How to: drop, clean, and reinstall the 2nd Gen transmission pan and filter

Like you i am a firm believer in magnefines and have one on ATF cooler line and one in PS return line. The super fine metalic sludge you can find on the magnet when dissected is better to have on the magnet than circulating around in the fluid. This stuff is so fine you cant feel any abrasiveness at all, its more like feeling silver paint. The advent of electronically controlled solenoid valves has made the problem worse because a solenoid is nothing more than an electromagnet that attracts these ferrous contaminants. And the 40 micron nominal paper filter is way better than the screen in the pan..

A good article on transmission and PS filtration

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/129-1002-automatic-transmission-and-power-steering-filters/




I changed the first one i used in the trans line relatively quickly since i figured it would have a lot to catch. After that i have also gone to the 30K interval. Have never dropped the pan and while working was doing a once a year 3+ qt drain and fill. Fluid was always bright cherry red and for the $24 it costs cheap insurance. Being retired and putting on less than 3000 miles a year now i will stretch that out....

 

Fast forward a couple of years and it's now $42. This like the price of everything else has gone through the roof over the last 2 years.
I'd comment further but since politics are expressly forbidden, I won't...

 

Yep

 

Skip the pan drop and filter change and throw in a magnefine filter. The transmission filter is actually more of a screen than a filter and is meant to catch boulders (> 100 micron which is a huge particle for a transmission). It has to be this way due to the large flow requirements.

The magnefine has a 40 micron paper filter and will catch any ferrous (iron/steel) particles > 5 micron)



https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/129-1002-automatic-transmission-and-power-steering-filters/

 

Where did you find the torque values for the filter and the 10mm pan nuts? I didn't see the values anywhere in the link you referenced for torque specs??

 

In the first post in the torque spec guide, scroll down to Transmission.

Under the various transmission model numbers there are values for the following in each model’s torque tables:

Oil strainer x valve body
Oil pan x transmission case

That’s them.

 

Seeing how much the OEM screen (wont call it a filter) cost in canada !! $231 !! i cant see a reason not to use something like the WIX 58136 an less than 1/2 the cost and it comes wit the gasket...

 

Agreed, lots of people have reported going that route for the same reason.

 

What is the consenus in regards to the pan gasket? Have seen rubber and cork rubber versions. What is the original made of?

And the fel pro gasket that look correct show its for a Aisin 70-50LF (20 holes)

https://www.drivparts.com/part-details.html?brand_code=BCWV&part_number=TOS 18736&part_name=Transmission Oil Pan Gasket

And the one that listed for the A750E, A750F doesn't look correct and only has 19 holes

https://www.drivparts.com/part-details.html?brand_code=BCWV&part_number=TOS 18740&part_name=Transmission Oil Pan Gasket

 

I just bought the OEM part. It’s rubber.

 

The 21 lb-ft torque spec is most likely for dry threads. (almost all torque specs you can find for anything are for dry threads)

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

But anyone who has done this procedure knows those threads will be sopping wet so it's necessary to reduce the spec accordingly. There's debate on how much you reduce the dry torque spec though (10%? 20%?), but 15 lb-ft is a conservative enough value that has been tested by the user base here.

 

I appreciate the dive into the details, but everything you wrote in your post is pure speculation. Maybe Toyota has a totally separate set of factory torque values for things like plugs that will be installed at the factory dry but will almost never again be torqued while dry during service evolutions. Maybe the values in the service manual all assume wet for these. I don’t know.

If you look at the original post where this torque value is listed with a note and references to observations from other users, they believe that the value in the torque spec guide is specifically in error (meaning there was an FSM error), not that it’s a dry value. If that were the case ALL plug values (oil pan, transfer case, diffs) are erroneous, but that wasn’t the observation in those posts. That’s why I made the note in the OP so individual users can read and decide for themselves. I’m all about having data to back up torque values, otherwise what’s the point, just torque to “feel”.

 

Not sure if anyone else has tried them for Canadian parts but

https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/

seems to have decent prices.

Went looking for the WIX 58136 filter kit . ON Amazon.ca it was $100. On this site it was $48

 

Two places you can get magnetic drain plugs if you are looking for them

https://drainplugmagnets.com/cars/toyota-lexus/
https://goldplug.com/

Note. The AP24 24mm-1.5 Thread drain plug from gold plug WILL NOT work in the front differential. The hex head is so large you cant actually get a socket on it since its to close to the area around the transfer case drain plug hole.




All the rest of their drain plugs work fine.

If you want a front diff drain plug the one from drainplugmagnets has a smaller hex head like the stock lexus version and does fit.

 

Since the threaded holes are not blind and go thru the top of the transmission pan flange it might be possible for salt spray to make it onto the threads from the top down.

Probably make no difference but would it be better to stick with bolts with real washers rather than flange head??

Considering that this will process will in most cases only be done only once in the life of the transmission it surely make no difference at all. Just curious...

 

I would expect a washer to either make no difference or end up being another place for salts to accumulate and moisture to wick - you would have twice the number of gaps between the inside surface of the head and the face of the pan.

Also regarding wicking from the top of the threads, that's not something I observed on the removed fasteners, so I wouldn't think so.

 

WARNING. Do not order from this site. Billed and indicate shipped but never delivered . Indicated expidited shipping but no tracking number ever provided.
Facebook page for Thewrenchmonkey packed with not recommended posts for charges for parts never delivered..
Many BBB complaints.

 

Just confirming the bolts to hold the pan on are M6X1.0 12mm long as mentioned in previous posts.
Want to pick up some spares just in case

 

Correct.

 

Yes. Its an entirely different pan and molded rubber gasket

Not to confuse 3rd gen topics in this 2nd gen thread but for posterity sake, I see 65 in*lbf as the valve given in the 2016 FSM for AC60E.