Rust Prevention/Treatment Consolidation Thread

Holy crap! This thread!
Great piece of work.

 

Hello All,

While I am not a Tacoma owner yet, I am doing my due diligence in researching the Tacoma before buying one. So far, I like what I see and I really appreciate the compilation of information on this particular thread. I have been reading the info on this thread for about 4 days and I am still not all the way done!! Anyways, after doing some other research on the rust prevention topic, I finally found an update to the Texaco Rust Proofing Compound L. Here is where you can get the product:

http://www.michiganpetroleum.com/images/application_category_documents/33.pdf

I just called them today, 8/24/15, and they have some in stock. The cost for a 5 gallon pail (the smallest denomination that they sell) is $142.80. For those of you in the area like me, you can pick up the product at their location in Port Huron. They are open M-F from 8am - 5pm and on Saturday from 8am - 12pm. If you need more than 5 gallons, they have larger quantities.

Also, for the area of the frame by the cats, I was thinking of using this stuff inside the frame rails due to the heat issue. Not sure if you can use the other stuff (Amsoil HDMP, CRC Marine, etc) due to the vapors and its relatively low flash point. It comes in a gel form and in an aerosol form. Still working on trying to find it by the can instead of the large quantity case:

Never-Seez NSA-16 Silver Gray Regular Grade Anti-Seize Compound, 16 fl. oz. Aerosol Can (Pack of 12)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWA2US?redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p328_d0_i3

Please keep updating this thread with your findings, they are immensely helpful!! While I still have another OEMs leased truck, I will be trying the different products (CRC 06026 HD Marine Corrosion Inhibitor, Boeshield T-9, Fluid Film, Amsoil HDMP, and hopefully the Compound L) on my frame in different locations to judge their effectiveness. So far I have sprayed on the Boeshield T-9 and the CRC HD Marine products to the outside frame rails underneath the body portion of the truck. I had to paint the frame area at the rear wheels with some epoxy paint so I have to let it seal up for 7 days before applying the corrosion protection and then I am going to apply some of the other products to those areas.

One other question - With the Amsoil HDMP, can you put it or are you guys putting it onto the outside of the transfer case and transmission and the oil pan? In this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-rust-prevention-experiment.310580/

The OP, TerribleTT said that he put it on everything. Just wanted to check exactly what everything was.

Thanks again!!

 

Thanks for the info............

What state you live in ? If you are looking Tacoma , I just offering mine... you may check

 

Sorry, trying to update my profile. I am in MI.

 

Lets talk about this point a bit, since I didn't see it covered in depth.

The problem in this area has to do with a tendency for the steel frame to rust through from the inside out. You will note that this part of the frame is boxed, and there really isn't much access to the inside of the frame.

The problem here that causes this, is that although *we* don't have good access to the inside of the frame in this area, the salty crud on the road *does*. In fact, the salty crud on the road will literally SHOOT into this exact area!

With a flashlight, take a look up into the front cab mounts. If you shine the flashlight into them, you will notice that there is actually an enormous gaping hole in the frame rail at the back of the cab mount! When you drive through salty crud with your front wheels, it shoots up into the bottom of the cab mount, which redirects it straight into the hole in the frame rail, thus loading your boxed front half of the frame with the stuff you LEAST want your frame exposed to.

And its not exactly an easy job to coat the inside of that boxed section with any of the various products to protect it!

So the best thing to protect this frame, IMO, is to block off that access to the inside of the frame.

 

Also, in other research, the heat from the cats also aids in the degradation of the existing coating on the frame and therefore to the formation of rust. Has anyone tried this type of product over the existing heat shields? Maybe this would help to slow down the heat degradation issue:

http://www.koolmat.com/heatmast.shtml

 

Sounds good idea for those whom live on states that snow a lot, I"m lucky Texas... Good found data dudei will buy it , however Chasis Saver paint 1st

 

Ok I'm about to ask a stupid question...

Is there anywhere under the truck where rust is "normal" and "ok"? Obviously I'd want my frame protected, but I was crawling around under there today and noticed some rust on the flanges of my muffler assembly. Should I spray the heck out it? And what do I do to avoid painting the bolts in place?

Thanks for your input.

 

@SeNate 's thread is the start and stop point for proper rust mitigation. There are a couple of other competing, and just as effective, products that could be used as long as manufacturers prep instructions are followed to the letter. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/frame-restoration-did-it-myself.368199/

 

What is the best way to clean off all the grease and oils when u want to start priming frame components?

 

The degreasing and prep process recommended by the manufacturer of the prime/finish system you choose.

 

Thanks, DoorDing, for your reply. So everyone drives around with rust on these parts or should I pursue another solution?

 

My stock exhaust has rust. I will prolly replace with all stainless including the hangars when the time comes.

 

I just sprayed rustolium flat black over all the welds and seams on the frame/cross members, and sprayed 10k mile old diesel oil out of our Passat tdi all over the frame took a rag a wiped the excess all around. It stopped dripping about 2 days of driving around. I know it works as well as this other stuff, and its free. do it over a tarp

just an idea

 

Frame all cleaned and painted from the cab back. Waiting for springs and shocks.

Before...




After...

 

For times I'm living in areas with salted roads, I wish to wash my frame/undercarriage frequently; so I decided to try to build a washer of my own; got inspiration from these guys:
http://www.theunderwasher.com/
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...under-car-washer-water-pressure-question.html

Went to Lowes and got:



drilled 3/32 holes every 4" along bottom tube; after assembly:


First test had excellent high pressure jets 6' into the air, but the weight of the water made the tubing bend too much, so reinforcement was needed. Added 3/8" rod attached with hose clamps:


Final test- washes great, I can thoroughly wash off the underside in less than 10 minutes:



Parts and cost:
3/8 rod – 5.96
6 hose clamps – 6.00
quick connector - 2.98
glue/primer – 6.98
1/2" cpvc tubing and fittings – 6.83
total - $28.75


Maybe pvc is more rigid than cpvc?, if one were to construct a similar washer with 3/4" pvc instead of 1/2" cpvc, they might not need a brace.

I may try more experiments with hole sizes and numbers.


Edit:

Further experimentation suggests 3/32" holes every 2" along the bottom member seems ideal; this pattern allows for good coverage with sufficient pressure to remove salt, mud, and debris.

The water pressure may be powerful enough to remove some of an oil-based crc, but further experimentation is needed.

 

I just use an oscillating sprinkler. Start from the front, drag the hose every few minutes. Works great, and cost me $10 bucks.

 

Nice, yes, I thought about that too, may resort to that method for heavier encrustations that require longer washes.

 

Wow just seen this for the 1st time. Nice work OP!

 

I can attest to Krown's abilities. Not a spot of rust on my frame or body after 5 years of PA "rust belt" winters.