Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

Ummmmmmmmmmm... What?

 

it might been just the front but the i saw was 2100, listed as a 2" to 8" travel and no glass fenders needed

ahhh, it doesnt include the shocks or the rear, what a jip, it said kit and then has Fox's and Walkers listed seperate

 

true, only thing is... i have the stock sport wheels right now, I buy spindles and everything that goes along with spindles and rear and I still have to buy spacers for the front because of my wheels and then spacers to the rear to match the front... then comes the whole, highway tires on spindles bro look. lol

 

If you want some extra droop up front and a better on road ride go with icon ext. travel and aftermarket UCAs

 

So 1/4 poly spacers ordered, a suggestion was to bet longer strut bolts but my build budget just got knixed, kind of wished I had enough for aluminum.

My next question is should I try and scrounge money up for top strut plates and mount everything, because right now I'm gong to have to remove mine,compress springs,remove top hat, compress new springs,install tap hat and spacer and then install on truck. And that sounds like a pain in the ass and take even longer on the install.

 

Is it possible to get a decent 2.5" lift for a 2012 DCLB 4x4 for under $500?
Just curious, thanks

What would be the best possible for under $500?
Thank you all for your opinions...

 

This question might be better answered in another thread. If you were lucky, you could score a used OME lift for $500 and do the install yourself.

 

Yeah, like Chris said.....probably not the right thread if your budget is only $500. Do you off-road? If so, I would save some more money before you lift. The cheapest option that will be decent is to get some Bilstein 5100s and an AAL. That you can probably get for under $500. I wouldn't go with spacers and blocks.

 

^^^ what he said. A lot depends on how you'll use the truck.

 

Forgive me if this had been already addressed in detail. 137 pages is a bit much for me to read through! I have armor/bumper/winch on 2009 Access cab. I currently am on Toytec 5100/Eibach coilover that definitely seem to be sagging since adding the additional weight. I'm wanting to go with 886x/Nitrochargers and am think about also adding the 10mm or 13mm top plate enhancer from Wheelers. I want to maintain 3" lift once suspension settles. A little more is even okay with me since I plan on replacing CVs often anyways as I'm now running 35s. If i do the top plate enhancer and get over 3" will I be hurting anything other than CVs?

Thanks for any help.

 

Have 885s, not installed.

Want to get 5100s for front (set to 0), and 5125s (DSM has them on sale )as well as the 1.5" AAL from Toytec. Anything I'm missing? U bolts? The OME Nitrocharger shocks are out of my price range.

I plan to get a hybrid bumper, which is why I got 885s, and I got a deal on them.

 

I have a 2wd double cab long bed and was planning on going with OME and dakars; After reading this I am not sure it's the best plan then, been reading the threads till my eyes hurt - anyone here running a similar setup and could comment on ride quality or any other pros/cons?

Thanks in Advance for any comments

 

On an access cab I'm not sure you'll even need spacers with 886s. I know at least one person on here with a double cab that added spacers to 886s to regain lift but like I said that was a double cab. I would think at most, you would need 1/4" spacer....I don't think you'd need to go with 1/2". Just speculating though.

 

Should be all you need. Is that an access cab? Hard to tell from that angle. Without new UCAs, you may have some alignment issues until you get your bumper put on because you're probably going to get close to 3" of lift with the 885s. Double cabs get right around 2.5" with them.

 

AWWWW... I miss My 73 bronco... (It's in his sig^^)

Nice rig.. !

(Ok now back to our regular programming...)

 

BJBoucher covered a lot, but I didn't see mention of UCAs. 2.5"+ is when a lot of guys start experiencing alignment issues which can easily be corrected with aftermarket Upper Control Arms. The UCAs will also relieve a bit of stress on the upper BJ at full droop. That was an issue I had on my gen 1.

IMO you won't need the spacers until you work the the 886's in a little bit. At most you'll need the 10mm (1/4") IF at all, and if you decide you can install them fairly easily yourself after the fact.

At 3" of lift the only real damage you'll see to the CV's is the outer boot "vanes" rubbing and wearing out prematurely. That wouldn't be too much of an issue if we had locking hubs, but we don't so the CVs just keep spinning and spinning. I'm not sure what the actual limit is on the joint itself before it grenades/binds/or is otherwise destroyed.

All said and done 3" is right about where you want to be for this type of lift.

 

Quick question, I got my lift say a month ago and the Dakar leafs are getting a little squeaky?

I've done a little bit of wheeling and the weather has been pretty rainy as well... Is there anything I can really do?

Also do any of you guys do any rust protection on any of your lift components?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...rs-dakars.html

 

What he said....on page 3 OZ posts a great/easy fix. At the end of the thread you'll see a decent kit available on Amazon for $15 to get enough of the EPMD rubber and it comes with adhesive.

 

It is an access cab V6. I'm hoping to avoid UCA's if possible, atleast in the near future. I may need to adjust my budget for that possibility though.

I plan to just swap the OME 885/5100s in place of the stock set up, no top plate spacer or anything. As long as I get atleast 2" of lift I'm happy. 3" is perfect.

Thanks for the help btw.