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Remote Start Comparison? Just the facts, please...

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by johnsland8, Mar 21, 2017.

  1. Mar 21, 2017 at 11:40 PM
    #1
    johnsland8

    johnsland8 [OP] Member

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    I have read through several pages of information on the DIY remote start kits. I see that KB Voodoo and the originator get a lot of love on this site, and rightfully so.
    I would just like the low down on what separates the the KB Voodoo kit and the 12Volt Solutions kit (the current ver. 1).
    Essentially, it looks like they both do the same thing. Remote start the truck with the factory FOB.
    One splices 7-9 wires while one eliminates a few splices by utilizing the OBD connector.
    One is $130, one is $140.
    Other than that, what is the difference? Am I missing anything important?
    Sticking to the facts and trying to leave emotion out of it, why would you pick one over the other?
    I'm not interested in smart start or any other add-ons, just the basic remote start with factory FOB.
    Thank you!
     
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  2. Mar 22, 2017 at 12:01 AM
    #2
    A Salt Weapon

    A Salt Weapon Well-Known Member

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    I thought someone said they would have a 100% plug and play version coming soon as well. I've been kind of holding out for that myself.
     
  3. Mar 22, 2017 at 2:14 AM
    #3
    johnsland8

    johnsland8 [OP] Member

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    Yeah. The 12Volt Solutions ver 2.1 is supposed to be 100% plug and play I think due out in April. It's also $220 vs. the current $130/$140 so I was excluding it for comparisons sake. But for warranty issues or lease vehicles, a true plug and play might be worth it...
     
  4. Mar 22, 2017 at 4:36 AM
    #4
    KB Voodoo

    KB Voodoo Well-Known Member

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    It boils down to plug'n play versus doing a little splicing. They should both operate the same way.

    Neither of them will effect your warranty, or your lease.
     
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  5. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:11 AM
    #5
    gpb

    gpb Well-Known Member

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    Functionally they're not going to be any different.

    My understanding is they both use the same DEI DBALL2 module (which I also used in my DIY). It's possible that 12V Solutions is using one of the Fortin modules (EVO-ALL or EVO-ONE) but it really doesn't matter as both essentially work the same.

    Either module requires several connections to be made to various wires all in close proximity in the driver side footwell. It appears the 12V solution version leverages a couple of male/female harnesses to make its wire connections to and allows for a plug-and-play installation whereas with the KB VooDoo kit you'd splice or solder the wires.

    If you look at the DIY in my signature I used the same DEI DBALL2 module install and it should give you a better feel for what it entails.

    Which one would I pick? Well that should be obvious, I figured out and rolled my own install for about $70 out of pocket. :D

    Still, if I were buying I'd probably go with the KB VooDoo version.

    In context of a potential lease turn in, you can open up the bundle sleeves a bit and make your wire connections higher up in the factory harness such that they're not really visible. If you have autolights you'd need to reconnect one wire upon desinstallation, otherwise it'd be as simple as clipping the wires close to the solder joint and insulating the cut ends before tucking them back under the sleeves. A tech would have to be very specifically looking for something to find your deinstall traces.
     
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  6. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:14 AM
    #6
    KB Voodoo

    KB Voodoo Well-Known Member

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    And in my experience with leases, the truck could be missing all the body panels and they wouldn't notice.

    One time they gave me the clipboard and asked me to do my own inspection while they did the paperwork for the new truck. We passed.
     
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  7. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:14 AM
    #7
    gpb

    gpb Well-Known Member

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    Also -- if you had a potential warranty issue that might involve the DBALL2 module, you can simply disconnect the two connectors from the DBALL2 module and it's out of the circuit. (Morpheus says: unless you've disconnected the battery, be sure to disconnect the DBALL2's blue connector first and reconnect it last, don't touch the red connector unless the blue connector is not attached.)
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2017
  8. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:16 AM
    #8
    cowboyup_again

    cowboyup_again Well-Known Member

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    I think you would have to jumper the auto light wire at the plug but you are right in that if you can remove it from the circuit easily.
     
  9. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:19 AM
    #9
    gpb

    gpb Well-Known Member

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    Yes, you would need to do so for autolight functionality. In terms of diagnosing other stuff it's not really necessary though. If it's not connected it's effectively the same as having the light switch Off.

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:25 AM
    #10
    brny67

    brny67 Well-Known Member

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  11. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:26 AM
    #11
    freeriderchad108

    freeriderchad108 Well-Known Member

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    A few minor things...
    I have the 12volt solutions one that requires 2 splices and a snip of the auto lights wire. It took 15 minutes to install and hide under the dash. It works great and it was $140
     
  12. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:45 AM
    #12
    roth_nj

    roth_nj Well-Known Member

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    Any link or info to this 12v 2.1?
     
  13. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:48 AM
    #13
    3rdGenDCOR

    3rdGenDCOR Well-Known Member

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  14. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:53 AM
    #14
    roth_nj

    roth_nj Well-Known Member

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  15. Mar 22, 2017 at 5:58 AM
    #15
    meyergsr

    meyergsr Well-Known Member

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  16. Mar 22, 2017 at 6:35 AM
    #16
    cowboyup_again

    cowboyup_again Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering how the Remote Start would affect a ODBII test for troubleshooting or the use of tech stream but this answers my question.
     
  17. Mar 22, 2017 at 6:42 AM
    #17
    gpb

    gpb Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:

    FYI as to any CANbus concerns anyone may have: Since installing my RemoteStart I've done the Lexus Credit Card Smartkey mod using TechStream to reset and re-register my smartkey fobs with no issue. I've also had the transmission TSB applied at the dealer a couple weeks ago which definitely requires TechStream/TIS -- they didn't seem to notice or care.
     
  18. Mar 22, 2017 at 7:37 AM
    #18
    johnsland8

    johnsland8 [OP] Member

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    That's funny stuff! My experiences with lease turn-ins have been considerably less pleasant. But none of them would have gone to the extent of removing the access panel to inspect the wires. My previous comment about lease vehicles was mostly just for the convenience of the buyer to remove before turning in. And, hopefully lucking out that it might still work in the new one.
     
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  19. Mar 22, 2017 at 8:15 AM
    #19
    gpb

    gpb Well-Known Member

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    To address this question specifically:

    In terms of returning the truck to stock electrically, it's mostly just clipping the wires off near the splice (with battery disconnected) and insulating/securing them. The only factory harness wire you actually cut instead of tapping onto is the autolights wire if your truck is so equipped. Return that to stock would be just reconnecting the two ends. See the diagram in my DIY post in my signature.

    While the DBALL2 can likely be used in another vehicle, you'd need to reflash it with the appropriate firmware for that vehicle if not a 2016-17 Tacoma. It's not difficult if you buy an XKLoader2 and can figure out wiring diagrams.
     
  20. Mar 22, 2017 at 8:34 AM
    #20
    johnsland8

    johnsland8 [OP] Member

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    Cool! That's good stuff.
    Thanks!
     
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