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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Nov 20, 2018 at 8:49 AM
    #9821
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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  2. Nov 20, 2018 at 8:51 AM
    #9822
    JacksonTacoma

    JacksonTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Magnuson SC, 2.5 pulley, hptuner, FPR mod, AFE Intake, URD longtube headers, JFR Y-pipe, 255 Deatschwerks, 76mm TB, Banks 3" exhaust, cam gears
    You Da Man
     
  3. Nov 20, 2018 at 8:55 AM
    #9823
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Doesn’t look too bad, we could easily get that done in a few hours. Hope you bought a OEM/Magnuson coupler.
    http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=57

    Edit: A few minutes too late and a few details short.
     
  4. Nov 20, 2018 at 8:57 AM
    #9824
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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  5. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #9825
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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  6. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #9826
    o0opackersfano0o

    o0opackersfano0o Well-Known Member

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    Magnuson supercharger, 2.6 quick change pulley, 76mm throttle body, Doug thorley long tubes, urd y pipe, wot box with 2 step, 170 thermostat, airaid intake, urd short throw, djm 3/4
  7. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:10 AM
    #9827
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    I have not personally done a coupler yet, but the process appears very straight forward. Remove the serpentine belt from setup, leave tensioner assembly in place and belt moved aside for now, remove dual pulley bracket, drain oil from supercharger, remove all bolts from front of blower assembly, remove front housing/snout assembly, replace coupler as needed, reinstall front housing/ snout assembly (which will be a tight fit going back in) refill blower with oil and reverse removal process for install process. Enjoy your now clatter free blower. :)
     
  8. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:18 AM
    #9828
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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  9. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:23 AM
    #9829
    mr.trd

    mr.trd Are you Recreationally Insane?

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    ZZPerformance website link is down is all. I just googled them and ordered my stuff that way. Just got it on Saturday. I got the coupler, the grease and the tube and syringe. Getting the oil from my local GM dealer. Got a new belt (fleetrunner of course) and debating on just getting the Roush tensioner and just being done with it. Performance wise, for a bit. Well maybe a 2.7 pulley.
     
    Roostfactor and 12TRDTacoma[OP] like this.
  10. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:24 AM
    #9830
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    You got all the candy ready!
     
    BassAckwards and mr.trd[QUOTED] like this.
  11. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:26 AM
    #9831
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Yes, my haste my oops. I got some kenne belle/Lucas oil a while ago. I'll use that.
     
  12. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:36 AM
    #9832
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    Don’t forget a tap to tap threads into the existing holes.
     
  13. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:37 AM
    #9833
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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  14. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:41 AM
    #9834
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    True. That project vaporized after the new music my s/c makes now.
     
  15. Nov 20, 2018 at 9:54 AM
    #9835
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    Informational information. The best kind.

    85D26487-F239-42E5-9344-5B706203D77C.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2018
  16. Nov 20, 2018 at 10:08 AM
    #9836
    mr.trd

    mr.trd Are you Recreationally Insane?

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    Quick question about the tensioners. I am wanting to go the Roush direction hoping it is a direct bolt on. But what generation of muuustang is the right one? Also to possibly sway me in the Steeda direction, How big of a pain in the ass is cutting that spring off? Was hoping that the Roush did no need that. And I like the idea of a slightly stiffer spring. I am still trying to research to see if the tensioner arm breaking might have to anything with the coupler being swapped out to a solid non spring loaded one and that putting all the pressure on the arm.
     
    loginfailed likes this.
  17. Nov 20, 2018 at 10:16 AM
    #9837
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    I think the Roush one is part number 404225.
     
    12TRDTacoma[OP] likes this.
  18. Nov 20, 2018 at 10:17 AM
    #9838
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The spring tension that a mildly stiffer spring on a more HD tensioner will offer will in no way reflect ultimate tensioner arm height which is set via the serpentine belt.

    If you have the correct serpentine belt size in place the tensioner arm height will be set at the proper height it needs to be in order to avoid striking the fan clutch. I have about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance between my tensioner and my fan clutch fins. The tensioner will never exceed that height and strike the clutch fins because the belt will never be as tight as it is now. Stretching of the belt will cause the tensioner to move backwards, not forwards towards the fins. Serpentine belt failure should it ever happen will cause the tensioner arm to go flying backwards, towards the drivers side frame, not further upward.

    The coupler does not affect tensioner action or longevity.

    For more information regarding which Roush tensioner to buy, please see my first post.

    As with any tensioner which is not directly provided by Magnuson, mild to moderate modification will be required to make it fit, but the end result is well worth the time and materials required to make it fit.

    I hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2018
  19. Nov 20, 2018 at 11:17 AM
    #9839
    mr.trd

    mr.trd Are you Recreationally Insane?

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    I have the fleetrunner belt for the 2.7-2.8 pulley all trimmed and ready to go. As for which Roush tensioner to get, I did use the link but it wants to know what generation of mustang it is going on to verify fitment so I thought it would be better to ask now. And doing more research on that linked site. You definitely linked the right one, no matter what the generation and year, it is always part# 404225. Again, good work and I will try not to make stuff more difficult than it needs to be.

    So now, Steeda or Roush? HMMM
     
  20. Nov 20, 2018 at 11:21 AM
    #9840
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Just remember, anything is an upgrade over stock. If you have access to a dremel or a smoothing tool take the wheel to the Roush words, then it is a nice blank HD unit.

    The only difference between the two will be the Roush is a fully fabricated upgraded unit utilizing stock design where as the the Steeda is a modified stock unit.

    If you really want to get real exotic, take the route I did and buy yourself a nice Thump tensioner unit as well as a 50mm double bearing roller idler from LFP off their ebay ad, modify and run it. Bank. I'll never have to think about it again and THAT is real price of mind.
     
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