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Spark plug change questions

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Hook78, Jul 9, 2020.

  1. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:39 AM
    #1
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I couldn’t quite find all these answers throughout TW so here goes:

    -What YouTube video do you recommend that shows the best way to get to the driver’s side spark plugs?
    -14 ft-lbs for the plugs I believe, how about torque settings for the coil pack bolts, bolts for engine cover, and bolts holding the bracket on the driver’s side?
    -I think I need silicon grease for the coil boots, no anti-seize, a spark plug socket, extension, the normal socket set, an extending magnet, gap tool....anything I’m missing?
    -Any reason I can’t drain the oil and then change the plugs while the oil drains completely? Doing a simultaneous oil change.
    -Any other tips tricks or recommendations?
     
  2. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:42 AM
    #2
    spitdog

    spitdog Well-Known Member

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  3. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:45 AM
    #3
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  4. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:45 AM
    #4
    spitdog

    spitdog Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:
     
  5. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:48 AM
    #5
    fathomblue

    fathomblue Well-Known Member

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  6. Jul 9, 2020 at 10:04 AM
    #6
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  7. Jul 9, 2020 at 10:57 AM
    #7
    ToyoTaco25

    ToyoTaco25 Well-Known Member

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    There's no reason you can't do plugs and oil change simultaneously.
    Anti-Seize is probably a good idea being you are threading into aluminum which gaulds easily. Having said that, I don't usually use it. As long as you don't cross thread or over tighten, you won't have a problem. I don't worry with a torque wrench for plugs. Thread them in till they seat, then give it a quarter turn.

    ALWAYS START THREADING THE PLUGS BY HAND TO PREVENT CROSS-THREADING. This really applies to all bolts/threaded fasteners.

    As for the other bolts you really don't need a torque wrench for those either. You should be able to tell what is tight enough. They are small bolts for a reason. It's not a structural component.
     
  8. Jul 9, 2020 at 11:21 AM
    #8
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Appreciate that. Yeah I took note of the emphasis in the video on hand tightening first as well. Won’t forget that one.
     
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  9. Jul 9, 2020 at 12:08 PM
    #9
    Elikk

    Elikk Well-Known Member

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    I like putting a little bit of never sneeze on the plugs, I also reduce the torque by 10-20 % since the threads are lubricated
     
  10. Jul 9, 2020 at 12:10 PM
    #10
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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    I used anti-seize SPARINGLY.
    Just enough to cover the threads LIGHTLY.
    I’d rather have the plugs come out easy for me these time.

    I did NOT torque the plugs. I went by feel.
    I probably should have torqued the plugs, but I didn’t.
    No doubt I probably went a little tighter than 15 ft/lb.


    Typically, you do reduce torque value when thread are lubricated.
    I would not worry to much on over torquing with The Anti-seize.
    @15 ft/lb there is a slight risk. But not enough to concern me.

    Just be sure the engine COOL.
    Never remove or install plugs on a Hot engine.
    Especially with aluminum heads.
     
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  11. Jul 9, 2020 at 12:23 PM
    #11
    Spizike231

    Spizike231 Pickin’ & Grinnin’

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    I only worried about torquing the plugs. Very light anti seize on the threads. Everything else I did hand tight and then a squeeze.
     
  12. Jul 9, 2020 at 1:57 PM
    #12
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    2 schools of thought, and neither is "wrong". I prefer to use a little anti seize on plugs. As long as you use the correct torque value, you wont have any issues.
     
  13. Jul 9, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #13
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    More and more I’m liking the anti-seize if I back off the torque. Say, 13 ft-lbs instead of 15?
     
  14. Jul 9, 2020 at 2:08 PM
    #14
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    I use the same torque value. Use a very thin amount of anti seize. The picture I posted in the Spark Plug Change thread is an "exaggerated" amount, basically showing where to apply it.
     
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  15. Jul 9, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #15
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Successful operation.

    Was hard to keep the anti-seize really thin so I backed the torque off to 13.5 ft-lbs.

    Forget to connect one coil and got the dreaded CEL and TRAC lights and had a small panic attack. Oh God I’ve ruined my truck!

    Purrs like a cat now.

    I bought her at 32K from a dealership, didn’t know what the spark plug interval was then, didn’t see it in the service records. Anyway, from what I see it looks like these were the originals. How bad do they look to you guys?

    3352F07D-4F02-4DE1-979A-3586018154E1.jpg
     
  16. Jul 9, 2020 at 4:33 PM
    #16
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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    They don’t look bad.
    They are OEM, 2 different plug types.
    Factory Spec calls for 30k changes intervals.

    Looks like you did a fine job. :thumbsup:
     
  17. Jul 9, 2020 at 4:54 PM
    #17
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks — yeah I replaced with the same, just regular Densos no Iridium.
     
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  18. Jul 9, 2020 at 4:56 PM
    #18
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I don’t know if you noticed.
    But you have 2 different plugs pictured above.
    That’s normal from OEM.
    I too went with just 1 type.
     
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  19. Jul 9, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #19
    Hook78

    Hook78 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ha now I’m following. Didn’t notice at all! I wonder if they were grouped on each side of the motor. Weird.
     
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  20. Jul 9, 2020 at 5:00 PM
    #20
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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    Yes, 3 from one head.
    3 from the other.
    Best guess is, the heads were assembled at different places?


    No one seems to really know why?
     

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