Pads and Rotors poll

Snow is fun with 4WD

 

lol Sometimes. Not so much on 1 and a half lane roads where the shoulders are a tree lined hill on one side and a cliff on the other.

Lots of the roads around my place apparently don't need guard rails. I guess they figure the trees will stop you.

Which is another reason I hate ABS. Sure it's supposed to help you maneuver while stopping, but on roads like that where the hell am I gonna go? I'd rather just be able to stop. Period.

 

Don't just take my word for it...

Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that
tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"

Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors? In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern...

Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause
temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...

 

LOL, Ya got me there. I go on 2 lanes or better - one and a half - trees and cliffs

 

Yeah, hugging the shoulder to give the other driver room and hitting slush is no fun. The truck pulls to the side, no room to maneuver, you just want to reduce speed and get back on the road.

 

Good info. Thanks for contributing.

 

A little to country for me at least with winter conditions.

 

You may find some of your rotors are other than hardened steel. The hardened steel is a process performed at the mfg. If you go with a name brand you should be okay. I was also reading other replies about rotors and the article on page two who explained gas rotors and brake pads was spot on. I like the slotted because of the cooling qualities and the ability for the rotors to dispel heat and any gas which may build up. Drilled rotors are great for the same thing and Zimmerman rotors both slotted and drilled are excellent but drilled rotors have a tendency to crack. Race car drivers so use them but replace them on a regular basis. Not conducive to us that drive until replacement. The steel lines as stated previously will let you feel your brakes when you step on them. It's the feel and the quality of braking you get with them. If not mistaken there is no brake pad or very limited brake fade with stainless steel lines. By the way Hawk, akebono, zimmerman, ate ceramic pads are all excellent. I'm sure they're are more. The metal pads tend to eat your rotors a little more thus more wear. Simply compare prices on the known pads and rotors you will find you'll be pleased with the action of any of them.

 

Here's the link for the TW Group Buy on SS Brake Lines

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/gr...-deal-steel-braded-brake-lines-group-buy.html

 

Thanks for the info. From my reading a lot of people on TW seem to like the Hawk. I'll have to read up on the others. Bottom line go with a good ceramic pad not any other material and going with a good name on the rotor should get you a hardened steel rotor.

 

Everything I read says steer away from ceramics. Just sayin I plan to do the hawk lts which are designed for trucks.

 

Here's a link. $ seems good.
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A2910A0A0.aspx?kc=ffproduct
These are ferro-carbon not ceramic.

 

TW Misinformation Hall of Fame candidate.
Rotors are cast iron, unless you pay big$ for composite.
Stainless steel lines are for looks, or high temp applications, competition....they do NOTHING for brake fade.
OP-I bought Myele plated rotors and Axxis Deluxe pads.
Less than $120 and got great results....good braking and low dust.

 

Thanks. Everyone seems to have an opinion that makes sense even though they are all different. This being the case I'd like to pose a question to you and the other posters. Where does the opinion come from ? What is you experience and or expertise ? Thanks for any reply.

 

Hawk LTS pads and EBC rotors. The best.

 

Thinkingman is correct. Best thing to do is go to your local autozone and buy rotors with a warranty. If you have any problems with warping your only out an afternoon to replace them. When I used to frequent the track I would buy autozone rotors and run them all season with agressive hawk HP+ pads and return the rotors for a new pair for FREE!

BTW this was suggested by experienced OG drivers.

 

Sounds like a plan. What rotors would you suggest ? I'm sure Autozone has more then one choice. I have a little shimmy when I put the brakes on that I'm sure is from rotors. Thanks.

 

George... are you going to do the poll? I just did one a few minutes ago for brake pad wear mileage: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/179838-poll-how-long-did-your-brake-pads-last.html

Let me know if you need help... The poll questions box pops up after you press the post button... it is kind of freaky how it works here.

 

Lots of people on TW seem to go for the Hawk LTS pads. What's your experience with them ? How many miles do you have one them ?

 

It's true you will get various opinions and that's a good thing... But the common thread you'll begin to see between those in the know and those who don't is straight forward truthfulness.

I agree with the poster who commented about stainless steel brake lines. Unless your truck is 10 years old then the OEM rubber ones will do just fine. As the truck ages those rubber lines do get weaker and will bulge leading to a loss of peddle feel and braking power. Replacing them with new OEM rubber lines or if you wish opting for stainless will improve the brakes. But as stated the improved braking is a result of replacing the old lines not due to they are stainless.

If you wish to know personal expertise you'll have to PM. I don't care for getting into shouting matches on an open forum. Everyone is entitled to their opinion even if they are mistaken... I wish not to offend anyone or tell someone their in error, as that just leads to problems. I like Tacoma world and it's users and only wish to respect each of them by respecting them all. I hope they in return give me the same courtesy.