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Trouble code P0705- will dealer help?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Zizo, Feb 3, 2010.

  1. Nov 27, 2010 at 7:12 PM
    #21
    scrinch

    scrinch New Member

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    Sorry to hear you are in the same boat. Please let us know if you find the root cause and a solution. Thanks.
    BG
     
  2. Feb 15, 2011 at 12:22 PM
    #22
    satodog

    satodog New Member

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    Hi everyone,
    After reading this thread I was really disaponted because everyone is paying around $1500. I was told yesterday that it will cost me $3000. I have a 2005 Tacoma 4 dorr with 53000 mi. I was told that my warranty has expired.
    This morning I called Toyota corporation and advised them of the issue. I told them that the wires were damaged because of a manufacturing defect. (water coming into the junction box through the wire harness) A nice man then advised me that there is no recall so they won't cover the problem. After answering questions for about 15 min. I was advised that If there is a recall, I will be re-embursed my money for fixing the issue. He then added t the more people that call and file a complaint the better it will be for a recall to be put in place.

    Please folks if you are having this problem call Toyota corp. 800-331-4331. Let them know about the issue and maybe we can all win in the end.

    Good luck to all.

    Satodog
     
  3. Feb 15, 2011 at 12:31 PM
    #23
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    I moded 1999 Taco so much it had turned to Land Cruiser
    More details, what junction box ?Pics?
     
  4. Feb 16, 2011 at 8:50 AM
    #24
    satodog

    satodog New Member

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    After talking to my local dealer, they have agreed to pay for the parts. They have asked me to pay for labor. This is a lot better than the $3000 the y first quoted me. The guys at the dealers have been great.

    My question is, and its what I asked Toyota; why do I have to pay anything at all. This is clearly a design flaw. Anyways its better than nothing.

    I'm still folks that if they have this problem to call Toyota and lets get a recall started.

    Here is a link that shows the problem.
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/18857706/TSB027709

    Sato
     
  5. May 6, 2012 at 9:00 AM
    #25
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

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    Rochester, NY
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    2005 4x4 SR5 AC / 2007 4x4 FJC / 2021 Tesla Y
    Pro/2015 Coil-overs n shocks, Icon progressive AAL, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags and cradles, ECGS clamshell bushing, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, 2014 Navigation radio and backup camera, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech digifit floor mats and in channel window vents, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow, Pop and Lock PL8521
    Try the following before letting the dealer swap the wiring harness.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/86096-p0705-park-neutral-switch-2.html

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bobo [​IMG]
    Satodog, I do not have a remote starter installer.

    After visiting the dealer again after the $2000 wiring harness diagnosis and realizing that the connector that supposedly causes the problem is located on the left kick panel inside the truck I cancelled the harness order and did the following. I took the connector block apart and used contact cleaner on it and reinserted the harness plug several times to wipe the contacts. I really did not see any corrosion on the contacts. Second I sealed the bulkhead opening where the main wiring harness comes into the interior from the engine compartment using a tie wrap to bring the rubber boot close to the harness and waterproof tape. It has been several months and the shifting has been fine. I tried again to get some reasonable response form Toyota but it is a black hole.


    Update:
    I did the exact same "fix" Bobo describes above and the MIL or check engine light has gone off. I too did not see any visible signs of water or corrosion, but I used contact cleaner on the connector block and all 4 plugs that connect to it. I used some zip ties on the rubber boot in the engine compartment and then wrapped with electrical tape to help seal that entrance. This seems to have done the trick. Thanks a bunch tacomaworld and especially Bobo, Maxa and Joes06tacoma for their posts. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Helpful links with pictures:

    This link shows pics of junction block and engine compartment entrance:
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/18857706/TSB027709

    This link has picks/instructions on how to remove the kick panel:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...stall-oem.html

    PS. I didn't go to the dealer, but you would think Toyota would offer a similar fix as opposed to charging several grand to replace a wiring harness.
     
  6. Jun 30, 2013 at 2:23 PM
    #26
    SWM

    SWM Well-Known Member

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    i also have this issue, sort of. No alram installed but i did connect a reverse camera that taps into the reverse circuit.
    i get the check engine light now and then with code P0705 but more often than not the issue is that the truck won't start while in park. I have to shift to neutral. Then it starts no problem. Goes into reverse very easy, but then it won't register D. I have to shift to 4, then pull down on the shifter so the 4lights up on the indicator... then I can put it in drive and it's ok. sometimes it shifts pretty hard int drive.

    this went away for a while when i cleaned the contacts in the kick panel area, but it's come back recently. I didn't close off the gromet from the engine compartment through, so i will clean it up again and seal it off this time. \
     
  7. Jul 1, 2013 at 12:43 PM
    #27
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

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    Pro/2015 Coil-overs n shocks, Icon progressive AAL, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags and cradles, ECGS clamshell bushing, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, 2014 Navigation radio and backup camera, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech digifit floor mats and in channel window vents, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow, Pop and Lock PL8521
    My problem has not returned since I sealed up the entrance through the firewall. It seems like the problem with mine was that water would come through and follow the wires down to the junction box and when it was wet I would get the error or check engine light.
     

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