is a supply run for power (called a 'home run' in electricians lingo).
The red circle where it branches off into (3) outputs is really just a power distribution block for all intensive purposes. This makes 3 independent power runs that you can work with. Since electricity flows in the path of least resistance, each branch is isolated from shorts and current draw from the other branches.
The relay retains this isolation of the power draw for the appliance from the switch. This way the switch only needs to flow the required amps to energize the magnet field (Milli-amp or less) that "flips" the switch between 30 and 87. The brunt of the amps (4 amps in this case) flows through the relay and (since it uses a magnetic field) never contacts the 86 or 85 terminals and the switch is "oblivious" and doesn't care what the relay is flowing from 30 to 87.

So the answer: Both 30 and 86 need power and since they were separated prior to the relay they are allowed to flow amps at independent rates. Each terminal has two different functions but both require the +12v power.

 

I've had my install finished for quite a while now and just haven't had time to post. They work awesome! I followed Benson X's tutorial pretty closely. Although I skipped using the quick connectors and used shrink tube butt connectors instead.

The only real tip I can give anyone is to follow Benson X's shopping list and buy everything online from the links provided. I am a mechanic myself, so I thought I'd get some of the stuff locally through my own contacts. I have a friend at my local Toyota dealer who got me the plug housing, switch and bulb for about 50% of retail up here. The pins were $8 each even at his cost. I got the pins from goufcustom. Thanks buddy! Stuff like wire and connectors were easy as I have tons of extra at work. By the time I was done messing around trying to get everything together, I would have been better buying the major components from the original shopping list on this thread. Good luck!

 

Benson, just wanted to check in to say my final thanks I've got everything connected and it all works and is pretty awesome. However I'm not very happy with Burco heat pads since they don't cover the whole mirror, will swap those to either JDM FJ Heated mirrors or Muth made mirrors. The hardest part is the switch and wiring and it is done and would have not been possible without your write up and help of CtryBoyInMT.

Thanks!

 

You're welcome Gromov and others who successfully installed their heated mirrors. After all, that's the beauty of TacomaWorld! TWFTMFW!!!!

 

Does anyone have any ideas about how you can mount this switch if you bought the TRD off road model and don't have any of the slots available. My truck has the fog light button, DAC, RSCA, traction control, RR diff, and the bed power switch. I was thinking of sacrificing the dash light brightness dial since I never use it, but its got a different housing, so the new switch won't fit.
I was hoping that I could dremel out a hole, in the lower part of the dash, but after I got it off, I realized that it is far outside of my skill set to do that and create a mounting bracket on the inside of the dash panel.
I'm willing to forego the OEM timer switch at this point and am considering a simpler on/off switch, but then I'm not sure how it would be wired, since that switch would only have an in/out wire available.
I'm also considering losing the traction control button and stuffing it behind the dash (so it wouldn't be permanent).
Anyone have thoughts on this?

 

Hey man. Muth sell wiring harness with timer for heated mirrors. Check out their website, few folks installed it on their fjs at our forum.

 

Thanks Gromov

I checked it out, but I don't think they have what I need. I just ended up going with a illuminated toggle switch from O'Reilly/Kragen and dremeled out a hole next to the fuse cover for a single switch. It looks good, but not OEM good. I don't think I could have foregone any of the 6 switches that I paid for as expensive accessories from Toyota.

The toggle switch made things considerably simpler, as I didn't have to use the relay. I spent a while (I don't have an electrical background) reading CtryBoyInMT's posts and diagram trying to understand the connections between the various elements. All I did was use the fuse tap to power into the switch, the power out of the switch was the single wire/quick splice to the mirrors, and lastly the ground. For the rest I followed Benson X's instruction.

On the other hand, I have the OEM timer switch for the Sienna, the switch plug, the terminals already seated with wires in the plug, and a relay for sale. (plus the extra bulb for the switch) PM me if you're interested. I'll be considerably cheaper than the store.

Thanks Bensen X, CtryBoyInMT, and Gromov!
Works great.

 

I just scored the whole Muth kit on eBay new for $30.00! I'm looking at getting the Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch Part No. 84871-48030. Anyone know what year Highlander that switch is for. Thinking I might be able to find a donor switch in one of the local bone yards.

 

I researched, documented and copied the install using a 2003 Highlander Non-Hybrid model as a reference. It falls into the 1st Gen model 2000-2007. But may be carried over to some 2Gen 2007½-2010. You'll have to research.

 

I just wanted to say thanks to Benson for this thread. I used it to help me install/wire up heated 4runner mirrors.

If anyone needs the white plug for the Highlander heated mirror switch, I have one. Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch plug Part No. 90980-10789

Just pm me and send a couple bucks through paypal and I can get it shipped out asap.

Thanks!
Darci

 

Thanks Darci

I just finished my CB install write-up. Some of you may find it useful
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/223025-hidden-cb-install-pics.html

 

If I have the muthco heated and signal mirror install with a crapy switch that muthco provided in the package, can I use the part number 84871-48030 to replace the muthco swich, since it has a resistor solid between two terminals, if I use the 4 runner switches, is it just plug and play or I have to do some mod. Thanks for any help.