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OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Benson X, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. Dec 6, 2013 at 2:33 AM
    #301
    Cooter1

    Cooter1 Active Member

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    Great thread!! Great idea!! Great DIY!! Thanks Benson and Thanks Mike (numerous pm's from myself).

    Looking forward to having some heated mirrors!!

    Sub'd!
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2013
  2. Dec 6, 2013 at 11:06 AM
    #302
    malay4785

    malay4785 Well-Known Member

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    Just ordered all the parts! Everything on the bottom half of the list you can find on Amazon if you prefer the PRIME! Actually ended up getting a terminal kit box (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZBAIYQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which i believe has everything except the sumitomo terminals and the quick splices.

    Gonna dry assemble everything and just tap it into the fuse box to see if i get some heat before I attempt to dismantle the mirrors and panels. Hopefully everything comes in so I can try this next weekend!
     
  3. Dec 13, 2013 at 12:43 PM
    #303
    dumbassdave

    dumbassdave Active Member

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    I was another one who spend a ton of time trying to figure out why my mirrors weren't heating up. Finally determined that the switch that I received wasn't working.

    Here is a simple way to test out your switch. Pin 5 gets 12V. Pin 4 is the switched ground. Pin 3 goes to ground. Once you have 12v going to pin 5 and pin 3 is grounded, put your meter on 3 and 4 and check for continuity. Check that you don't have continuity before the switch is pressed (in this case the mirrors would always be heated). If you get continuity when switch is pressed, your switch is fine

    Ben Gonzales at oemtoyotascionparts.com was awesome to deal with. All I had to do was send the switch back and he sent out a new one.

    Thanks to all those that did all the work on getting this mod set up.
     
  4. Dec 13, 2013 at 12:48 PM
    #304
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    That is crazy how many switches have turned out to be defective. I'm glad you got it sorted out, but it makes me wonder the integrity/quality of the Highlander switch itself (granted we are using it in a slightly different scenario than intended).

    Thanks for posting up an easy way for people to test it before-hand! :thumbsup:

    That should hopefully avoid some premature baldness for some guys :D
     
  5. Dec 15, 2013 at 5:22 PM
    #305
    MikeyMcFly

    MikeyMcFly This is heavy, Doc.

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    Has anyone extended the USB/Aux mount and relocated it somewhere else in the dash/console? It's not ideal, but I wouldn't mind even placing it inside my center console.

    I'd love to do this modification, but I have the switch blanks under the HVAC filled already, and having an OR, I can't go to the left of the wheel.
     
  6. Dec 16, 2013 at 10:03 AM
    #306
    malay4785

    malay4785 Well-Known Member

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    Did anyone use the quicksplices when they tapped into the two dimmer illumination wires under the dash? I pre-wired everything I could, only wiring left to do is under the dash but wanted to see if doing the quicksplices would be an option.

    Thanks
     
  7. Dec 16, 2013 at 10:13 AM
    #307
    Jeffvt0508

    Jeffvt0508 Well-Known Member

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  8. Dec 16, 2013 at 11:19 AM
    #308
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    I haven't done it, but I don't think it would be difficult at all.

    Just extend the leads and cut some squares in your console (or wherever you decide to mount them). Take some pics, and maybe start a thread about relocating them :thumbsup:

    Here are a few "similar" threads:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/286724-how-move-usb-plug-console-aux-intact.html
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-relocated-extended-cable-aux-audio-port.html
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/177642-usb-aux-input-12v-outlet-console-write-up.html


    I soldered them and used some Quick-Connect terminals to unplug if needed.

    You should be able to use QuickSplices no problem, just make sure you get the right size, since the Illum. Wires are either 18 or 20 AWG (they are skinny little guys).
     
  9. Dec 16, 2013 at 12:21 PM
    #309
    malay4785

    malay4785 Well-Known Member

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    Not a bad idea if you need to add/remove. I saw from the pics they are tinly lil fella's. I'll prob do quicksplice to male/female terminals as a safety as well. Thank you much. Also, have you ever opened up the Highlander switch? I did (why I am still asking myself) and when I did, there was a small copper L shaped piece that fell out. I didnt see where it fell out from, but im assuming its the contact point that gets pushed into the switch when you press the button. Placement is right above the spring when you open up the innards of the box to reveal the timer circuit board. Hopefully it works when I put it all together.

     
  10. Dec 16, 2013 at 12:53 PM
    #310
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    I didn't disassemble the switch, so unfortunately I can't help with finding where the L piece goes. The only thing I did was swap the green bulb for amber.

    I hope you are able to get it back together correctly.
     
  11. Dec 17, 2013 at 6:22 AM
    #311
    malay4785

    malay4785 Well-Known Member

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    Me too. once I splice the illumination wires and dry assemble everything, ill see if the switch works, and if not ill swap out for another switch somewhere in my switchbank to see if its the switch or wiring. Too cold to do anything outside right now though, will have to wait for a few more days :/
     
  12. Dec 17, 2013 at 6:27 AM
    #312
    malay4785

    malay4785 Well-Known Member

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    If you check out the bottom of the first post here:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/92593-jsenclosures-build-thread-3.html

    He put in a switch bank in his center console and ran the wiring there. You could do something similar.
     
  13. Dec 29, 2013 at 7:39 PM
    #313
    timmyedge

    timmyedge Well-Known Member

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  14. Dec 29, 2013 at 7:55 PM
    #314
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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    One of the best DIY thread on TW :thumbsup:
     
  15. Jan 4, 2014 at 7:33 PM
    #315
    DannyD

    DannyD Well-Known Member

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    Is it possible to run this relay with no switch? By tapping into an iggnition wire would this run the mirrors for 15 min every time you start the truck? This is what I want, too many switches
     
  16. Jan 4, 2014 at 10:22 PM
    #316
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    No

    The switch IS the timer. Doing as you say will keep the heat on full time.. even in the summer.

    I doubt a heated mirror will last forever, so i would'nt do it like that.

    A relay just keeps high amps/voltage away from a switch. If relays were never invented, we would have massive battery cables going to an ignition switch in the steering column to start a vehicle.... very impractical.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2014
  17. Jan 5, 2014 at 11:32 PM
    #317
    AznTaco

    AznTaco Member

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    Good to know, I was wondering the same thing about having it tied into the ignition without a switch. One of the next projects on my list and hope the electrical part goes easier this time :eek:
     
  18. Jan 12, 2014 at 9:50 PM
    #318
    DannyD

    DannyD Well-Known Member

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    posted this question to the guys who make the relay. They suggested their other relay that can have the time adjusted and connected directly to an ignition power source. So turn the truck on and have the mirrors run for 2 min and then shut off. Would be a pain for real cold areas because you couldnt reset the timer without turning the truck off and on. But for me I think it would be enough.

    "Hi Dan,

    Thank you for your interest! We have had several customers ask about using our relays with heated mirrors, and the standard response it to use the TDR-PMLC, as it has a delay time adjustable up to 30 minutes, can be set to turn on immediately with a momentary pushbutton switch, and can be prematurely cancelled by pressing the pushbutton again before the turn-off delay is finished. A lighted pushbutton switch, or a separate indicator light, can be connected to the relay's output to show the mirror heaters are on. This duplicates the way heated mirrors and rear defoggers are normally set up in cars from the factory, where a pushbutton with indicator light is provided to turn on the defogger or mirrors, and it will time out after 20 minutes or so, or turn off early if you press the button again.

    However, if you just want the mirrors to turn on every time you turn on the truck, without any pushbutton at all, that can be done with our TDR-PML relay. It's the same as the above but without the "cancel" function. Just wire it up as follows:
    terminal connects to
    G ground
    +12 ignition-switched +12V source
    L output to positive lead of mirrors (can also connect indicator light)
    1 +12 terminal
    2 unused

    Note: if the mirrors use more than 5A each, you'll need to use a secondary power relay. A typical 30A Bosch-style relay, available from any auto parts store for $5-10, is sufficient. Just connect the TDR-PML's 'L' terminal to the '85' terminal on the relay (one side of its coil), the '86' terminal to ground, '30' to +12V, and '87' to the mirrors.

    The TDR-PML is available here:
    http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/tdr-m.php

    Hope this helps!
    Dan

    Daniel Wolstenholme

    Tel: 480-620-0348
    Email: support@wolstentech.com"
     
  19. Jan 13, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #319
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Great info Dan! Thanks for posting this.

    It seems the Wolstentech TDR-PML Relay will work as a stand-alone timer relay for those who want a "switchless" ignition controlled circuit.

    I would recommend if you go this route, to set the time-delay to 5-10 minutes (rather than 2 minutes). Depending on how cold it is, and what you are trying to "burn off", it will likely take longer than 2 minutes to fully heat up and clear the mirrors.
     
  20. Jan 28, 2014 at 1:45 PM
    #320
    schwangster

    schwangster Well-Known Member

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    Installing mine today. Going well.
    But it leads me to wonder how much did Toyota save by NOT running 2 wires inside the mirrors? Like they do with the fog light wiring when there is no fog lights on the truck. Just crazy that you have to rip the cab apart and fish wires like this.
    But close to being finished. Should have a few pics.
     
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