Tapping power for USB ports in blank next to fog light switch - Finished.

Hi I purchased a USB connector that allegedly fits where I have 2 blanks right now (Locker/Inverter). Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know if there is power run to the connectors for the Locker/Inverter that are pre-wired behind the blanks? I bought an add a fuse so I can go that route but wasn't sure if there was a better way.

The USB connector looks like it is wired separately so one could be switched and one could be always on.


Thanks.

 

I would install it using an Add a Fuse device.

 

Yup.

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade-Add-A-Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0

And plug into ACC circuit under the steering wheel. That's what I did.

 

Did you happen to take a picture of the circuit?

 

the open one on the top row of the fuse panel I believe??

 

I am also wanting to do this mod but the ACC circuit requires the ignition to be on for power. Anyone know of a circuit that I can tap into to allow the plugs to operate with the ignition off??

Gottafly

 

I have mine plugged into the ACC circuit. works only with ignition on. If you plug into the PWR Outlet slot next to it, it will be constant on.

 

Thanks

 

Where did you get the USB port at??

 

http://www.amazon.com/Mictuning-Toy...id=1452255879&sr=8-3&keywords=tacoma+usb+port

The add a fuse I used is just a mini and worked but after pulling out the fuse from the fuse box I saw that we have mini low-profile fuses. Not sure if it makes a difference or not but you can get the add a fuse in mini low-profile.

Qiorange 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5

http://www.amazon.com/Qiorange--cir...TF8&qid=1452255968&sr=8-6&keywords=add+a+fuse

I got the dual USB charger 1.2 & 2.1A, I just looked and they have one that is just 2.1A for the same price, I think I would have ordered that one if I checked.

I opened up the case and snipped out the blue LEDs since I wanted it to kind of match. I also used 400 grit wet sand sand paper and got rid of the USB logos and made it look like more of a matte finish rather than shiny so it would blend in.

I plan on trying to do this over the weekend time permitting. I also ordered a homelink mirror from Bob and a valentine one detector and plan to mount that with the blend mount.

I did the A pillar handle lower bolt RAM mount install last weekend, at first I was a little leery about the X grip but after the install I am very happy with the function and versatility, I can fit my iPhone in there or a GPS unit since some places I go have no cell service and I am not sure if I need cell service for GPS to work. Anyway, I liked the idea of hard wiring in a cord for charging but found this USB adapter and though it was almost accomplishing the same thing but more versatile.

I will take a few pics when I do it and report back if the USB adapter fits ok. I saw one on here but can't find the link right now.

Thanks for the pics of the Add a Fuse.

 

AFAIK the only "constant" on circuit on the interior fuse box is the 20A door lock. Power outlets are not constant hot

 

U may be right. But I swear I accidentally plugged it into the power outlet 15A accidentally and it was hot. Lol.

 

I got the USB ports installed and they seemed to work. Thanks for the help.

 

If you plugged into an always on power source be careful with what you leave in the truck and how long. Easy to drain the battery that way.

 

Did you have to remove any panels to install the switch and wiring into the upper row of switches?

 

I decided to use the Accessory circuit for this reason. Thanks.

I tried to get them out from behind without removing anything and failed, I also tried to work them out form the front but was afraid I would ruin something so I ended up taking the lower panel off (actually pulled it out from the clips and let it hang lower and left all of the other wires attached) and this gave me enough room to get my finger in the back to get it out. The center blank was just a blank and the one to the right had the inverter wiring going to the back of the blank. It was pretty easy to drop down the panel, took a few minutes, I spent more time trying to figure out how to do it without removing the panel than the time it took to remove the panel.

 

I wired my tailgate lock to the PWR OUTLET and on my 2014 it is 12v hot, no key required.

 

Thanks. So you were able to just pull the lower panel out from the clips. Did you pull the panel out or pulled it down. I thought you had to take out the kick panel to get to the lower panel. This is good to know.

 

Just screw a screw into the blank and pull the blank will pop right out, no need to remove panel

 

You are correct, you have to take out the kick panel, the plastic pedal foot rest thing, and the plastic piece net to the driver door on the floor. It was pretty easy though. I didn't disconnect any wiring from the lower panel and jest let it hang down - sorry I didn't do the best job explaining.

I followed these instructions.

http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=941

These other links also talk about other ways to do it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2014-remove-switch-from-dash.321635/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-switch-blanks-left-of-steering-wheel.132270/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/blank-switch-removal.283658/