Oil Catch Can Install Guide

Just to add color into my engine bay. They have colored heat sleeves on summit website

 

There used to be a group buy on 42DD / 42 Draft Designs catch can.
To my knowledge that company parts are more used on Volkswagen but given that catch cans are somewhat universal I'm guessing people simply figured out how to make it work on their Tacoma.

That being said, does anyone know why people even bought it?
The shit is $200 for a simple cylinder with connection ports.
I don't understand why anyone would pay $200 for something you can buy on eBay for $20.
Once I had such a catch can for another car that I ended up not installing and sold on CL. It even came with a clear plastic sight tube.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/42-draft-designs-oil-catch-can-group-buy.284102/

Looks like I may need to buy one again to put on the Taco.
Appears the 42DD one might not even be made anymore.
Difference on theirs seems like the bottom has an outlet port to drain oil, possibly back into the crankcase.
I don't know how you would even do that. I'm not sure there is any extra oil connections. And people are not exactly going to pull out their engine to find a random spot to drill a hole for that and thread it. When you can just drain it each oil change.
For such a system companies even sell one way oil check valves, if a line drains/returns oil back to the crankcase. Which adds even more cost.

In summary,
What is the best catch can?

 

Best Catch Can.... any catch can that doesn't allow oil fumes back into the intake.... The factory PCV dumped oil back into my SCer. So IMHO anything that doesnt allow oil back into the intake is BEST.

 

We use some of these on aircraft in aviation, My thoughts are they are pointless, the tubes weep and seep oil all over and the belly's are as dirty as not having one at all, It's feel good bullshit

 

you may be right
for ~$20 I was hoping it could have improvements

-catch that coffee looking shit that happens from cold short trips
-prevent oil from dirtying up intake but at this point (high miles stock) I'm sure it's already dirty
-reduce carbon buildup caused by oil
-prevent burning oil from reducing octane rating

but usually only expensive catch can or PCV products have extras like internal filter that's replaceable, venturi design to swirl the vapor and let droplets form, etc.
not features expected on a $20 part from China

maybe even more important with a supercharger then

 

What's with the one from ebay with a breather on top... thought we were talking vaccume

 

I did the catch can install on Sunday morning. I also installed the UNI UP-107 filter on the secondary pump...
Bought the Ruien can... seems to be of good quality except the hose. I went to NAPA and got 4' of transmission cooler line.

$24 RULLINE Universal 350ml Oil Catch Can Tank 0046 Aluminum Polish Baffled Reservoir Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK9PTP7?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Built a bracket which bolts onto two existing side wall threads. Worked great as I have a relay mounted for LED's also. I used good clamps and hook up was easy. I'll check the can in a few hundred miles.
Of note, the OEM line from the PCV to the intake area was clean in the ID...

 

Just did mine today!

 

Here's my take on oil catch can install.

Technically this is my 4th ish iteration of experimenting with different cheaper things to see how much it actually does and came to the conclusion it really is good to have one.

I'm happy having a catch can even on my NA motor as it definitely keeps the intake runners and valves, and thus the exhaust a LOT cleaner.

I ground down the barb on the PCV valve after verifying function then used my vice to press on the 1/4-3/8 NPT adapter sealed with a little FIPG 103 so that I could use the shark bite fitting at the PCV. This allowed me to reroute the line so as to not rub on the fuel, heater, or brake lines and to better reach the can as the inlet/outlet are reversed due to where I had to install it. The electronic brake booster and clutch reservoir plus my blue sea accessory fuse box limited my install options. I also removed my plenum cut off the nipple and then drilled and tapped for a shark bite elbow for much the same reasons.

On the Negative Case Ventilation side I have a Amazon special inline water/oil separator on the NCV for two reasons, one I'm just extra, two if there's ever an issue with the PCV side the NCV side will begin to collect oil and this keeps mist off the MAF and TB. Otherwise if everything is functioning as it should it stays clean and dry.

I know this from the aforementioned experiments, and if both sides get blocked from forgetting about them and putting of draining and cleaning out the tiny inline style ones I experimented with your engine will sludge quickly and have reduced MPG.

Hopefully the shark bite fittings and lines hold up to this use, plumbed in a ball valve and a line down the fender well for easy drainage, the blue transparent line will allow me to keep an eye on flow, at least for a while, it will most likely get replaced with black to match the rest.

 

I thought about this for a while, just bought this can today.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Catch-...-Drain-Valve-Breather-Universal-/125058149941

Of course I won't be using the breather but I will be using the drain valve. If the hardware looks sketch, I'll upgrade and seal the fittings before installation.
We had these back in the day for race cars, but perhaps slight overkill and one more thing to break for regular vehicles. Times are different and so are motor vehicles. When cars and trucks cost so much, anything to protect that investment is worth it. Also, my 2005 has a higher than average head gasket failure rate so anything to protect that motor.

 

Looks pretty standard but also very small, definitely drain it every time you stop for gas or it will fill up quickly and once oil gets on up to that sintered brass filter element it will carbonize and jam up the whole works.

Also don't use the open air vent as the motor will pull vacuum from that instead of the PCV which as it is unmetered air may cause a CEL, rough idle, and will be an ingestion point for dirt into the motor.

Otherwise looks pretty standard and should function well enough.

It is stupid ridiculous how much an oil catch can costs but I think most manufacturers are banking on that most people who buy them don't understand them and just get them *because race car* and expensive must therefore mean good!

 

I'm hoping I won't be removing quarts of blowby every month but we'll see. If this one sucks, it will have cost me $20 to figure out exactly what will work.

I usually don't go bargain basement, but some things are basically good and need adjustment before installation.

 

You'll be dumping lots of condensation. I have the same one without the drain valve and have actually considered taking it off because it fills up so fast.

 

Seems like I empty mine every other week or so during the cold months due to condensation. I went pretty much all summer with about a shot glass of oil cough.

 

The amount of condensation depends on a number of variables. One thing for sure, short trips = more condensation.
If this can is too small, I'll go for the half gallon racing tank.

 

Easy install. Catch can from eBay is rough around the edges, especially around the threaded areas. Take it apart and clean it up, especially the threaded areas.



Use plenty of gas proof sealant on the threads.There is a valve to empty the can on the bottom, but I will probably unscrew the can a couple times to see how much it's catching.



I replaced the bracket pan head bolts with stronger socket head bolts. 4' of 3/8" ID fuel hose was more than enough.

 

Why bend over when you might hurt your back? And plug a hole in the wheel well.



One man with a little Toyoga to drain the can through the wheel well.



Sealing the threads makes the cheap can work. Only marginal performance gains; 12 -16 HP at best.

 

Looks like you have this style:





For what it's worth those sintered bronze elements are a little too fine and will plug up quickly when it does your negative crank case ventilation port *WILL* start functioning as your PCV line and it will dump a LOT of oil directly onto your throttle body.

This is my I have my negative filter monitoring system:



My plugged sintered bronze element:



You can see how nasty and sludgy the in line got when the filter clogged up with the clear line:





I ended up adding some sintered bronze element into the flow path to help condense a little more mist but it can be fully bypassed if it gets clogged.

 

If the filter clogs up, I'll remove it and stick some steel wool in there.

 

Just pull your negative vent hose and check for oil in it when you empty your catch can, if it's wet your sintered filter is clogged and you're motor is drinking oil through the CCV/NCV.