Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

I put in the converter today, 10 miles on it. Well, It took part of Saturday and part of Sunday.

There is a difference in the vibration between the rumble strip and the shudder. I think it has more to do with RPM and how much your foot is in it so to speak.

Chugging, that rings a bell as a description how it acts, when not rumble stripping. Tune up, what's that? haha...... uh. I did throw plugs in at 200k, filters, don't think I've ever cleaned the throttle body. It runs like a pickle seeder, just has the shudder BS. Seems to shift fine as well.

Not sure on what codes but I got a check engine light on and a traction light on after doing the torque converter. I did run it with no drive shafts and am guessing the difference between wheel speed sensors and the transmission pissed someone off. I have some sort of thing I can plug in and get codes I think. Ill see what it is tomorrow morning. Im just some dumb logger, give me a beat up bull dozer any day over this thing.

Edit, she's doing laundry tomorrow. Do you recommend tide liquid or tide pods for cleaning the throttle body?




Think I've seen throttle body cleaner at the parts stores

 

Can someone here tell me the shipping weight of a drained A750f without torque converter. Trying to get a quote to ship my tranny and can't find the weight anywhere. Thanks!

 

2007 tacoma trd sport, 244k with regular maintenance. noticeable shudder in first gear from about 5-10 mph until it shifts into 2nd. Doesn't matter if truck is cold or hot. Shudder is worse with more aggressive acceleration. Had the driveline checked and it appears to be in good order. Did a full AT flush with BG fluid conditioner. Shudder still present. I have looked through a lot of the thread and it seems like the torque converter is the culprit. But I've also seen anything from VVT solenoids to saggy leaf springs can cause shudders as well.

 

@gearcruncher first thank you for compiling all of this great info with sources and links to documents. Second I seem to have the converter lock up clutch issue. I noticed a slight shudder and found your thread. So far i have used a tube of sudder fixx that made it better but only for 500mi or so. Followed by a drain and fill with toyota ws and lube guard platinum at proper treat rate.that also made it better for about 1000mi. Just did a second and third drain and fill with toyota ws and lubeguard platinum and the transmission has never shifted so well but at about 400mi after going up a steep hill to the base of the ski area the shudder returned. Im going to get a tube of shudder fix or two into it and see if that does the trick but im looking at needing the converter replaced at this point or would dropping the pan and adjusting the slu solinoid potentially help?

 

Toyota started steering away from the adjustable SLU solenoids .
That being said it is hit or miss if you actually have that solenoid .
Whats your mileage ?
Lubeguard takes a week of driving to deglaze the converter clutch facings.
For most members here at Tacoma World , just dropping the pan and changing the fluid and adding lubeguard fixes them up
If the shudder keeps coming back , you may need to dig deeper into the problem
High mileage transmissions may need valve body work to get the shudder to go away
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1774-oversized-lockup-relay-valve-kit

 

@gearcruncher , I had just dropped it off at a national chain transmission shop before I got your response. I was shocked when they called and said they couldnt find anything wrong. Shutter had disappeared. Lubeguard must have worked its way into all the nooks and crannies. Picked it up and I can no longer hear/ feel the rumble strip. I plan to do a pan drop and filter change at some point this summer to get everything on baseline as well as installing a better fluid cooler. I saw you like the trucool models any thoughts on mishimotos kit (https://www.mishimoto.com/transmission-cooler-toyota-tacoma-2005-2011.html) Truck is at 138000mi and I plan on keeping her for a long time.

 

Wow those are nice coolers . Expensive but nice .
If you live in a warm area of the world , that cooler will be fine .
If you live in a chilly part of the world , a Truecool may be a better choice .
There is more detail into why i choose Truecool at this link
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-toyotas-write-up-with-many-pictures.526283/

I think once you get the pan off , you may have a better idea as to what is going on
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-2nd-gen-transmission-pan-and-filter.726329/

 

Wow, what a thread, it's taken me a few days to get through it. Thanks @gearcruncher for putting this together!

I recently purchased an 08 4x4 with 180k that had a host of engine and transmission ailments. After performing a tuneup on the motor and dropping the trans pan and flushing it with Valvoline Max-life, many of the problems are gone or at least minimized. The fluid was brown but didn't smell burnt and the magnets only had a little bit of sludge accumulation, so I'm hoping the remaining problems are valve body related.

The shift into D is delayed and harsh. Going into R is quick and smooth. This hasn't changed.

Downshifts from 5-4th are very harsh under acceleration or while moving the shifter under steady load. The fluid change improved this.

Under light acceleration, the truck jerks violently around 30mph for a few seconds. Tapping the brake pedal doesn't seem to stop it. The tune-up reduced this. I believe replacing the boots between the coils and plugs will eliminate it.

Occasionally while stopped, it feels like I've been rear-ended.



My plan is to install a Sonax Zip kit, replace the SLT solonoid and add Lubeguard. Am I on the right track? Is there anything else I should address or look at while I'm in there?

Thanks in advance!

 

thats a fatastic start . The slt should clean up a lot of your harshness

 

@gearcruncher , 2nd what @KSracer said - outstanding thread! that's for your knowledge and time!!

 

@gearcruncher great thread, thank you for all the information. I'm a mechanic but we don't really work on transmissions besides the odd torque converter or just replacing them as a whole, so my knowledge in this world is limited. I've got some questions about my A750F in my 2007 tundra if you wouldn't mind bouncing back... two years ago I tossed a converter in my truck to fix the shuddering, it had been going on a long time and I finally fixed it with the tc. Fast forward and now I have code P2757; I initially thought the tc was bad again because I was getting some slight shudders, I put shudder stop in and it stopped them. Code is still persistent at highway speeds, if left in S4 code doesn't pop up. I'm hoping the code is for low fluid, I plan on draining and pulling the pan this weekend to swap filters as well, some of the tundra guys recommend filling the trans up with an extra 1/2-1Qt, so gonna try that first. If that doesn't fix it, I was looking at the TransGo shift kit or just getting a new valve body. I'm kind of at a loss here, I'm going to inspect the wiring for the solenoids when I pull the pan to see if they're corroded and I'll also catch the old fluid and send it off to get tested. Am I just pissing in the wind with the transgo kit? Or would a new valve body even help? Side note, I occasionally get a knocking sound that I believe I have traced to the transmission, happened more when it was cold outside and goes away after putting it in drive, but when thrown in reverse and revved, the knocking persists (doesn't happen next key cycle), from my research this could indicate a failing valve body, so if thats the case perhaps its too far gone to do the Transgo kit? (Truck has 265k miles on it, fluid was flushed at 235k with the new torque converter with valvoline maxlife trans fluid)

 

I think Sonnax is going to be your friend for your situation https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3477-zip-kit
The Sonnax kit is a little pricey , but there are more parts in the Sonnax kit that focus on worn parts rather than turning up the pressure like the trans-go does .
You can also purchase valve bodies from Sonnax but $$$$$$$$$
Lubeguard platinum will also help

Wondering what the condition of your SLU solenoid looks like ?
How much junk is laying in the bottom of the pan and on the magnets ?
That tells you the condition of the transmission .If the pan is full of clutch material , you are going to need a plan B

There are a lot of low mileage Tundras in the wrecking yards
Are you sure we are working with the A750 series transmission ?
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...aults-in-a761-ab60-a960-6-speed-transmissions

I do like the theory of overfilling .

knocking inside a transmission is very very unusual . You sure your transmission mounts are good ? try some stall testing in reverse with someone under the truck looking at the mounts .
That being said , it would be nice to know what the pressures are inside the transmission when you hears the knocks ?
Pressure gauge connects to the pressure port on the side of the transmission

 

Hmm, depending on the money for the sonnax kit, I might just go with a new valve body, I got quoted a new one from Toyota for $977 + shipping so thats not terrible; figured I would try the $200 kit from transgo, but might be too far gone. I have shudder stop in it right now and when I refilled it I have a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix I was gonna put in as well, that Lubeguard looks like good stuff though, might have to pick some up.

Unsure of the SLU solenoid condition, when I pull the pan I'll make sure to take lots of pictures, when I pulled the pan at 235k miles the magnets looked good, almost no metal shavings if I remember right. I will take a peak at them again to see how the new tc is doing.

Yessir positive I have the A750F, thats what my door sticker states and I've already pulled the trans once so very confident in that. I've got an 07 with the 4.7L engine so it also has the A750 trans

I'll look into picking up a pressure gauge, I recorded underneath the truck when the knocking was happening last, I didn't see any unusual transmission play or movement, I'll take a look at the mounts this weekend. I can't confirm the knocking is coming from the transmission, I combed over the entire engine and transmission with a stethoscope the last time it happened, I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from; I could hear the sound through pretty much every part, but I take that as sound resonance vibrating through everything

Thank you again for your time and help, its greatly appreciated, I'll keep you updated on the drain and fill this weekend

EDIT: Looks like the sonnax kit is high $300s to mid $400s, so at that point might as well spend the extra coin and get a new valve body unless I see something else as the culprit

 

$216 from RockAuto. They have the solenoids for $100 also. Don't forget to find some valve body gaskets. I still haven't installed mine. The LubeGuard solved a bunch of my issues.

 

do you need reaming tools like the transgo kit? Or this kit just swaps parts?

Also, what issues were you having?

 

No sir . No reamers in the zip kit
That's the benefit of the Sonnax kit .

I wouldn't trust some guys reaming out a valve body using a cordless drill .
Those reamers need to be perfectly straight when you open up the bores .
Helps if you have a jig to hold the valve body .

 

from the video I watched it includes a sleeve to hold the drill bit and reamer perfectly square to the valve body, but yes I wouldn't trust it to be perfect either. Also nice not having to flush out a bunch of metal chips.

Gonna pick up the lubeguard this weekend, drain and fill the trans, change filter with a toyota OEM one, add the lubeguard and take pics and inspect everything. Hopefully the extra fluid will stop the problem, if not it'll be time to dig further.

Also looking at adding a legitimate transmission cooler to my trans as I just have the oil cooler puck/warmer. Currently the trans runs at like 215-225 degrees according to my scangauge, but its also off (on the cooler side) so I know my fluid isn't happy at all

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-toyotas-write-up-with-many-pictures.526283/

 

when you dropped the pan, did you do the fluid level check and not just replace what you removed?? My transmission did what you stated yours is doing, but went away after changing the fluid and getting the correct fluid level - it was way underfilled.

 

a couple guys over on the tundra forum have recommended adding 1/2 to 1 Qt extra once the check plug has come to a trickle