Just Bought A 05' PreRunner SR5 - First Car - Tips ...

You don't have a front differential or transfer case unless it's a 4x4.
Now on that grinding it doesn't when you shift into reverse only when you start letting the clutch out? Also does it continue to grind when moving in reverse?
A video will kinda help, make sure the volume is up so to hear the actually grinding.
Other things that come to mind are throwout bearing or pilot bushing. Both easy to fix but just a PITA to do.

Try doing this park and shut off engine, put it in reverse. Then start truck, with clutch in and then back up, does it grind then? Does it grind in any of the forward gears?

 

Here are some videos.
So it turns out that it grinds when I REVERSE and START TO TURN THE WHEEL.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD4l6D-crXk

Steering stops?

Driving. Everything sound good? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCvoSjAwq_Q
If I get to 65-75 on the freeway I'll be around 2.3-2.5krpm.

I mostly always shift at 2k rpm, just for trying to save more gas.
Is there a guide/tools list out there for removing my Revtek kit? Will I need to get an alignment afterwards?

 

Any suggestions/ideas?

 

+1 on the stock-size 245/75-16 tires for the 4-cylinder. All other things being equal, you will always see better fuel economy and more torque to the ground with smaller tires. Brake performance and on-road handling will also improve.

Is the transmission staying in reverse? In the video, it looks like you touch the shifter just before the grinding noise. Turning the front wheels to either extreme while parked can cause the rear wheels to move a bit if the parking brake is not set, which would change the load on the transmission gears. If it is not staying in reverse with no assistance, you have a problem that needs to be fixed before it gets worse.

If the gears are grinding as you shift into reverse while idling, I would suspect a clutch (throwout bearing and/or pilot bearing) problem.

EDIT. Shifting at 2000 RPM is probably doing more harm than good. Your engine produces peak torque at 3800 RPM with a redline of 5500. Don't be afraid to rev it up to 4000 or so when you need power, especially with those big tires. Fuel economy will not suffer.

Mike

 

My hand was just there, but I did not move anything. It stays in reverse.
The only issue right now is that "grinding sound" occurs once I begin to turn the wheel in reverse.

Is there a rough estimate as to how much I'll gain from downsizing my tires?

 

Running the 245/75-16 tires should at least provide the EPA estimate fuel economy. My son (Toyota dealer employee) razzes me because I nearly always beat the EPA numbers by a fair margin (on pavement) so it is possible to do. Cue the "drive like a granny" comments...

IMHO, the largest obstacle to running stock-size tires, for you, is that they will probably look disproportionately small with your suspension lift. Maybe you can borrow a set from somebody to try for an hour to see and feel the difference.

If it were my truck, I would remove the lift components and return it to the stock (already lifted compared to standard 2WD) height. Sell the lift parts and oversized tires, and put the money toward a new set of tires. I feel like I'm going against the grain here, as TW seems to be a hotbed of lifts and other modifications, but I feel safe in saying (with flame suit at the ready) that the vast majority of people who think they need a suspension lift for other than purely cosmetic reasons really just need to learn how to drive better. There are definitely good non-cosmetic reasons to lift, but I don't believe that a single one of them are remotely relevant in a 2WD truck that is driven on pavement.

Mike

 

Oh, yeah. The grinding.

Transmissions are ridiculously expensive things, and simply removing one from the truck is a major undertaking which is very expensive if you have pay a mechanic. Repairing manual transmission problems is even more expensive. Checking the gear oil level is simple, and so is changing it.

Without directly observing the grinding sound, I suggest you consider that the noise may not actually be coming from within the transmission. I would find a helper and do the same test while looking and listening from the outside. Open the hood, lay on the ground next to the truck, etc., and see if you can pinpoint the source of the sound. Don't get run over by the truck. With the steering at full lock, the power steering system is under a lot of stress and can make weird noises. None should be loud. Whining noises are common, but not grinding.

Mike

 

1. So is a diff/tranny fluid change now highly recommended? Or will it just take some unnecessary money out of my wallet?

2. Get a friend to pinpoint the source of the grinding in reverse.

3. Take out spacers/blocks and go to stock wheels seems to be a highly recommended thing in this thread so far.
If I take out the spacer/blocks now and keep the wheels I have now, will there be any rub issues? Keep these until I can get them sold/when I need new ones.

4. Check air filter/swap for AFE Pro Dry.
5. Take out charcoal filter

 

That is not transmission grind, I noticed when the noise happened your cab shook, I suspect wheel rub when making hard turn. Check inside the fenderwell and see where it's been hitting. Or turn wheel hard, jack up front on either side, or both and put on jack stands and spin tires to see if it rubs. Don't forget to jack it up safely.

 

Yeah, I am looking for better MPG as I am a high school student and gas does add up. That 100mile trip I took was roughly 17-19.9MPG. Looks like EPA is combined 20mpg.

Car is parked right now.







Not sure if this is turned all the way, but it's parked right now.

 

Extension cord to the street!

Alrighty, I will update after I drive out after heating and pushing back.

Tomorrow looking to remove the secondary charcoal filter and check the air filter. Even if it's clean, still replace it with an AFE Dry?

 

You might want to check the inner wheel and see if it's rubbing on the inside, doesn't look like it's hitting the fender. You don't have much clearance though. Just a thought does it have any spacers?

 

Yeah.
It has a Revtek 3" lift. Mentioned earlier in the thread if you weren't here yet.

 

Wait.... How did you get a prerunner with a manual transmission?

 

I wasn't talking about the lift spacers. And yes I did read that. I'm talking about wheel spacers. If you don't have them they may fix your problem of rubbing.

These:

 

Ah okay.
Well I have to make sure that tire rubbing is the cause first.

I will check if there are any tomorrow.
Thanks!

 

What do you hope to gain with the AFE filter? The stock Toyota filter flows way more air than your engine can use. If you're trying to save money, this is not the way.

BTW, that "deckplate" mod that is so popular on the 1st generation Tacomas and earlier trucks does zero to improve performance. It makes noise, not power. I had one on a 1990 V6 4x4 (along with the useless K&N filter) and it took me quite a while to find undamaged stock replacement parts to fix it.

Mike

 

Well if my stock one is dirty then I'll just buy an AFE one since I found one for $15.

Will removal of the charcoal filter do anything?
Wasn't planning on doing anything that's not highly recommended by the majority [i.e deckplate]

 

Since you live in Cali, you won't pass emissions without it.
There are threads that argue the point pro & con for better performance. I've left mine in but I also don't have to pass any emission test. Some take it out and then put it back in for the test. From what I gather it absorbs the residual gases after you shut the engine off instead of dumping it into the atmosphere.

 

So basically. Check for tire rub and replace air filter if dirty.
Otherwise there's not much I should/can do to increase MPG and/or power.

How many more are agreeing with lift removal and stock tires?