Severe alignment issues -with photos

I agree that it could easily be the centering pin especially because of the AAL. Get a couple new pins and get in there and look. Also maybe take the current AAL out and get a new one, you will be better off with a wheelers or toytec.

 

im not sure what the tsb pack looks like, im just assuming its aftermarket. if you have any friends with jack-stands, a floor jack, and a few metric sockets, its really an easy job to check it out/ add another leaf.

whatever you do though, it is always a good idea to have new u-bolts if you remove or have someone else remove the old ones. I've never heard of "catastrophic old u-bolt failure" but im assuming that's because everyone replaces their old ones after removal.

 

I'm still pretty confused on what to do. There's no way the frame is bent on this thing.

I'm thinking about getting OME Dakar's and new hardware.

 

Start with the simple shit first. There is a centering pin on the leaf springs that inserts into the top of the axle that keeps the axle centered and tracking straight. This pin is not a tight fit into the axle and there is a small amount of 'play' in the fitting. Jack the rear end up, loosen the u-bolts and tug on the tire in the direction you need them to turn. That should be enough to get your rear back in check. If the centering pin is broken, you'll know by jacking the rear end, loosening the u-bolts and letting the axle back down (put frame stands under the frame rails and let the axle hang). FWIW, I doubt your centering pin is sheared.

The tech who did your alignment should have had a much better reason for wanting to tear apart the whole rear end. It is a little concerning that the toe for the rear isn't the same side to side (straight axle, they should be the same or close). How does the truck drive, does the rear end shake?

Also, don't necessarily assume that the body is 100% straight on the frame. There have been some people with alignment issues as far as the body not sitting perfectly in line with the frame.

 

Sorry if I missed something, but where do you get that the caster is so far off? The readings are 1.5 and 1.3, with 1.6 being nominal. Seems reasonable to me.

First step in alignment is pre-toe set so that the sensors are set for a proper swing, then you get the rear within specs. They came back and told him that they could not get the rear into alignment. If you can't align the rear, you are wasting time aligning the front. I would not have adjusted the front either.

Just my $.02 worth.

 

Go through this thread:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/54186-aal-install-second-gen.html
The center bolt/pin is what everyone is talking about. If it is not in the hole of the head sheared off, that could be what's causing your rear alignment issues.

 

Truck pulls to the right. Not terribly, but enough for me to have an alignment done. No shaking or vibes.

 

Thanks! I'm going to take some photos on the AAL right now. Maybe someone will be able to tell if the previous owner installed them wrong.

 

Honestly, I don't really know what I'm looking at. Do I have an AAL, or the TSB done?
The curve in the leafs in the 4th picture looks a bit wavy to me. Again, no clue what I'm looking at. Not trying to act like I know what I'm talking about- just trying to gain some knowledge on what's going on with this thing.

 

You have a set of helper springs (looks like something Hellwig would make or similar). Whoever installed them would have had no reason to remove the stock centering pin to install them. The helper springs are the springs on the very top of the leaf pack. You do NOT have a TSB leaf pack, you have the standard 3-leaf pack.

In your last picture, it looks like the helper springs are installed too far to the rear. That front clamp should be close to the stock u-bolt. By shifting it back, it just clamps the overload leaf to the active leaf pack. That's not causing your alignment problem but it's certainly not helping your ride any either.

 

Got it. Thank you for explaining that.

 

IM SURE THIS IS IT .......

 

Isnt the range for caster go upto to 2.7? I always read that you pretty much want the max caster within range.

 

My documentation shows that depending on the tires, and specific Tacoma model, caster nominal spec is between 1.68, and 2.1 degrees. The print out there was indicating that his nominal would be somewhere close to the 1.68 range.

You want caster to be at the nominal point, not the highest point. Excessive caster can cause excessive steering effort, which can cause premature wear on the steering gear.

 

When lifted