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Upgraded alternator 3.4

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by EricU, Feb 13, 2015.

  1. Feb 13, 2015 at 6:50 AM
    #1
    EricU

    EricU [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so ive read a few threads about swapping to a GM alternator for a substantial increase in output for minimal cost. but the down side was they are 6 rib pullies while the trucks are set up for 4rib, are there any upgraded alternators with the correct pulley?

    I am planning on upgrading the alternator, doing the Big 3 upgrade with 1/0 cable in the near future and would like to get the correct pulley on there so i do not have to worry about the belt slipping or jumping off the pulley.

    any input or links to more in depth articles about this subject?
    i want to stick with an off the shelf alternator due to budget and ease of replacement if needed
     
  2. Feb 13, 2015 at 8:43 AM
    #2
    bpkrules

    bpkrules Well-Known Member

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  3. Feb 13, 2015 at 12:37 PM
    #3
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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  4. Feb 13, 2015 at 4:11 PM
    #4
    Sparkies coma

    Sparkies coma Well-Known Member

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    My son and I did a GM alternator Uon his 99 4 Runner using a stock alternator and alternstor wiring harness from a 95 Cadallic Deville. Bolted right up only using ONE 3/8 (10 MM) flat washer and a small amount of wire alteration on the harness. Took it from stock 85 amps to 140 amps. Will post a link if anyone is interested...
     
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  5. Feb 13, 2015 at 4:13 PM
    #5
    Sparkies coma

    Sparkies coma Well-Known Member

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    He's had no problems at all overvthr last year and will didn't change the pullys
     
  6. Feb 13, 2015 at 4:51 PM
    #6
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    I ended up going with a dc power engineering h/o alt. I assumed I'd have amazing output at such a crazy price point. It's a sweet alt. And looks sick. But I regret now not going with a gm or bama toys alternative. I paid like $400 for the dcpe. It works amazing, but not during the summer heat here in az. My lights tend to flicker a tad. Granted I probly need to run a second battery, but still, would've been cheaper with an alternative.

    Here's the one I got;
    https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Toyota~Tacoma~2001~3.4L-V6-5VZ-FE/13671-180-hp.html
     
    Luv my yota likes this.
  7. Feb 13, 2015 at 5:02 PM
    #7
    Sparkies coma

    Sparkies coma Well-Known Member

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    Here's the link we used from toyota4runner.org. It should work the same as out trucks since both have the 3.4L V-6
     
  8. Feb 13, 2015 at 6:34 PM
    #8
    EdFlecko

    EdFlecko Well-Known Member

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    I'd be very interested in seeing this! :) Ed
     
  9. Feb 13, 2015 at 6:42 PM
    #9
    LogCabins

    LogCabins Well-Known Member

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  10. Feb 13, 2015 at 6:54 PM
    #10
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Thanks for all the great words everyone! I do appreciate it!
     
  11. Feb 13, 2015 at 9:03 PM
    #11
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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    Besides running a huge stereo or a winch, what is the benefit to a more powerful alt?
     
  12. Feb 13, 2015 at 10:41 PM
    #12
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Well I'm no expert. But basically, the more electronics you add, the more your battery drains and you need an alt to keep up with charging it. draw too much power and your battery won't charge properly. Or in the case of lights, too many and you experience the same thing, except with flickering because the battery isn't putting out enough power/amps. winches will be struggling too. Also helps with powering stuff more effectively at a constant rate with the big 3 upgrade. Not to mention, not putting a load on your trucks other main electronics.

    Edit: And another note. Most vehicles come equipped with an alt designed for the vehicles stock equipment. Yes you can run more things without experiencing issues. That's why larger vehicles with more electronics demand more power thus have bigger rated alts. 1st gen alts are pretty wimpy. So changing one out with a bigger alt evens things out and compensates for he extra demand you're adding into it. The stock ones will work ok at cruising speeds. But low rpm applications will suffer the most. For example winches are used when idling so they will demand a ton of power and the stock alt just won't keep up as much as the winch needs it to. Idk I may be wrong on some of this. This is just what I assumed and have learned over time. Still a noob myself at some of this. I'll be running a second battery before too long and I have no clue where to start on wiring that up.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
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  13. Feb 14, 2015 at 8:17 AM
    #13
    EricU

    EricU [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I put a DC Power Inc alt. on my 6.0 powerstroke van, great alternator but way too much cost wise for what im wanting to accomplish. but dang it would be awesome to have one of the billet cased ones thats 270amp ha
     
  14. Feb 14, 2015 at 2:12 PM
    #14
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Haha I know right!? 200 idle amps!!!!:drool:
     
  15. Feb 14, 2015 at 2:31 PM
    #15
    se7enine

    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    I wish I knew someone who worked for denso. On another forum there was a kid who's dad worked for them and he found a Jaguar alternator that was 140amp or so and was a direct plug-in for his 4Runner. He just had to swap pulleys. I think that was for a 22RE but I'm sure there is a close match to the 3.4 or 2.7 if one had the time to compare alternators from other cars.
     
  16. Feb 14, 2015 at 8:36 PM
    #16
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    I wouldnt let the pulley issue stop you from doing the swap or make it influence you into buying a $300+ alternator. Plug and play is nice but a couple hours of work can save you some serious $$ that could be spent elsewhere. The pulley being wider on the gm alternator has no ill effects, you just move the belt two ribs back when you install it.
    The stock toyota alternator on mine had a smaller pulley than the gm, it always squealed on start up. Since the swap it has not been an issue.
    The big three was more of an issue than making the alternator fit. Bamas price on his big 3 set up is close to what you would have in materials building your own and his comes cut to length with lugs already installed, having been there and done that I would go with his set up.
    I have a couple thousand miles on my gm swap and all is good. Belt hasnt walked on the pulley or any uneven wear.
    I did a write up for a 3rz with the big 3 mod on here not long ago.
    Theres quite a few write ups floating around for cs130 swaps for the 3.4
    The caddy alternator definantly sounds interesting if it is 140 amps and that easy to install.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2015
  17. Feb 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM
    #17
    EricU

    EricU [OP] Well-Known Member

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    While a pre made setup would be nice, working at a stereo shop allows me to get 1/0 cable for dirt cheap and i have all the tools needed for running heavy gauge cables.

    but thats good to know about the 6 rib being a non issue. i guess i know what ill be doing next month on my days off.
     
  18. Feb 15, 2015 at 6:53 PM
    #18
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    As mentioned, the more power-drawing devices you add, the more you load your alternator. Even the TRD off-road Tacoma with the higher output alternator from the factory only puts out 40-60 amps max at idle. Add several lights, and perhaps a subwoofer amp, and your alternator will not put out enough power to run it. Thus the flickering lights.

    The only drawback I see with the caddy alternator is the idle output on it is not really high. 50-60 amps. Not much higher than the factory alternator, considering the amount of work that goes into it. Just my opinion mind you. That is why I like my HO 140A on my 2.7L engine. It puts out 80 amps at idle.
     
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  19. Feb 15, 2015 at 8:42 PM
    #19
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    I bought 2awg in a 25' roll at menards on clearance for $43 then I had another $20 in lugs and heat shrink. There was some trial and error getting the lengths right and I had to trim my under hood fuse block to fit the larger cable. Dont forget a new higher amp fuse as well and fyi its bolted into the block, it doesnt just lift out.


    Interesting, my cs130 came from a 89 vette and is rated at 105 amps. Im curious what it pulls at idle?
    When I did the swap I also did the big 3 and added a red top. Before the swap my wich would kill the engine/battery at idle while winching under load after about 20 seconds, now it takes a good full minute and my only my battery light comes on. If I hold rpm's at 2500 all is good.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015
  20. Feb 15, 2015 at 9:21 PM
    #20
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    This all got me to thinking.. as I mentioned I have a ho alt that puts out 130 at idle, 120 hot. Plus the big 3 from bama toy:) and a yellow top. I've got about~50 amps of lights, not including my 1000 watt amp, and whatever else the truck pulls itself. And I'm experiencing slight flickering at idle. More apparently when it's hot out like summertime here in az.. Hardly any engine load though if any at all...
    So I'm wondering if/when I get a dual battery and wire the lights to this secondary battery, should/will it eliminate any issues? I'm planning on eventually getting a winch too. But that should be fine as it will only be used by itself.

    Shouldn't it then be a case of keeping the batteries charged with the alt? As in the extra accessories will be drawing power directly from the secondary battery and not the alt itself? Or is there some kind of extra component needed to keep it from drawing power from the alt or main battery? Still confused on this part. But I'm hoping that with a second battery, I should have enough power to run everything and then some.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2015

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