1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Updated T-SB-0326-08 Oil Leak

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BeefTaco, Oct 31, 2008.

  1. Oct 31, 2008 at 10:43 AM
    #1
    BeefTaco

    BeefTaco [OP] WESTern Alliance: NORCAL COAST

    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Member:
    #6481
    Messages:
    623
    Gender:
    Male
    Santa Cruz County Ca.
    Here is an updated T-SB that supersedes TSB No. EG051-07 that now includes 08's T-SB-0326-08.

    T-SB-0326-08.pdf
     
  2. Nov 2, 2008 at 4:36 PM
    #2
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Member:
    #872
    Messages:
    10,165
    First Name:
    Hotdog
    Vehicle:
    2007 PreRunner SR5 Double Cab
    Wet Okole Underwear
    Thanks Dave.
     
  3. Nov 2, 2008 at 4:39 PM
    #3
    hoosiertaco

    hoosiertaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Member:
    #9084
    Messages:
    4,928
    Hope I'm not out of line on this thread to ask if anyone has had it done on their '08 and where?:)
     
  4. Nov 2, 2008 at 4:41 PM
    #4
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Member:
    #872
    Messages:
    10,165
    First Name:
    Hotdog
    Vehicle:
    2007 PreRunner SR5 Double Cab
    Wet Okole Underwear
    how dare you! :p

    TW doesn't care where you ask such a question.
     
  5. Nov 2, 2008 at 4:42 PM
    #5
    hoosiertaco

    hoosiertaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Member:
    #9084
    Messages:
    4,928
    cool...:cool:
     
  6. Nov 2, 2008 at 4:48 PM
    #6
    Neubs

    Neubs Sold my Tacoma. Goodbye TW.

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2008
    Member:
    #9194
    Messages:
    1,024
    Gender:
    Male
    Maryland
    Vehicle:
    06 TRD Offroad DC 4X4
    ToyTec 5100 Bilstein Adjustable Coilovers w/ Eibach Springs | OME Darkar Leaf Springs | 5150 10" Bilstein Rear Shocks| Light Racing UCAs | All Pro U-Bolt Flip Kit | Timbren Rear Bumps | Extended Stainless Steel Rear Brake Lines | ARB CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor | Method 16" Race Wheels | Goodyear 285/70/16 MTR | 48" Hi-Lift Jack | ToyTec Diff Drop | Warn Hitch Shackle | TRD Cold Air Intake | PIAA Intense White Bulbs | PIAA Silicone Wipers | Toyota Bed Mat |Sockmonkey Graphics | 20% Tint | Sport Hood | Scan Gauge II & Blend Mount | Shrockworks Sliders | ARB Bumper | Warn M8000 Winch | Viking Synthetic Winch line | 12-Volt Guy In-Dash Winch Controller | Viking Delrin Rollers | Daystar Winch Isolator| ARB/IPF 900XS Lights | Weather Tech Liners | Rock Lights | Diff Breather Mod | Extra Bed D-Rings | Misc. LED bulbs throughout
    I had this done to my 06. It took the dealer two days to do it.
     
  7. Nov 10, 2009 at 11:35 PM
    #7
    ikataco

    ikataco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
    Member:
    #25702
    Messages:
    119
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 DC Sport
    My 06 DC Sport w/53k has the leak too. I'll contact the dealer in the morning.

    For the people who had this TSB done, has the leak returned? How many miles traveled since this TSB?
     
  8. Nov 18, 2009 at 6:31 PM
    #8
    ikataco

    ikataco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
    Member:
    #25702
    Messages:
    119
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    06 DC Sport
    The dealer had the car for two days to complete

    TSB-0326-08 oil leak front timing cover
    and
    TSB-0173-09 A750E Transmission Extension Housing Seal Service Tip

    On your service invoice, what are the parts #s replaced when your Taco was serviced for TSB-0326-08?

    These are the parts replaced on my service invoice.

    11213-AD010 valve cover gasket, right
    11214-AD010 valve cover gasket, left
    00295-00103 FIPG
    2 x 90311-40001 seal, type T oil

    I'm not sure why part # 90311-40001 was replaced since it is an Automatic transmission - Extension housing seal. And, this part was listed for TSB-0173-09 as the original seal. The update part 90311-40034 is listed as the replacement for the transmission.
     
  9. Nov 18, 2009 at 7:01 PM
    #9
    dorkman

    dorkman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Member:
    #19474
    Messages:
    49
    Gender:
    Male
    Was a relief seeing my 2008 was not in the affected VIN range.
     
  10. Nov 18, 2009 at 9:44 PM
    #10
    mr2crazed

    mr2crazed Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 21, 2009
    Member:
    #17512
    Messages:
    192
    Gender:
    Male
    Morro Bay, CA.
    Vehicle:
    06 DC PreRunner SR5
    Wow, I had no idea about this TSB. Just reviewed it and my '06 VIN falls within the range. Guess I'll have to check for the leak. Good to see it falls in the 60k mile warranty.
     
  11. Dec 2, 2009 at 2:21 PM
    #11
    jamesjech

    jamesjech Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Member:
    #26504
    Messages:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    Austin
    Vehicle:
    06 PreRunner SR5 TRD Offroad
    OK, looks like I may have to the pay the piper. My timing cover is leaking at 80K miles on my 06 DC TRD Offroad. My mechanic said it's a small leak so I need to just watch the oil level and stay off any serious "offroading" to avoid dirt/contamination via the leak. Two questions: 1. when do you need to replace the timing chain. Service manual says 90K miles for most Toyota based trucks but I cannot find the specific listing for Tacoma's. If I'm due for a timing chain replacements I'll have it done all at once. 2. Has anyone replaced the timing cover seals and/or timing chain on their own? Would like to understand the scope/effort of the job. My boys and I have some mechanical skills... we can address most/all standard tune up/maintenance items and mods. The hardest mod recently was installing an SC on my 98 M3. Involved electrical, mechanical and some hydralic.
     
  12. Dec 2, 2009 at 6:04 PM
    #12
    HondaGM

    HondaGM Roll Tide

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2009
    Member:
    #25056
    Messages:
    5,769
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    James
    South-Pole
    Vehicle:
    09 DC 4x4 Blown Honda VTEC V8
    trd exhaust,step bars,vent visors,bed lights,tailgate mod
    i would do it myself,it would cost a cagillion dollars at the dealer:cool:
     
  13. Jan 13, 2010 at 8:54 PM
    #13
    MEANGREENTACOMA09

    MEANGREENTACOMA09 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2009
    Member:
    #18345
    Messages:
    148
    Gender:
    Male
    Memphis
    Vehicle:
    Timberland Mica 09 DBL CAB 4x4 TRD OFF ROAD
    TRD cat back exhaust, rain visors, limo tent on back pasenger windows and 35 percent added to back factory tint window. 35 on front driver and pasenger side. Sport pedals, all weather fl mats, roof rack, front skid plate , BFG ALL TERAINS including spare. ALL installed by dealer.
    Check with the service department first but on my 92 Toyota they told me they do not need replacing just adjusting. I'm hoping it is the same for our newer model Tacomas.
     
  14. Jan 14, 2010 at 9:10 AM
    #14
    OCTaco

    OCTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Member:
    #29321
    Messages:
    1,948
    Gender:
    Male
    OC
    Vehicle:
    '16 TRD Sport DCSB
    Reply to jamestech,
    I just found the same problem with my truck.AHH. How stressfull... The fact is that you don't have a timing chain, what you have is a timing belt which only needs to be adjusted and you probably wont need to do that for another 20-50K miles. The gasket itself is only worth about $50 and that's from the dealer. But if you want them to do it for you it gonna cost you about 1300. Its 12xx just in labor. F!%& them i would just do it myself. Im thinking about doing it myself only that i need some help. It is very labor intensive but nothing complicated going on. You need to make sure to buy gaskets for the valve covers, and the fuel injection system because youre going to need to replace those. Also, you might as well replace the oil pump, and crank shaft gaskets because those have been problematic in the 06 model as well and youve already done the work. If i were you i would wait till i hit about 100k, or till the seap turns into a leak and then set a weekend aside to knock it all out. Let me know what you decide to do
     
  15. Apr 28, 2010 at 7:10 PM
    #15
    geyemd

    geyemd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2010
    Member:
    #33146
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Maricopa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma PreRunner DCB Sport Speedway Blue
    OCTaco - All cars and trucks have a belt and a timing chain. What do you mean no timing chain? Even lawnmowers have chains (not timed though).

    I just bitch slapped this T-SB in the face!

    I have a 06 Tacoma PreRunner (RWD), SR5, 4.0L, 5 speed automatic, double cab, Sport, Speedway Blue with 82,000 miles (bought it used).

    For me the power train warranty is not in play. I would recommend for someone who has this issue and is still in the power train warranty range of 5 years or 60,000 miles to have the dealership take care of this.

    But if your like me, I would recommend doing this yourself to save lots of $$$ and to learn a little bit more about your truck. Also, take your sweet ass time, I did all of this in 5 days after work each day - a pro, like a Toyota technician would have this done in under 8 hours.

    If your serious about tackling this yourself, get these:

    • Get a repair manual: http://bit.ly/bmFVDD
    • Also reference the Toyota OEM repair manual for 05+ Tacoma's : http://bit.ly/aRy17Y
    • Get the proper tools (see repair manuals) Don't attempt doing this with any chicken shit tools
    • A engine 'conversion gasket set' ($50-60). Go here: http://www.rockauto.com and search for your model truck, under Engine > there should be a Conversion Gasket Set folder

    Below are some pictures that I took, sorry for not taking a pic at every step, I was going to shoot a time elapsed video but, I got lazy, ha.

    [​IMG]

    (pic above) Taken after radiator and valve covers (or as Toyota officailly calls them 'cylinder head cover sub-assembly[FONT=&quot]'[/FONT]) were removed.

    [​IMG]

    (pic above) Taken after timing cover was removed.

    [​IMG]

    (pic above) MISC parts everywhere.

    [​IMG]

    (pic above) The timing cover w/ water pump (cleaned up).

    [​IMG]

    (pic above) All put back together.


    In doing this the hardest parts were:

    • Taking off and putting on the crankshaft pulley bolt (185 ft/lbs). When taking it off, use the proper crankshaft pulley tool to hold the pulley while taking the bolt off with a breaker bar. When putting it on, same thing, but use a torque wrench to tighten.
    • Applying the RTV silicone on the timing cover and aligning it up with the crankshaft and tightening all 24 bolts/2 nuts before the silicone dried (10-15 minutes). Recommend to dry fit the timing cover so the oil pump aligns with the crankshaft angle.
    • Other than those two things, this was easy.
    Post pictures if you attempt this.

    It was actually kind of fun, plus I think my truck runs a little better because of the fixed oil pressure and I applied all bolts to the spec'ed torque.

    Take care.
     
  16. Jan 19, 2011 at 11:59 AM
    #16
    SurfnWolf

    SurfnWolf Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2008
    Member:
    #5798
    Messages:
    74
    Fayetteville NC
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tacoma Prerunner Double Cab
    nice write up and pictures, I didnt even know about this TSB under reading about the rear seal transmission leak...then saw this, and of course my 06 has the same problem!!! ugh... Looks like a big job and one i might try at some point. One thing, it seems like a small leak, i mean you dont have to add any oil over the course of normal oil change of 5,000 miles..

    If you put this off and never do it, I wonder what problems you could run into?
     
  17. Jan 30, 2011 at 10:14 AM
    #17
    geyemd

    geyemd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2010
    Member:
    #33146
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Maricopa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma PreRunner DCB Sport Speedway Blue
    Thanks SurfnWolf!

    It is a small leak, but with time it will only get worse. Before doing this, I should have taken before pictures to show you guys what happens when you just wait it out. It will not leak a crap load of oil within a oil change period, but it's just annoying that it does leak.

    Obviously when the engine gets hot, the oil gets very thin and pressure builds within the engine. If there's any small leak of pressure the thinned oil will leak and because the truck is being driven the oil leaks down and back. After it leaks and cools down, after time it builds up gunk. Well, in my case the entire passenger side of the engine (everything below where it was leaking to the back of the transmission) was gunk! And any excess oil was dripping on my car port. My OCD kicked in and I had to fix it.

    The bottom line is that if you wait it out it will just get worse. Crawl under your truck and look up at your power steering pump. If you see fresh oil everywhere with a gunk trail (similar to what I described) than I would suggest fixing it.

    BTW, maybe the newer Tacoma's have a 5,000 mile oil change limits (like my 2009 Toyota Corolla), but it should be 3,500.

    Mark
     
  18. Nov 14, 2012 at 7:04 AM
    #18
    BlazeAce

    BlazeAce Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2011
    Member:
    #60754
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    AL
    Vehicle:
    04 Super White
    Took me about a week to finish this off, but only because I started before my pulley holding tool arrived. Here are a few pictures of the oily mess down the passenger side of the engine.
    IMG_2913.jpg
    IMG_2912.jpg
    Oil was slowly leaking out while the truck was being driven and was not spotting on the driveway. Replaced the water pump, spark plugs, fluids, and various gaskets along the way. Couldn't have done it without this thread, so I will add to it. More detailed write up in progress! :taco:
     
  19. Nov 14, 2012 at 8:55 AM
    #19
    BlazeAce

    BlazeAce Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2011
    Member:
    #60754
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    AL
    Vehicle:
    04 Super White
    Before we begin:
    1) Do research-Know what you are getting yourself into before you start taking things apart. As is stated in other posts in this thread, this is not a particularly difficult thing to do, but it does take close attention to detail.

    2) Have all parts and tools ready before you begin-I did not have everything ready, and I had to sit for a few days :goingcrazy: I ordered OEM parts from RockAuto. Their prices were best, even with shipping.

    Parts I Used
    Conversion Gasket Set-recommended but not necessary(water pump included its own gaskets and you could get by using gray RTV from Autozone)
    Water pump-Though the water pump was not failing, I replaced it since it was convenient
    Valve Cover Gaskets w/grommets
    Spark Plugs-they were due, and easy to get to
    Serpentine Belt-also due for replacement
    Toyota Super Long-life(pink) Coolant-I used just over 2 gallons
    Oil & Filter

    Tools
    Socket/Ratchet set
    Hex bit socket set
    Pliers
    Wrenches
    Breaker bar(bigger the better)
    Torque wrench(Max torque used is for crank pulley,185ft-lbs, but other bolts are in-lbs, so 2 could be used)
    Clamps(or saran wrap and rubber bands):D
    Pry bar set
    Various extensions(makes life easier)
    Crank Pulley Holding tool-essential for this job*(explanation of how to use this tool is discussed here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/97482-crank-pulley-bolt-removal-easy-way.html )
    Repair Manual-recommended, but hopefully I can explain this well so you won't need one
    *there is a parts list on the link that will come in handy too!

    3)Take it easy. If something won't come loose, take a break. I have only screwed things up when I get impatient or angry.:mad: Broken stuff costs $$$:frusty: Just go eat a :sandwich: instead.

    4)Stay organized! I recommend labeled plastic baggies to keep track of your bolts, nuts, and plastic rivets. Pictures can also be helpful if you forget how something attaches.

    5) I am going to try to not cover things that have already been covered elsewhere, such as oil and coolant draining and replacement. That is what searching is for.
     
  20. Nov 14, 2012 at 11:41 AM
    #20
    BlazeAce

    BlazeAce Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2011
    Member:
    #60754
    Messages:
    55
    Gender:
    Male
    AL
    Vehicle:
    04 Super White
    These steps are in the order that I did them, and I will note when I drained fluids. There may be a better order to do this in, and you may not have to do all the steps to get to the timing cover. I just did what was recommended in the manual so I would have more room to work with.

    Battery
    IMG_2914.jpg
    Start by disconnecting and removing the battery. Remove the clamps, then loosen the battery bracket. Once the front of the bracket is loose, it will slide off. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray.

    Skid Plate
    No picture, but it is pretty simple. There are 4 bolts holding the skid plate, one per corner.

    Air Intake and Filter Housing
    IMG_2917.jpg
    Undo the clips on the filter housing.
    IMG_2916.jpg
    Remove the 2 bolts from the air intake. Wiggle the air intake loose and remove.

    Engine Cover
    IMG_2918.jpg
    Undo the 2 nuts on the top of the engine cover. Lift the front and pull it off the support bar.

    Draining Coolant
    At this point, I drained the coolant. Just tried searching for a good DIY for coolant change, but none were very descriptive. To drain the coolant, first loosen the radiator cap(when the truck is cool). Then locate the stopcock on the driver side bottom of the radiator. Twist it counter-clockwise to open.
    IMG_2920.jpg
    There are also 1 but possibly 2 engine block drains for the coolant, but I couldn't locate them. Close the stopcock when the coolant has fully drained. Make sure to catch the stuff and recycle it.

    Grille and Fan Shroud Cover
    IMG_2921.jpg IMG_2922.jpg IMG_2923.jpg
    There are plastic pins holding the shroud cover in place. Pop them out and remove it. For the grille, there are 2 screws and 2 plastic pins holding it in place. Once they are out, lift the grille up to remove it.

    Fan and Shroud
    IMG_2934.jpg
    To remove the fan, use a wrench to loosen the nuts while jamming the fan with a pry bar or something(be creative:confused:). I used a serpentine belt tool held in a way that jammed the nuts on the fan. It is best not to remove the nuts until they are all loose(gotta have something to jam it with!). In my opinion, this was the second hardest part of the whole job. Those things are really on there!
    IMG_2928.jpg IMG_2930.jpg
    Remove the hoses attached to the radiator and transmission cooler using your pliers to move the clamps. To break the hoses free, try twisting and pulling, and if necessary, use a screwdriver to pry them off. Label them! I also used saran wrap and rubber bands on the hoses and their connections to keep out contaminants.
    IMG_2932.jpg IMG_2933.jpg
    The fan shroud has 2 bolts located on either side of the radiator. Remove them. Then, pull the fan off the pulley and lift it out while simultaneously lifting out the fan shroud. Careful not to damage the radiator.

    Radiator
    IMG_2931.jpg
    There are 4 bolts that hold the radiator in place. 2 are visible in the picture, and the other 2 are located behind the front bumper cover directly beneath the 2 in the photo. Use an extension to reach the lower bolts. If you hear loud popping when these come loose, it is ok nothing to worry about.:notsure: Once these are removed, the radiator pulls out the top easily. Mine had all kinds of gunk in it, and I cleaned it before reinstalling it.
     
To Top