Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

I had about 10 oz or so of Valvoline full synthetic left from the last time I changed mine several years ago. I used it today when I changed it. Looked no different than the new stuff I had when I pumped it into the diff.

 

How did you find the torque specs for the front diff and trans case? I'm also changing the rear diff and transmission oil and would like to find those torque specs as well. Thanks.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

I looked through here and did not find any torque specs for the drain and fill plug of the Trans and rear diff.I checked several times. Maybe I overlooked it?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/page-9#post-11993368

 

Do they come with syntheic

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 from factory? I'm at 48,000km and I'm about to change out all 3 to royal purple.

 

I'm pretty sure that is the intended weight gear oil for the tacoma but I would check in the owners manual. After searching through the forums I noticed many guys were using redline mt90 and were very happy with it. You may want to consider that over royal purple.

 

According to pg 458 of my Owner's Manual, "Your Toyota vehicle is filled with 'Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil' at the factory." The specification listed for Differentials is "LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent," while the one listed on pg 460 for Transmissions is "Gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90."

FWIW, I run Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 in the Transmission, Transfer Case, and both Differentials.

 

Do you guys think it would be a bad idea to change rear and front diff at 176000 never done anything either than oil and normal stuff. Truck doesn't make any noise or anything while driving just figured I ran through a lot of creeks in the past few months might want to change it out saying how it probably never has been changed.

 

On the contrary. Changing it would be a GOOD idea, especially if you've run through deep water, assuming it's done correctly and with the right replacement gear lube.

 

Well didn't figure it would be bad but wasn't sure because I know sometimes changing stuff if it hasn't been is a bad idea and never had to change diff oil at all never had a vehicle long enough to have to do it lol

 

Just changed my front and rear diff and transfer case fluids. 2015 4x4 Tacoma 27,500 miles. I used a 15/16 6 pt socket instead of the 24 mm. Fit the bolts tighter. Wish I would have used a pump. I bought a hose that attached to the top of the Mobil 1 bottles and just squeezed the oil in. Spilled it a couple times, but will be better prepared for the next time. Thanks to all for your comments. It is really an easy job, if you can get the bolts loose!

 

Any idea how many lbs to torque the transfer case plugs?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/page-10#post-12344050

 

Did mine the other day with 30,500 miles. Front and rear diff's were dirty/grey. Transfer case was clean as can be. Honestly, I would recommend holding off on doing the T-case until maybe 60k miles unless you're doing A LOT of offroading.

 

I thought I remember reading that certain year 2nd gens needed an additive if you have an LSD even if the fluid says for LSD.

 

Thanks for the write-up. Just did both diffs, transfer case and engine oil. PB Blaster is your friend. I used an impact wrench and it took care of every plug handily, with the exception of the front diff drain plug, which was stubborn. I alternated the impact wrench and the breaker bar, with liberal amounts of PB Blaster, and then it finally uncorked. Other that that one taking longer, they all came off with little effort. If you don't own an impact wrench, its time for you to go buy a cordless set with the heavy duty llithium ion batteries. My set came with a drill, an impact wrench, two batteries, a rapid charger and a shop radio for about $150.00. I use both tools all the time all over the house, in my hangar, built my fence with them. Its a great thing to have.

1. A 6-point 24mm socket on an impact wrench is the way to go, with a breaker bar as your standby.
2. I tried both a pump and an oil suction gun. The suction gun made a lot of mess, lost a lot of fluid, and was a general PITA. It is going in the trash after pumping less than one quart. Although the hand pump takes more strokes, it was faster, it was consistently pushing the fluid and made almost no mess. It also got more out of the container than the suction gun did.
3. I have a TRD Sport, so I think I have a different skid plate than the TRD Off Road, and I did not have to remove my skid plate, nor did I have to remove my spare tore for the rear diff.

Overall it was very easy. The longest part was running errands, and rounding up supplies. Actual work time was only an hour or so. I did forget that I bought both crush washers and non-crush washers, so I have no idea which ones I used where. You may need to separate the old brass washer from the front diff drain hole with a screwdriver, as mine fused slightly to the diff. If the washer doesn't come off with the plug, you will probably find it stuck there at the hole.

Sometimes I worked on a creeper and sometimes used jackstands with no creeper. I have my own safety rule. If I am on a creeper and there are parts of the truck I cannot fit under, I use either the jackstands or the creeper, but not both. If I have to work where there is not enough room for me and the creeper (where I would get crushed if the truck slid off the stands) I use the jackstands with no creeper. I just lay on my back. That way if it does fall I am still alive. Its just an insurance bet. It must be the pilot in me that thinks ahead about these things.

 

just sayin.... but, I would have cleaned that off a lot better before opening it. running water and a brush should knock all that mud off.

 

I don't have time to dig through 43 pages. I am planning to tackle this job this weekend and service the pumkin as well. Would Lucas 75W90 be a good choice for everything. I have an offroad W/ locker. I am at 107K and bought it with 81K last year. I do not know if any of them have ever been changed.

 

the manual transmission specs a different grade (GL-4, I used Redline MT90) than the differentials (75W90 GL-5, I used LiquidMoly). I believe the transfer case takes the same as the manual tranny. of course, an automatic transmission uses ATF not gear oil.