Still in limp mode after 6 months

I mean havent with a test light again but idk what else would be wrong everything has power and ground im getting-40 air intake temp and my airpump wont cuton and im getting the code say secondary air injection driver

 

A meter doesn't load the circuit thats why I asked, a test light will tell you if the circuits can carry a load or not a meter will not.
Same thing with the ground, you can use a test light connected to battery positive to check the ground.

See the videos below for 2 examples of a meter showing proper voltage but it won't even carry enough current to light a test light.

https://youtu.be/LGts5gWsLOc

https://youtu.be/xazvmJ8_p5Q

 

Alright so im back with this and wanting to retrace my steps to ensure ive missed nothing. Ive followed all the wiring from the front to back and have no issues with grounds loose or dirty connections. I moved to testing power and continuity at all points where needed for the codes im getting and it all looks good. I started fidgeting with the plugs for the sais module from dewitt industries or whatever it is and i noticed if i unplug the one thats behind the map sensor and plug it back in while the truck is running it shuts off but its still in limp mode. Ive checked all of my fuses including ones not correlated bc why not i was there and everything was good there. I notice when i hooked it up to my buddies scanner my maf reads nothing and my AIT reads -40 still confuses me as to why its in limp mode if everything is good or well atleast appears to be. Is it possible a sensor like cam or crank something like that would cause limp mode and to give me these readings?

 

Have you done any checking with a test light yet?
A cam or crank sensor problem isn't gona cause the MAF and IAT sensors to not read properly.
The truck is always going to be in limp mode with no MAF signal.

 

No i havent i need to buy one to test again and yeah i imagined it wasnt just wanted to throw it put there just incase it was that dumb lol

 

Doesn't hurt to ask.
We know what the MAF Sensor needs to operate so we need to check things there for starters.

Pin 1 (Blue/White): Battery voltage with key on
Pin 2 (Red/White): MAF Sensor Control/Ground from PCM
Pin 3 (Red/Yellow): MAF Sensor Signal to PCM
Pin 4 (Red/Blue): IAT Sensor Signal (5v with MAF unplugged)
Pin 5 (Brown): MAF/IAT Sensor Ground

 

Its funny bc i was litterally just looking for those lol, btw if my maf isnt receiving power could i test it by running 12v to the positive part and a good ground wire with it plugged in to see? Sounds rigged and i wouldnt actually drive ut like that but id just be curious if it didnt have power

 

I guess you could, just be 100% sure what wire your on because if you jump power to the wrong one you may let the magic smoke out.

 

We have progress, i ran a 12v and ground from battery cut the brown wire and the blue/white wire right before the connector and hooked it up and its out of limp mode so now i know its an issue with either power or ground to the maf sensor, going to unhook the power and recconect back in line with the oe wire if it stays then i know its a simple ground issue or vice versa being a power issue will keep updated

 

Ok so berified as a power issue so now the next step is to see why i dont have 12v key on power to my maf

 

We were chasing that earlier in this thread (Pages 3 & 4) but I don't think we ever got to a conclusion of where exactly power was being lost at.

 

Yeah we kinda where just chasing our tails with the fuse box ig also so hapoy its out of limp mode just did a burnout for the first time in a year at 2am , if we cant find out why power is being lost would it be sketchy to run a permanent wire from a keyed 12v source to the connection?

 

I guess you could but IIRC much more than the MAF was missing power so I would really reccomend finding and fixing the actual problem.

 

True, domt want it to just become an issue later again, any schematics that show where the wire is routed or any fuses ect that send power to this 12v dource really dont wanna have to unwrap the harness loom

 

I think we had pretty much determined it was something under the fuse box at or near the junction box where 2A and 2B are but you never went any further.