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Write-up: 3rd Gen Bilstein 6112/5160 with 3-Leaf AAL for 1.5" lift

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by smitty99, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Apr 15, 2017 at 11:58 AM
    #1
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    16 TRDORDCSB 4x4 A/T (loaded w/ JBL)
    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    Application: Stock 2016 TRD OR DCSB 4x4 but much could apply to 2nd gens as well

    3rd gen specific 6112s are part number #47-234413 springs included

    The 6112s go up to 2" for my truck but I only wanted 1.5" to maintain factory rake.

    HUGE CREDIT TO: @Threerun @GPsevinSixx and countless list of others on these forums who have contributed in the past with write-ups, links to videos and resources that assisted in getting this done on a DIY basis.

    Warning: This is a comprehensive write-up and maybe too wordy for those with mechanical ability. I did this after-the-fact based on requests I was getting so I apologize in advance for not having much in the way of photos. If you catch errors please let me know and I'll revise as needed.


    What I bought & approximate prices:

    Bilstein 6112s (unassembled; no-compressor install method) ~$559 Race Consulting Agency

    Bilstein 5160s- ~$380 from Low Range OffRoad

    Wheelers Progressive 3-Leaf AAL- ~$180 from Wheelers Offroad

    Wheelers Superbumps front & rear + All Pro Ubolt Flip Kit ~$280 from Wheelers Offroad

    Fox Roost Shield (1 for passenger side 5160 protection-optional) - ~$20 from Wheelers

    Energy Suspension 9.11104 - 8 Oz Tub Of Lubricant- ~$15 Amazon

    East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS) Bushing + Axle Seal + Removal Tool- ~$180 from ECGS

    Lifetime Alignment- $180 Firestone Autocare (you’ll likely need multiple alignments!)


    Total: ~$1774

    I sourced my parts from different vendors based on Price and Availability.

    Supplies/Tools

    Safety: Hearing Protection, Eye Protection, Gloves

    Bungee cords or wire coat hangers (to suspend some suspension parts keep CV axle from popping out)

    A couple 3-inch or 4-inch C-Clamps (for AAL) larger ones just get in the way

    Jack stands

    Wheel chocks

    Floor Jack

    4x4 wood blocks to assist floor jack lift height if needed

    Pry bar (I got these from Harbor Freight used 2nd to the largest one the most)

    Nylon Pry tools (found at Harbor Freight --optional but could help with leafs)

    Sharpie (to mark alignment cams)

    Heavy duty zip ties (I used to reattach ebrake bracket to leaf retainer/guide)

    Needle nose pliers

    Vise grips

    Overall I recommend having a wide range of 3/8 and 1/2 drive Metric sockets and Wrenches available--(these ratcheting wrenches were VERY convenient)

    12, 13, 14m, 17mm, and 22mm end wrench

    19mm open wrench

    10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 21 and 22mm sockets (Got a lot of use of this set)

    Torque Wrench 3/8” drive for 50ft/lbs or less

    Torque Wrench 1/2” drive for 50 to 150 ft/lbs

    21mm impact socket works for lug nuts

    Keep a couple of screwdrivers on-hand (phillips and standard)

    Cordless Impact Wrench (helped a ton!)

    Nitrile or Latex Gloves (used for applying Energy Suspension Grease to Leafs)

    Large 24” Pipe Wrench 3” opening (used to remove OEM Leaf Bracket and bump stops)

    4 1/2” Angle Grinder w/ metal cut off wheel (for AAL rivet and removing excess Ubolt length)

    Lube (helps to get shock bushings into mounting boss—I hear not to use WD40 on bushings)

    *Some of these items could be substituted or another option used, this is just what I found useful

    Videos and Write-ups that helped



    *Order of install is your choice. I did rear first to see how much I needed up front.*

    6112 Install Steps

    (Set circlips to desired height. I used #5 and #4 for 1.5” on my 4x4 DCSB. Be careful when doing this, I used a flathead screwdriver to move the circlips but you could gouge the shock body if not careful. Snap ring pliers could be used instead. When assembling, you should have a larger flathead screwdriver handy in case you need to open the ring up. You want to wedge enough between the split on the ring to open it up ( if there isn't enough room to get the plier jaw pins in between), and insert the snap ring pliers to open a bit more to guide it up the detent grooves.

    1. Lift truck onto floor jacks front and rear tires off ground

    2. Remove tires/wheels

    3. Using 17mm end wrench loosen the sway bar end link through the spindle hole and remove the sway bar link from the spindle on both sides of vehicle

    4. Next I Removed the Skid Plate; then loosen the sway bar mount to the frame with a 14mm socket (remove rear bolt, loosen front bolt) this will allow the sway bar to slide out of the slot from the bolt and be moved out of the way

    5. Use Sharpie to mark the location of the alignment cams on the LCA—Can Take photos of the eccentric cam bolts to note position also in case the sharpie rubs off. For my own experience this didn’t end up changing much when we went back to reinstall but YMMV.

    6. Now use a floor jack to support the LCA; start jacking up the LCA until you see the suspension start to compress about 1” or more NOTE: It's more critical that the jack doesn't slip off the LCA, so position it in a place you'll have room to adjust for the LCA's travel arc. The spring is encapsulated by the UCA and the other suspension components and the spring pressure will just push straight down using the shock as a guide pin.
    Image shows where you most likely want the jack to make contact on the LCA.

    LCAjackposition.jpg

    7. Now loosen (don’t remove) the LCA alignment cam bolts (22mm) front and back.

    8. Use 19mm Socket to remove the two bolts that connect the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle –this will enable the LCA to swing down out of the way and gives room to install new assembly.

    9. Use 17mm wrench to remove the top nut, washer and bushing from top plate of shock/spring assembly (may have to hold top of shaft with vise grips)

    10. Use 19mm socket to SLIGHTLY Loosen lower shock mount bolt but do not remove yet or you could be injured; now SLOWLY lower the floor jack to allow the spring to decompress

    11. Move Jack out of the way of the LCA and check that the LCA moves somewhat freely (demonstrating the spring is relieved of tension) now you can use 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the lower shock mount bolt and remove the assembly from the truck There will be some resistance, but you should be able to swing the LCA down so they're 75 degrees or so and out of the way.

    12. Assemble the 6112 with appropriate bushings and washers in accordance with Bilsteins supplied instructions (pretty straight forward). Then Insert the new shock/spring assembly into the top hat; be sure the rubber boot is on top of the spring and that it is aligned correctly.

    13. Reinstall the bolt connecting the shock to the lower control arm do not torque yet but when ready the torque spec is 61ft/lbs – you may need to rotate the coil spring until the center of the shock shaft aligns with the hole in the center of the top plate while ensuring the rubber boot is aligned properly (I just aligned the spring into the boot where the stock spring indent was at).

    14. Now use floor jack under the LCA to begin compressing the spring—the shock absorber shaft will begin to rise through the center hole of the top plate until the shaft stops moving and yet the suspension continues to compress you can reinstall 1. Rubber bushing; 2. Washer; 3. The nut on the shaft (torque spec for shock shaft to top plate is 20 ft/lbs) when tightening the bolt you may need to hold the shaft with a wrench or vise grips to keep the shaft from spinning.

    15. With jack still under the LCA you can now reinstall the steering knuckle to the lower ball joint (Torque spec 118 ft/lbs) .

    16. Set the LCA alignment cams to the marks previously made; tighten but DO NOT TORQUE YET. Reinstall sway bar, sway bar end links, skid plate, etc.

    17. Install wheels (torque lugs to 85 ft/lbs) and lower the truck back to the ground and torque the LCA Cam bolts (torque spec 100 ft/lbs) You may need to drive up onto ramps to access the LCA bolts to have clearance to actually torque them down.



    (**do not re-torque LCA until vehicle is on ground; could pinch and damage bushings**)

    3-Leaf Progressive AAL with All Pro "Ubolt Flip Kit" install:



    Process is the same for both sides. Do it one side at a time and the axle will at least retain position from the opposite side. I did mine this way without loosening opposite side and got my thrust angle better than factory spec when I aligned it. Make sure the shop checks the thrust angle first. There is a tolerance and if it's in range, I wouldn't worry about it. The computerized alignment software knows correct spec'd range. Take note of the bed shift in relation to the axle, or tire edge to bed spacing as many have mentioned in the forum. One side may stick out more than the other. This way, it won't be a complete shock after the install.

    1. Chock front tires. Jack up the rear of the vehicle (I used rear diff)

    2. Place jack stands about 8 inches in front of the leaf hangers on both sides of the frame

    3. Lower the jack slowly allowing the rear end to droop. You can use another set of jack stands to support the rear axle with jack under rear diff (tires just barely above the ground)

    4. Position a floor jack under the rear diff to support the rear axle. You may need to use the floor jack to raise and lower the rear diff at a few points during install. Weight ofthe vehicle should be on the jack stands at the rear frame

    5. Remove wheels/tires

    6. Here I removed the bolts from the brake lines where they attach to the OEM leafs (believe there are two for each side but cannot recall size 10, 12 or 13mm?)

    7.Remove the lower shock bolts (the rear axle may need to be lifted a bit in order to remove tension on shock bolts) and place a couple C-Clamps on both side of leafs then remove U-bolts.

    8. Slowly lower the rear axle away from the springs and then remove the factory centering pin and the factory over-load spring. They will stay together because of the c-clamps

    9. Here I used energy suspension grease. Clean up as much of the flaky or loosened up paint and grit in between each of the leaf springs and slather a ~1/8" thick coating making sure to recognize where the springs actually contact as indicated by wear patterns. Put on about a half inch wide bead with a popsicle stick or your gloved finger down the center. You want to also go around the center pin bore to minimize water intrusion that may cause the center pin to rust out later. Do this for every spring, then coat the center pin a bit (avoid the portion you need to thread the nut back on). Details for this procedure thanks to @GPsevinSixx can be found on Post #18 here. Also lubed between leafs on new leaf pack. You can use the nylon pry tool if needed.

    10. On the new AAL pack remove the center pin bolt (discard the protection sleeve) and pack retainer bolts and protection sleeves. I threw away the sleeves but used the pack retainer bolts. Some chose not to use the pack retainer bolts. Not sure of the pro/cons here but they seem to function fine without the bolts for @GPsevinSixx.

    11. Now if you hold the new 3 leaf pack up against the existing OEM leafs (Longer end of 3 AAL to the rear) you will see they will come in contact with one of the factory spring pack retainers. This is where your angle grinder comes in as you will need to remove this rivet and retainer. Use the angle grinder to grind into the rivet head using care not to damage factory leafs. Then use a pipe wrench or another tool to pry off the retainer clamp. Once ground smooth you may elect to spray paint the exposed metal and let dry (I didn't). Images and details can be found in post #4 here.

    Why you need to grind it off here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheelers-progressive-aal-install-issue-solved.246367/




    12. Add 3 leaf AAL to the bottom of the factory pack by sliding the new center pin provided through the holes in the leafs. If reusing the Overload leaf it will be added to the bottom of the AAL pack; the overload leafs should always be the bottom leaf. I DID NOT use the overload leaf as it will ride too harsh for me, I don't haul a lot of extra weight very often. NOTE: Be sure to install the 3 leaf AAL so that the longer side (distance from center hole out) goes towards the rear.

    13. With the 3 leaf AAL in position and all leafs clamped together, add and tighten the provided center pin nut. NOTE: You may need to cut the center pin down should the pin extend up further than 1/2” beyond the center pin nut. If pin extends up too far it can interfere with the reinstallation of the bumps stops.

    Pic here shows center pin has been cut, U-bolt excess not yet cut
    PreUboltCut.jpg

    8. Jack up the axle and guide the spring center pin head into the hole on the axle perch. Once in position install new SUPERBUMPS that go with the All Pro Kit u-bolts provided and tighten (you will torque to spec [75-80 ft-lbs] once truck is back on the ground). Use a deep socket to install The All Pro Flip Kit nuts –they are 7/8” but a 22mm socket may work too. Tighten down Ubolts counting the turns or keeping track of threads showing, alternating from nut to nut, this helps ensure axle stays in alignment.
    http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/understanding-thrust-angle/

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-leaf-packs-causing-steering-wheel-shift.459248/

    9. Re-install the 3 leaf AAL leaf retainer bolts and tighten.

    10. Use Angle Grinder to cut down excess Ubolt length to about 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch is remaining

    11. E-brake Bracket this is a source of debate but @GPsevinSixx and I both ended up using heavy duty zip ties to reattach the line bracket to the bottom hole of the new AAL guide clamp/retainer. This doesn't allow the cable to kink at all. If you mount with the bracket bolted up higher to the clamp bracket on the AAL, it WILL lift and kink the cable. You DO NOT want these lines to kink.

    ebrake.jpg

    May want to flip bracket like the above photo however.
    20170329_162442.jpg



    12.Install rear shocks (5160s).

    ATTENTION: RETORQUE ALL NUTS, BOLTS AND LUGS AFTER 100 MILES AND PERIODICALLY THEREAFTER.

    5160 Install Notes

    These come with somewhat decent install instructions and shocks are fairly straight forward but a couple of comments on this. You'll need to lower the Spare tire a ways so you can get access to install the reservoir mounting brackets.

    1. The lower mount can be a bitch to get in, definitely helps to LUBE the bushing up and use a pry bar to guide the lower mount into the boss angled from the bottom up as opposed to inserting from a top down angle of approach. Have either a large punch (that fits somewhat loosely in the bore) or the bolt ready. The punch is easier as the bolt requires an exact lineup as bolt thread diameter is the same as the hole diameter. Once the punch is in location, you can wiggle it around and insert the bolt from the opposite side. Just make sure it's the same as factory orientation.
    MountingRearShock.jpg

    2. The top nut is a nylock nut and I just tightened it down as much as I could holding the shock body with my other hand, I did not see any torque spec for this and it is near impossible to hold the shock any other way as there is no place on the upper stem to hold it (if you use pliers to hold it you will damage the threads voiding the warranty!)

    3. Do not place a shock boot over the 5160s, I emailed bilstein about this and they said it WILL void the warranty as the boot will trap moisture and debris. Instead Wheelers sells a plastic Roost Shield made by Fox that can be easily modified (I used a dremel grinder) to secure to the bottom of the 5160. You only need one for the passenger side if you want to do this and wheelers will sell them individually. Bilstein tech did say the 5160 is triple chrome plated, sealed yadda yadda designed to protect the shock without use of a boot but I opted for the Roost shield as I have heard others use it. To install the Roost shield I bolted the shock in first and then finessed it on, it was a bit of a pain.

    4. Retorque all wheel lugs to ~85ft/lbs

    RoostShieldWarning.jpg

    Pic shows Fox Roost shield installed
    RoostShield.jpg


    Superbumps install notes:

    -Used a big pipe wrench to unscrew the OEM bump stops or some fairly large channel locks could work too.

    -You’ll want to install these while you have the suspension apart for obvious reasons and ease of access.

    -On the fronts I had to cut down the hex key (allen wrench) included with these as it was too long to access into the front bump stops for tightening down… when you get to this point the problem will be obvious.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017
  2. Apr 15, 2017 at 11:58 AM
    #2
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    Why? I do a lot of hunting and camping but not a lot of extreme “off road” stuff. It is not uncommon for me in one weekend to traverse hundreds of miles of unmaintained forest and ranch roads as well as Indian rez back country that can get really nasty so I wanted something that would further improve handling and ride quality without detracting from on-road ride quality and performance. I wanted to get something that wouldn’t break the bank ($2k or less) but would enhance performance. I didn’t want to cheap out to sacrifice ride quality for the “visual appeal” many seek with a lift. I had received some good feedback from others running the Bilstein 6112/5160 with progressive 3-leaf AAL here (believe these particular AALs are all made by Deaver and distributed by various Vendors such as Wheelers, Icon, Headstrong, etc). You’re probably going to need multiple alignments over the life of your vehicle. A single alignment can run ~$80 BUT you can buy a lifetime Alignment from Firestone like I did for $180 which I highly recommend. Did not need aftermarket UCAs for stock tires/wheels and 1.5” lift. General rule of thumb if you believe feedback on the forum is that UCAs are necessary when going more than 2” of lift.

    Assumptions and Misc: This is a DIY driveway install method using a 3-ton floor jack and heavy duty jack stands. Truck is all stock going into this mod. I do not have future plans of towing regularly or hauling a lot of aftermarket stuff (heavy bumpers, RTT, toppers, etc) If you do plan to add a lot of stuff to your truck (300lbs+ weight) then you may want to research further options. Beyond the forum for resources there are a lot of great vendors out there who are responsive and knowledgeable about our trucks (Dan at Wheelers, Marie at Headstrong, among others). A common question on the rear leafs is whether to remove or leave the Overload Leaf in. I left mine out as the AAL instructions recommend. General feedback is that the truck will ride like crap with factory Overload left in, very stiff and harsh but if you’re carrying more weight or towing regularly it might be advised to leave the overload in or go for a complete leaf pack replacement.

    Background on my truck issues: I’ve had a TON of issues with my 2016 and I have been waiting for Toyota to get back to me on the rear end howl issue. I’ve had several meetings with the regional FTS over the past year to investigate and address this issue. Supposedly they are well-aware of it and plan to issue a TSB or Field Fix at some point. Over this time period and many dealer trips, I’ve always been polite and cordial with my service team and actually got to a point where I’m buds with the Service Manager. My service manager agreed that keeping the lift under 2” would be playing it safe as far as MOST warranty issues would be concerned. The fact that my rear differential issues are well-documented he did not see any issues with a slight lift.




    One other thing to seriously consider: replacing the driver’s side CV Axle Needle Bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply 8” clamshell bushing while you are installing the lift since you will have the driver’s side suspension unbuttoned. This is a well-known issue spanning all generations of Tacoma that the OEM needle bearing can and will fail at some point with ANY amount of lift. Mine failed IMMEDIATELY after lifting and I started getting the noise/vibes at surface street speeds. So to answer the commonly asked question: “If I only lift 1.5” will I need this?” -- ANY amount of lift can cause the issue. The needle bearing has even been known to fail on STOCK non-Lifted trucks. The discussion on this and how to address it can be found in other threads here. You may decide to wait to install it or have a shop install later, and that is OK because some people do not experience needle bearing failure for thousands of miles. Once it does fail, however you’ll probably want to address it within a few thousand miles because it can cause premature wear on your CV Axle and keep in mind you’ll have to take apart the front driver’s side suspension to pull the axle, so maybe it is best to get it done while installing the lift. Your call. Labor to install can range from 2 to 3 hours, so build that into the costs if you pay a shop to do it. A lot of info out there on the ECGS bushing install if you search but you can start here with post #3418: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-adventures.362772/page-171#post-14019469

    How much does it cost to do: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ith-lift-how-many.486735/page-2#post-14937197
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2017
  3. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:04 PM
    #3
    GPsevinSixx

    GPsevinSixx Well-Known Member

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    6112/5160AALfnCNTSTRyokG015
    Thank you Smitty!
    Mods, can Smitty get a sticky?
     
  4. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #4
    brich999

    brich999 Well-Known Member

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    all tore up already
    Good write up. I also did a carrier bearing shim from ome. Had a funny rumble accelerating from 25-35ish without it. But i used hs aal and i think im a hair higher in back. Also noticed i think from flexing my sway bar was coming in contact with the 6112. Not hard but enough to chip up the lable so i did the relocate brackets which push it a hair further away from the shocks. Luckily both these are very easy to add if you notice an issue
     
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  5. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:11 PM
    #5
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    How it sits today. Sorry didn't do a lot of Before/After shots. Maybe someone can add some more.

    Before:
    20151203_132518.jpg
    20151203_104616.jpg



    After:
    20170326_184230.jpg 20170406_140756.jpg 20170405_121458.jpg 20170405_121519.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2017
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  6. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #6
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Shouldn't leave ball and hitch in.
    If some one hits you it could bend the frame
     
  7. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #7
    YDCtaco

    YDCtaco Go Deacs!

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    of all people to modify their third gen....
     
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  8. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:15 PM
    #8
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    Yea don't care.
     
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  9. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:16 PM
    #9
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    LOL
    Lame bro
     
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  10. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #10
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    Do you have something useful to add? If not :luvya:
     
  11. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:25 PM
    #11
    Sandtaco

    Sandtaco Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up.

    I have same setup but went on 5th notch and add a leaf.

    Got about 2.5 after it settled.

    I also removed swaybar.
     
  12. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:37 PM
    #12
    epluribusunom

    epluribusunom Well-Known Member

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    I hate to say it but... good write up Smitty. I was looking into doing a 1.5" lift exactly like this. Now I have a nice little guide to look through as far as finding parts and install. Thanks
     
  13. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:39 PM
    #13
    GPsevinSixx

    GPsevinSixx Well-Known Member

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    Smitty99 redemption thread? Yeah, I wish something like this was around when I did mine. Thanks again smitty.
     
  14. Apr 15, 2017 at 12:39 PM
    #14
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    You're welcome. Hope it helps. This is a popular combo for lifting. Keeping at 2" or less should avoid some headaches as well as maintaining or improving superior ride characteristics.
     
  15. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:20 PM
    #15
    Woodrow F Call

    Woodrow F Call Kindling crackles and the smoke curls up...

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    Excellent write-up Smitty.

    Thinking about this or with Dakars. Going to add a shell and keep a little weight in the bed.
     
  16. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:28 PM
    #16
    SC4333

    SC4333 Well-Known Member

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    Excellent write up. I've been leaning on the idea of Bilstein 6112's up front with a Dakar replacement pack in the rear. I'm only looking for 1.5 - 2" of total lift, and will be using the truck for camping with a bed rack and tent + cargo. The bed with have around 375-475lbs of weight while camping and ~200lbs at all other times (rack + tent). I figured the Dakar will be better suited for this than the AAL.

    I am glad you added the footnote in regards to the CV needle bearing failure. I am about to do a mild lift and would rather get it out of the way when I install the lift. I've bought everything from complete axle assemblies to odds and ends from ECGS in the past and must say, they are a great group of guys with top notch customer service.

    I realize you just installed the new suspension, although i'd be interested to hear your thoughts on ride quality in regards to the 6112's
     
  17. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:32 PM
    #17
    smitty99

    smitty99 [OP] I also bought a 4Runner

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    6112s/5160s & 3-leaf AAL;ubolt flip kit;Superbumps
    6112s ride great offroad and on road. Slightly firmer ride on road not as floaty/boaty as TRD OR but not harsh. It will really soak up the bumps off road now. Feels much more in control and planted. Also corners better probably due to slightly firmer spring. Very slight difference in on road ride but much more noticeable off road. Love it. Highly recommend!

    Here is another guys feedback on 6112s who has run 5100s as well... he said he would not recommend 5100s to anyone again based on how much better the 6112s perform.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bilstein-6112.421995/page-21#post-14274086
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2017
  18. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #18
    SC4333

    SC4333 Well-Known Member

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    Thats good to hear! I appreciate the feedback.
     
    smitty99 [OP] likes this.
  19. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:40 PM
    #19
    TeecoTaco

    TeecoTaco Liberty Biberty

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    Modified the level of gas in the tank
    Said it once, ill say it again...feel free to use in these situations


    Good write up!
     
  20. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:40 PM
    #20
    TXpro4X4

    TXpro4X4 Fuck Cancer!

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    Toy Stuff..... Front emblem led lighting. Under front bumper led rock lighting. Center counsel c.b mod with under the hood p.a Anytime foglight mod R.G.B tape light for inside toekick lighting. Front and back. CJumpers 700 lumens LED reverse lights. Front weathertech floor mats. De-Baged except TOY on tailgate. FJ style 6 speed shifter knob. Rubber tacoma bed mat. Trd exhaust. Trd 16in beadlocker style wheels Electrical a/c 115volt plug/usb mod next to passenger knee Fox 2.5 coilovers Icon 2.0's in the rear Rear locker any-time mod Abs kill switch mod
    Was going to go this route but not enough $ went 5100's x4
    Ride comparison was night and day on and off road.
    Would like to run 6112 up front.
    Maybe 1 day
     
    nibrwr and smitty99 [OP] like this.

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