Step by step removal and installation of e-locker 3rd member

After 10 years and almost 100,000-miles of pretty hard abuse my pinion bearing finally took a crap. I'll be swapping for my spare tonight so I can make the desert this weekend. Thanks for the write up. 'New' housing with regear, truss, etc will be in the works for a fall/winter project.

 

Just pulled the 3rd to replace the seal

220k miles on the oem seal and 3rd.

moved the locker gear all the way over and couldn’t get the diff out, then I was able to move it even further after messing with it. Got the diff out, cleaned everything and ran a bead of ultra grey. Installing the 3rd and just as I start to connect the two some gear oil runs out the 3rd right in my bead of RTV .

Praying It doesn’t leak


Done this 3 or so times on my last tacoma and never had an issue with leaks.

 

Subbed as the 3rd on the wife's FJC is getting loud and I can't keep ignoring it.

 

Does anyone have a good write up like this for the front?

 

I should have made one for the front when I very recently swapped out a pinion bearing in my front diff, I kinda regret not doing one. But, It's actually a simple procedure to do...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/

 

Thank you! I’m regearing this weekend and your write ups will be a huge help.

 

Got into it yesterday!
Me thinks it went well!
Followed your step by guide here!
Garcias Amigo!

Hardest part was cleaning up this mess!

As always... Chalked & Stood




rAmen

 

Good job dude! but looking at your passenger side rear shock, it needs a new main seal. They aren't too bad to replace and the seal kit is just a few bucks. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube that are helpfull..


You'll also probably need something like this to pull the piston out..

 

What an incredibly helpful thread, THANK YOU OP. This wasn’t tough at all. Only thing I noticed was I thought the E locker gizmo was moved all the way to the middle of the diff but after turning the pinion slightly while pulling the 3rd member I realized the little locker gizmo had a lot more to move to be able to remove the member. Piece of cake! Also did a THOROUGH clean of the rear axle housing. Also I found that a good piece of cardboard on your chest will make catching these heavy babies much more comfortable

 

Any tricks to remove the 3rd sealed with RTV that crap won’t let lose

 

Razor blade all the way the 3rd , believe or not, just cutting a small line all the way around will make a difference

 

was about to do that but used a small jack to crack the seal. What do you guys think diff still has a lot of life left in it.

 

When I pulled the e locker this came out. do you just insert back in or is this a bigger issue.

 

no issues, just make sure that hear an audible "click" when you push in the connector back into it's correct spot.

 

This may have been answered already but can I "add" an e-locker to my diff if it doesn't have one?? My sport didn't come with this option. Or would i be better off getting an entire new rear-end from an off-road?? Thanks

 

not the Toyota one. You can add a harrop e locker and it will actually be stronger

 

Thanks for the info

 

If you were to clean the clutch pack with degreaser, reassemble add fluid and lsd additive, is there a chance the diff would act locked until the oil and additive worked back into clutch pack?

 

What a great write up! Am glad to have the new 3rd in my truck. All this makes me wonder, though, if this is a mileage (fatigue) issue or a strength issue? Mine busted at 156,000 miles. I don't think the truck saw much 4-wheeling (except snow) until 125,000 miles, when I put 33's on. The way they all seem to break makes we wonder if the housing flexes and puts more strain on the outside of the ring gear.

 

Just to clarify, in 2011 I replaced my elocker with a 8.4 with an ARB. On average I was going through a ring and pinion about every 9 months. The 8.4 lasted about 9 years. The big truss on the 8.4 helps to make the unit WAY more solid.