Spark plug change questions

I couldn’t quite find all these answers throughout TW so here goes:

-What YouTube video do you recommend that shows the best way to get to the driver’s side spark plugs?
-14 ft-lbs for the plugs I believe, how about torque settings for the coil pack bolts, bolts for engine cover, and bolts holding the bracket on the driver’s side?
-I think I need silicon grease for the coil boots, no anti-seize, a spark plug socket, extension, the normal socket set, an extending magnet, gap tool....anything I’m missing?
-Any reason I can’t drain the oil and then change the plugs while the oil drains completely? Doing a simultaneous oil change.
-Any other tips tricks or recommendations?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDONxuxYbvQ

 

Perfect! Thank you.

 

Also:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.30479/

 

@chris4x4 can you shed any light on the anti-seize versus no anti-seize arguments? Something to do with torque values?

 

There's no reason you can't do plugs and oil change simultaneously.
Anti-Seize is probably a good idea being you are threading into aluminum which gaulds easily. Having said that, I don't usually use it. As long as you don't cross thread or over tighten, you won't have a problem. I don't worry with a torque wrench for plugs. Thread them in till they seat, then give it a quarter turn.

ALWAYS START THREADING THE PLUGS BY HAND TO PREVENT CROSS-THREADING. This really applies to all bolts/threaded fasteners.

As for the other bolts you really don't need a torque wrench for those either. You should be able to tell what is tight enough. They are small bolts for a reason. It's not a structural component.

 

Appreciate that. Yeah I took note of the emphasis in the video on hand tightening first as well. Won’t forget that one.

 

I like putting a little bit of never sneeze on the plugs, I also reduce the torque by 10-20 % since the threads are lubricated

 

I used anti-seize SPARINGLY.
Just enough to cover the threads LIGHTLY.
I’d rather have the plugs come out easy for me these time.

I did NOT torque the plugs. I went by feel.
I probably should have torqued the plugs, but I didn’t.
No doubt I probably went a little tighter than 15 ft/lb.


Typically, you do reduce torque value when thread are lubricated.
I would not worry to much on over torquing with The Anti-seize.
@15 ft/lb there is a slight risk. But not enough to concern me.

Just be sure the engine COOL.
Never remove or install plugs on a Hot engine.
Especially with aluminum heads.

 

I only worried about torquing the plugs. Very light anti seize on the threads. Everything else I did hand tight and then a squeeze.

 

More and more I’m liking the anti-seize if I back off the torque. Say, 13 ft-lbs instead of 15?

 

Successful operation.

Was hard to keep the anti-seize really thin so I backed the torque off to 13.5 ft-lbs.

Forget to connect one coil and got the dreaded CEL and TRAC lights and had a small panic attack. Oh God I’ve ruined my truck!

Purrs like a cat now.

I bought her at 32K from a dealership, didn’t know what the spark plug interval was then, didn’t see it in the service records. Anyway, from what I see it looks like these were the originals. How bad do they look to you guys?

 

They don’t look bad.
They are OEM, 2 different plug types.
Factory Spec calls for 30k changes intervals.

Looks like you did a fine job.

 

Thanks — yeah I replaced with the same, just regular Densos no Iridium.

 

Yeah, I don’t know if you noticed.
But you have 2 different plugs pictured above.
That’s normal from OEM.
I too went with just 1 type.

 

Ha now I’m following. Didn’t notice at all! I wonder if they were grouped on each side of the motor. Weird.

 

Yes, 3 from one head.
3 from the other.
Best guess is, the heads were assembled at different places?


No one seems to really know why?