'05 Auto Transmission issues unresolved with "LubeGard"

When you say you "changed the transmission fluid" yourself. How many quarts did you use? If it was less than 11qts you havnt changed all the trans fluid.

I would personally drain and drop the pan, clean the magnets, replace the filter screen, then go through the procedure of filling back up the pan with ~ 4qts, then proceed to push another 6 in batches of 2 qts out the ATF cooler lines. Add in lube guard drive around the block to cycle through the gears, let it cool off completly, add in 1 more quart of ATF then do the temp check level check.

 

In case this is needed.

 

@Ricardo13x That is outdated info. The ATF temp range was changed from 115-130F to 97-115F sometime after 2007. New temp range is in my Haynes manual and is covered on this thread, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/page-106

 

Still the same process if you’re doing the pin in the connector process? Or should I monitor with a scanner for proper accuracy?

 

This thread is from May 2020 and OP hasn’t been back since…

 

I can't help you there as I've never used the pin-wire procedure. I used to use an IR gun and I know have an UltraGauge to monitor AT temps. But the IR gun is accurate enough. I've compared both and my IR gun is within 3 degrees of my UltraGauge readings. A member here had originally posted his IR gun temp readings to his TechStream software and had similar results.

 

Cool

 

Still a good thread .
Lets other members know that there are many contributing factors that can cause Tacoma,s to shudder .
90% of the shudder complaints at Tacoma World are actually engine related issues or bad universal joints .
Lubeguard has its place and works very well if diagnosed correctly and used correctly .
Take the time to diagnose properly .
Dont expect good results from Lubeguard if you simply add the 10 ounce bottle to your old burnt transmission fluid . It doesnt work that way
I see at least 10 mistakes made by the OP in his posts
I beleive this was a misdiagnosis by the OP

 

Have you tried Maxlife ATF? You can also try lube gard Red, not shutter fix. I use Amsoil Blue cap SS ATF in my 15. I did remove all the WS with Maxlife via line removal at 30K. 120K and it shifts great.

 

Welcome back Gearcruncher. There are a handful of "experts" on here, you included, that make this forum special. I hate to try to mention them all for fear of forgetting someone. The time you take to help out total strangers is so appreciated.

 

Bet the u-joints are shot. Happened to me.

 

Would you mind mentioning a few of them? In the interest of TW science, of course.

 

Sure Lets have a look

In his first post ,

1 - he didnt scan his computer controlled transmission for codes

2- he didnt scan his computer controlled engine for codes

3-he added lubeguard to dirty transmission fluid that had 300k on it. You are going in to fix a shuddering converter clutch .Replacing all the fluid which restores the friction modifiers and then adding lubegaurd is your best chance for success.
He didnt take the pan off , he just removed the bolt and drained it . " NOT GOOD "

4 - He didnt perform a brake tap test. This is the first test a transmission shop would be performing . Super easy on a 5 minute road test . No fancy scanners or tools required , just the use of the gas pedal and the brake pedal

5 - He didnt take the transmission pan off for a contamination inspection . Trans could have been full of steel. The new fluid with super detergents that he did add lifts the steel particles off the transmission pan and forces that steel through your aluminum valve body . " NOT GOOD "

He could have removed ,cleaned , and adjusted his SLU solenoid to apply more force on the lock up clutch but instead, he forced dirty transmission fluid through the solenoid . They are well known for plugging up as well as bore wear from not changing the transmission fluid on a regular basis

6 - He didnt replace the transmission filter. Any metal or aluminum particles that are held by the filter get dislodged when addidng fresh transmission fluid with super detergents . Those particles are then forced through your transmission pump and valve body working like fresh sand paper on your all aluminum pump and valve body . " NOT GOOD "

7- He didnt run the truck by a transmission shop for a " free " road test . Road tests are " free "at a transmission shop . Why not take advantage of a free opinion . You drive away at the end of the road test with answers from a technician who knows what he is talking about .Those guys test drive this stuff every day

8- He had 300k on his engine . He didnt check his vvt timing on a lab scope . On a high mileage 4 liter engine , this is the very first thing I would be checking . When the overhead cam gears and chains get some play ,your engine chuggs .When your torque converter clutch locks directly to the engine , you feel this vibration in the drivers seat and think its a bad converter . A code scanner seldom catches this . Read more about this here
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cam-gears-for-v6-add-power-and-mpg.618266/

9 - He didnt check his universal joints or tires
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-diagnostics-for-all-tacomas-write-up.520607/

10 - he listened to someone on Tacoma World who obviously didnt know how to use lubegaurd properly .

 

Thanks! I'm fighting with the stiff steering currently and I suspect the trans may be slipping as well.