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OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Benson X, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. Jun 20, 2012 at 3:05 PM
    #81
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    You shouldn't have any problem with that switch. I found many answers to my questions in this original thread (El Cheapo Heated Mirrors: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/15958-el-cheapo-heated-mirrors.html)

    Also, CtryBoyInMT's wiring diagram should help:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sep 3, 2012 at 11:08 AM
    #82
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    where i can purchasing the 5 pin plug for the OEM heat mirror switch?

    Also where i can get the timer?
     
  3. Sep 4, 2012 at 5:23 AM
    #83
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Everything you need is in the OP, just click the blue part # (or write it down and go to your dealer to get it). The switch has a built-in timer.
     
  4. Sep 4, 2012 at 11:03 AM
    #84
    Mikehole

    Mikehole Well-Known Member

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    TRD Supercharger, Toytec 3" Ultimate Lift w/ 285/75/16s and planning on OBA for sometime in the future. Also thinking about the HWMS and a Warn 8000 for it.
    I still have an unused plug, with the leads and pin connecters soldered onto the leads.
    (I couldn't use the one I bought because all my plug spaces are filled up with other stuff, so I used a switch without a relay.)
    If you're interested, PM me. I'll be cheaper than the interwebs.

    Its the same OEM part # as recommended in the first page. My understanding is that the timer is in the OEM switch, which I also have, if you're interested.

    Edit: Sold it all
     
  5. Sep 17, 2012 at 7:15 AM
    #85
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Nice write up!
     
  6. Sep 17, 2012 at 8:20 AM
    #86
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    subscribe for future mod :thumbsup:
     
  7. Sep 29, 2012 at 3:25 PM
    #87
    Sigo

    Sigo Active Member

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    So, I've checked my wiring so many times it isn't funny. I can't get this working to save my life. I believe I've got it all connected correctly but can't get the swith to work. The switch lights up with the headlights on and the dimmer works without issue. Pin three on the switch has a good ground.

    With the relay connected, and the switch disconnected, I'm seeing 12V on both pins 4 and 5 that connects to the switch. Is that right? If not, what would cause that?

    With the switch connected and the relay disconnected I see 12V at pin 5 on the switch. I also see 12V on pin 4 at the relay pig tail. I've tried several relays (AGT 30/40A 12V SPDT). I'm racking my brain here. Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  8. Sep 29, 2012 at 3:43 PM
    #88
    WheelinJ91

    WheelinJ91 Well-Known Member

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    Airaid Intake, MBRP Exhaust, Toytec OME 3" lift w/AAL, Flip-kit, LR UCA's, Weathertech Floor mats, hood and window deflectors.
    Nice Job, I must do this to my 12' no mirror defrost was one of probably only 3-4 things i dont like about my truck.

    Sub'd for later

    Edit: Wonder if the mirrors will work on a 2012 Tacoma?
     
  9. Sep 29, 2012 at 8:24 PM
    #89
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    On the relay: do you have Terminal 85 connected to Pin 4 on the switch plug? You shouldn't be reading 12v on pin 4 of switch or 85 on the relay.
     
  10. Sep 29, 2012 at 10:14 PM
    #90
    Sigo

    Sigo Active Member

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    Pin 4 is a single straight shot to 85 on the relay. No other wires tapped in, etc.
     
  11. Sep 29, 2012 at 10:59 PM
    #91
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    It sounds like you've got it wired up right. Just to confirm, the switch lights up when pressed and dims with the dimmer switch, but you've got no heat at the mirrors?

    I know you've checked the circuit already, but just to be sure:

    On the switch:

    Pins 1&2 go directly to the illumination wires
    Pin 3 is ground
    pin 4 goes to 85 on the relay
    pin 5 goes to relay 86 & 30, and also taps into the fuse-tap

    Both mirrors are grounded separately with the POS spliced together and run to 87 on the relay. 87a (middle terminal) is not used on the SPDT relay.

    It could just be a bad switch too :notsure:

    Another member was having timer issues and it turned out to be the switch.
     
  12. Sep 30, 2012 at 7:40 AM
    #92
    Sigo

    Sigo Active Member

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    So yes. I looked at it again with fresh eyes this morning. Everything is wired as describe. There shouldn't be a strictly POS or NEG on the mirror leads... Right?
    Still getting 12V on pin 4 at the switch with the relay plugged in and on 85 with the switch plugged in. If I take both the relay and switch out of the circuit I don't get the 12V readig on pin 4 or 85. Other info: with the relay out, on the relay itself I get continuity between 30 and 87a (I do understand this isn't used and I removed the wire from the pigtail) but no other pin combination. With the switch out, on the switch pins I get continuity between 4 and 5 both when the switch is presses or not - no continuity between any other pin combination.
    Continuity checked good on all wire runs. So just to be clear, pin 5, 86 and 30 should all be connected to the wire tap... correct?
    Given this, any ideas? I'm having a hard time blaming the switch because I get the 12V on both 4 and 85 no matter which I eliminate from the equation.
     
  13. Sep 30, 2012 at 8:00 AM
    #93
    Sigo

    Sigo Active Member

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    Just a little more info. If I unplug the switch and relay and jumper between 30 and 87 on the relay both mirrors warm up. Looks like I'm gettin about .012A when the circuit is hot (live). I'm using a 15A fuse In the tap-a-fuse connected into the gauges slot. Oh, and I've tried a couple of different grounding locations.
     
  14. Oct 1, 2012 at 6:08 PM
    #94
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Damn Bruce, sorry this has been so frustrating. I hope you can figure it out, this mod has been done successfully by quite a few people now.

    I connected 86 & 30 using a quick-splice and ran the 86 lead all the way to Pin 5. I then connected the fuse-tap to the same 86 lead using another quick-splice.

    On the mirrors, it doesn't matter which terminal is pos/neg but I wired it the same way on both sides.

    You say you've tried numerous relays, and gotten the same results?

    Have you tried a smaller fuse (≤10amps)?

    Sorry if this isn't helping, but it can be difficult to troubleshoot without seeing it in person. I didn't experience any issues, so I didn't really have to diagnose any different problems. I am in no way an electrical expert, but I can try to help as much as possible, or maybe other members can chime-in if they have suggestions.
     
  15. Oct 1, 2012 at 6:13 PM
    #95
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    Do u have the jumper between 30 & 86?
     
  16. Oct 2, 2012 at 1:54 PM
    #96
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Any progress/luck yet Bruce?
     
  17. Oct 8, 2012 at 6:02 AM
    #97
    Sigo

    Sigo Active Member

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    Thanks for all of the input. CtryBoyinMT has been helping me along through PMs. I've diagnosed this as a bad switch and am returning it. Once I get my replacement I think things will be OK. I've isolated and checked every cable, component, etc so I'm pretty confident it's the switch. I'll report back with my findings once I replace the switch.
     
  18. Oct 8, 2012 at 8:09 AM
    #98
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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  19. Oct 8, 2012 at 12:15 PM
    #99
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Cool, I hope that it's something simple like a bad switch. Sorry if I wasn't much help, but I'm glad CtryBoy was able to lend some guidance too. Good luck, and keep us posted! :thumbsup:

    Sweet! Good job on incorporating this into the towing mirrors! Did you encounter any issues with the wires getting pulled when the mirrors rotate?

    I will have to let my dad know about those mirrors when they are available. I was gonna help him with the heated mirrors, but he will probably opt for the towing mirrors too once I tell him about 'em.
     
  20. Oct 8, 2012 at 12:34 PM
    #100
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    No problem at all. These are complete new set of mirrors that you take off the factory set and bolt these right on. The '12's will have the LED's plug right in but older models like my '09 you need to tap into for the lights. The wiring for the heated mirrors is the same as these no matter the year.
    Thanks for yours and some other peoples threads to help wire them up.
     
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