TORSPD: NEVR

Bama's kit.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rical-system-upgrade-is-now-available.318682/

You can just google Big 3 upgrade and get plenty of hits. Pretty common in the car audio scene.

 

Here you can see the ground wiring from the alternator and starter going to the battery
i

And alternator to fuse box wire that I replaced

 

Those pictures are terrific! Thank you!

 

@armyoffoo , which gauge did you use?

 

Install went good! Neighbor came over and helped for most of the day, so i started at about 9 AM or so and pulled the truck out of the garage with no leaks at about midnight! Got the reflash the next morning, and installed intake, exhaust and Y pipe as soon as i got back home. Gauges are up and running, whew, you guys aren't kidding, I'm popping down to 10.0 at full throttle, hovering in the mid 11s while pulling hard.

Just got down to Southern California after driving from NorCal all night. Driving back up on Monday, so its getting a nice break in!

Installed-
Hurst core shifter with hurst T handle
AEM wideband
Speedhut -30/+15 boost gauge
TRD S/C
AFE Stage II Si ProDry CAI
URD Mark III 3" Exhaust (Didnt realize it was a magnaflow muffler...sounds awesome though)
URD Ypipe

To be installed-
URD 2.85 Stealth pulley
Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers

And im still sitting on my Maf Calibrator...not sure if i want to install it or not...I might try to find a unichip dealer nearby for something more plug and play.

 

The pictures...

 

I used 1/0 for everything except the alternator to fuse box, that is 4 gauge. Red wiring goes to distribution block and starter, blue goes to fuse box and then to alternator, black goes to stock location, chassis and starter.

 

I bet you felt like a little kid once you got heavy into that skinny pedal! @VolcomTacoma

 

Yea buddy!!! Wife had me on a leash the whole drive down since we had our new born in the truck with us...but Ive got to let her loose a couple times on my own, and it is so much fun! Definitely grinning ear to ear! Now i want to install headers and pulley and go get dyno'd to see where i stand! Definitely getting a new clutch once this one burns out...way to much lag on shifts...probably alot of my fault not rev matching perfectly, but i can still feel it taking a second or two to catch up every time...i see a twin disk in my future

 

Wat, you only rev match on downshifts, unless that's what youre talking about. The clutch has nothing to do with lag, it's an on off switch basically. let your foot out faster haha.

 

Well, when i punch it and shift and pop out the clutch it feels like its taking forever to clutch in and match up for max power. So its more like one of those sliding switches lol

 

Gear shifting-
Push in clutch
Shift to next gear
Punch throttle
Lift clutch foot as fast as possible

Listen to engine level out over a second or two, like clutch is just not mating up quickly

 

Clutch is probably slipping. Keep it up so you have an excuse to get a comp clutch.

 

Yup lol

 

Try not getting into skinny pedal before clutch is let out unless you are trying to kill your clutch. Personally I like the stock clutch for drivability.

 

That defeats the purpose of going fast then lol

 

Dropping the clutch every gear shift is a good way to fuck things up imo.

 

Im not doing it every shift lol. I know how to drive a stick shift. Im saying that when im trying to get on it, the clutch just doesnt keep up

 

The stock 6sp clutch engagement point is WAAAAAAY too damn high. That is something I never liked, or mastered. I couldn't shift smoothly putting around town to save my life. The only time I could be smooth with it was laying down the skinny pedal, honestly. It's all in the arm/foot timing.

Owned 3 manual toyota pickups before the 6sp with the flawless 5sp's and loved those for the butter operation.

Soon as I switched out the 6sp's clutch to an upgraded URD, all my faith was restored in it. Nice mid-pedal engagement point and butter operation. Reverse is geared TERRIBLY on the 6sp's so an earlier engaging clutch(especially backing up on a hill) will need more gas pedal to avoid the jerkiness.


While a twin disc GENERALLY has smooth operation, the $1200 IMO isn't worth the hit unless you are absolutely needing something to hold over 500ft lbs of torque to the wheels. I always heed on the side of getting "enough" clutch and not overkill for the powertrain setup. FWIW, I have driven some really harsh twin discs just in my active trackday hobbyist days. For a daily driver, not my prime choice unless my daily driver is Tor's truck lol.

 

Spec Clutch Stage 2+, or URD brand clutches. The Competition Clutch brand, are unreliable for the 1GR Tacoma.