What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Anyone make a bolt on hydro kit? Have some mixed feelings on the IFS box...?

 

Hydro Kit? Like hydro bumps??

 

He just bought tons. He's talking about steering

 

ah. Never mind then.

 

Perhaps ask here?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/solid-axle-suspension/205596-solid-axle-swap-bs-thread.html

 

If anyone is bored and wants to vote on which rims I should buy, check this out and help me decide
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/wheels-tires/292983-need-opinion-pro-comp-rims-buy.html

 

trying to track down a wobble at ~45-48mph and 59~mph.

carrier barring possibly?

grease is all over down there, i think i overloaded it and its coming out. could I be short on the drive line I wonder or too much in there still? wobble came aparent after installnig spacers, most previous mods before that are BPV relocate and just a rotate of tires. removed spacers and still wobblee

 

I'm thinking about re gearing, i had been figuring 4.88s but when i was researching i cab across a few people saying with an e locker they are weak, anyone have any opinions?

i planon eventually going to 35s or 33s.

 

Thank you good sir!

 

Usually 45ish is front..do you have a diff drop?

Check the play of the bearing too. Should be a little..but not a ton. Also check the U joint at the rear diff. Thats what mine was. ended up with a 1.5'' BEEFED drop bracket for the CB and axle shims. Have a straight drive shaft all the way now.

the lower the gear ratio you go(higher number) the weaker the rig gets as the there are more teeth thus smaller space for them and blah blah blah.

Really though..4.88s aren't considered that weak. The 8'' ring in the Elocker is considered slightly more weak then the 8.4 diffs 8'' ring but thats due to other reasons.

All in all..4.88s aren't that weak. They work great for 33s and and auto tranny and with 35s and a manual its suppose to be just like stock and 31s.

If your and auto and want 35s i strongly suggest the 5.29 gears which are considered weaker..but the way i see it..if Silas hasn't busted his with 37s..you'll be fine. Most diff injuries are due to incorrect back lash setup.

 

No diff drop is installed. I didnt' think it would be anything to do with my angles etc considering ive been running the lift etc for 1yo+ now without issue. I really am not looking forward to my camping trip with these vibes...

 

left rear seal, carrier barring, universal join , oil change, tires ... Yeah im broke!

 

awesome, thanks.

 

Diff drops lower the front two mounts of the diff. While a small by prodoct is the cvs get lowered a bit..what really happens is it tips the diff forward. This helps straighten out the front drive shaft a bit from what i understand and helps the vibes from the CVs to the drive shaft.

But for now, id check your CB play and the U joint play.

 

Late post but got new tires last weekend. Went cruising.

 

Put my Bilstein 5100's on today, installed a Koyo 2-core radiator, and received / painted my chilkat e-racer kit. E-racer kit going in tomorrow!

 

Lookin good man!

 

Thanks! I have to give some props to Alex at Chilkat, his craftsman ship is next to none on this stuff! It's expensive, but I can totally see why once I got the kit in person. Top notch materials and fabrication. All hand made.

 

Forgive me if I sound dumb, but what the hell is an e-racer kit?

 

Got my Magnaflow in the mail, chopped the old exhaust and tried to clamp the new one one in. I kinda dropped the ball on ID vs OD when ordering, long story short a clamp isn't gonna work. So now I drive 4 hours home this evening with open cats.


I drove it down the highway a little ways last night just to test the drone. This will not be an enjoyable trip haha