Trouble Starting (After New Battery & Alternator Test)

Okay, I got an 03 Xtracab PreRunner 2.7L L4 and I have a slight issue.

The truck runs great, at more than 260,000km (160,000mi) either than a couple of evap codes which I was told not to worry about its great and I've done lots to it as well.

I got my battery replaced in March of this year because it just needed a new one and this was a couple of months after I bought the truck so I thought why not. Recently, starting the truck it cranks over if you know what I mean, it sounds like it's struggling to start.

So I got my alternator tested and they said it's in great condition (from Toyota themselves)

Every time I start the truck, I turn it to the ON position for 5-10seconds to let the fuel pump prime, which reminded me that I don't ever hear it prime but this could be the fuel pump or filter however when asking for a quote from Toyota they said it's $200 CAN NOT including labour OR tax.

If you didn't know I'm a student and trying to save my money so I really don't want to be spending upwards of 300 dollars for this.

What I am wondering is if anyone knows what could be causing this issue?

The throttle body has been cleaned and I'm getting the IAC cleaned in a few weeks.

New air filter, spark plugs, battery as I mentioned and many more things my only guess would be the fuel pump.

The oil is great too and I don't need another oil change for another 6,000km

By the way, all the service is done by Toyota themselves, I don't get anything done by anyone else.

Again, if anyone had suggestions please let me know unless you for sure know it may be the fuel filter.

 

Fuel pump doesn't run in ON position.
Only runs while cranking and running engine.

 

To start off with, the fuel pump doesn't prime along the lines which you are thinking. There isn't electricity going to the pump until you turn the key.

Considering the pump is hard (ish) to replace, there are a few other things to go for before that.

I'd consider checking out wiring- from the bat to alt and starter. Check out the starter- you can rebuild the starter / contacts for fairly cheap. A fuel filter does not cost $200 CAN. They're like $70 USD. $45 MSRP USD. I'd be asking them what parts they included in changing the fuel filter before proceeding on that front. Fuel Injectors might be possible. Or maybe you can try some of the fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank snake oil and see what results you get... or 50-to-100 miles before your next oil change, put 1/3 a can sea foam into gas tank, engine oil, intake (PCV valve, not brake booster) and see what that does for you.

 

Thankyou for your help

 

the fuel pump will only receive voltage under 2 conditions. The first is when the starter is cranking the motor over and the second is when the motor is running under its own power.

your cranking problem is one of bad connections and or bad cables.


edit:

with bad connections and or cables, both positive and negative, the majority of the omph, the amperage from the battery, is being used to overcome the resistance in the cables. When the amperage is excessive the voltage will drop and the PCM requires a certain voltage to fire the ignition coils... ~ 9.5 to 10 volts.

the $200 quote is telling you they dont really want to do that job. You will have to be careful because a bargain rate job could cost $$$ in the future. If the fuel filter is original, they can be really difficult to loosen the fuel lines, not only from how tight they are but with the bad location it is in. If they dont use a flare wrench there is the possibility of rounding off the steel flare nuts and now you have a real problem.

 

They need to take off the block of the engine to get to the fuel filter which is why its so expensive they said but you are right a fuel filter from NAPA Gold runs me like 30 bucks so its not the parts, its the labour.

 

Man, that is a dishonest dealer. Do you have a paper quote or any way to prove that's what they told you? Do you have a Candian Better Business Bureau or equivalent you can tip-off?

The fuel filter is on the outside of the vehicle roughly under the driver's seat. There is nothing in the engine bay, especially not anything to do with the block, that would need to even be touched to replace the fuel filter. It's a 30 min job or less for an experienced tech.

This video should give you a rundown of the entire process to change a fuel filter.
https://youtu.be/vdDhXZIs6Lo

The Fuel Pressure Regulator is a more expensive part, which would require the removal (at least on the v6, not sure about the i4) of the upper intake manifold to replace... However, you would have to rule out other items before replacing the FPR. Beyond the upper intake manifold (on the v6) there is nothing else that would have to be removed to gain access to the entire fuel delivery system. I mean, there is a possibility I'm incorrect based on unfamiliarity with the 2.7l motor, but that's not likely going to change the position of the fuel filter.

 

That's true for the 3.4, but OP has the 2.7L. I don't know about removing the head, but I have read the fuel filter is in the engine bay and it's a pain to replace.

 

Alright- fair enough, looks like the 2.7l is different... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-7l-fuel-filter-replacement-diy-in-6-easy-steps.308395/ (the pictures in the post are broken, but not in the attached pdf- good work outta the OP) I still don't see anything about "removing the block".

 

I appreciate the help, i thought you would have seen but its a 2.7l L4 not a V6 so its under the head. As for evidence, I asked them in person and they just told me that's all.

 

Yeah i though he would have seen 2.7 in my description but for the 2.7 its under the block.

 

fuel filter is under the throttle body... fuxk all that! check dudes thread out here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-2-4l-2-7l-fuel-filter-relocation-mod.349406/ prolly do mine this summer.

 

Why do people get upset over dealer pricing on parts when they have no idea what is actually wrong with their vehicle.

You're not in any position to gripe about prices when all you're doing is throwing parts at the problem anyways

If you're wondering about fuel delivery, put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see how quickly the pressure shows up when cranking.

A weak battery may still be possible even though it's fairly new, battery quality is crap these days. Put a voltmeter across the terminals, disable spark or fuel, crank the engine for 5-8 seconds and see if the voltage drops below 10. If it does the battery is weak.

 

Rest bud, if you read it im trying to save money. I understand what i get for spending that much, quality. Never said im upset lol

 

Well for what it's worth I've never fixed a car problem with a fuel filter. The only time I saw one causing a problem was on a flex-fuel Ranger and some other shop installed it backwards.

They have to be reeeeaallly clogged to cause a problem. If the filter was in fact clogged you'd have other problems other than just hard starting. It would lack power under acceleration, wouldn't want to go up hills, etc. Any fuel pressure/delivery problem will show up as high fuel trims on a scan tool.

What are the evap codes? A stuck open purge valve could cause a hard start

 

Yes they are:

- P0446: EVAP System vent control circuit
- P0441: EVAP System incorrect purge flow
- P0442: EVAP System small leak detected

I went to the dealer about this and they said its not worth it to spend $600-$700 on a new vapour/charcoal canister to be installed with all of its attachments.
The vapour canister is what was needed to fix the codes they said.

Also, after reading a bunch of replies I'm now starting the truck right up without going into the ON position.

Sofar so good, starts right up. Maybe i had no problem in the first place but I wanted to completely make sure.